'99 Ranger swap donor questions

[JoshT]

Collecting parts to eventually do the 5.0 swap on my newer Ranger. It's a '99 Ranger 4.0L 4x4. I am aware of the disadvantages, but I actually want to go AWD on it. I've read the tech article and copied the relevant information below.

1999-2001 Explorer	ABS/VSS from Rear Axle	No Fuel Return Line (Returnless) (56-72 PSI)	Type B
1998 Explorer	VSS in Transmission/Transfer Case	Fuel Return Line (35-45 PSI)	Type B
1999-2000 Ranger	ABS/VSS from Rear Axle	No Fuel Return Line (Returnless) (56-72 PSI)	Type B

I have a 1998 Explorer 5.0 2wd drivetrain with a wiring harness that has been modified for standalone. Was going to use in a first gen Ranger that never happened.

A 1999 Mountaineer 5.0 popped up on the local Facebook marketplace. Not running, partially disassembled, and key is missing. Supposedly has a damaged wire harness ("Rat got into it") and I don't know if 2wd or AWD.

Ideally the Mounty will be AWD, the part of the harness I need is good, and I can just drop all of it in. If it's 2wd would it be as easy as getting an AWD transmission and transfer case to swap in?

If I don't end up with the whole Mounty, what parts from it would I need for my '98 Exp drivetrain to make this near plug and play on my '99 Ranger?

I know I'd need fuel system to convert it to returnless. What about wiring and stuff? Is there a difference in the harness or computers between the two years? Could I use the 99 harness with the 98 engine, transmission, and computer?

 

[JoshT]

Well the Mounty sold before I got off work. I'm not near being ready for it, but was going to take advantage of a good price and location. Still will if the right deal appears.

As I said in the above post, I already have a 1998 Explorer 5.0L 2wd drivetrain sitting here unused. I got to thinking, since I've got time anyway, why not start collecting parts to convert and use that drivetrain. If I get everything great, if I find a donor first, it'll be spare parts.

I know that there are probably several fuel system differences between the 98 and 99 Explorers, but since it's going into a Ranger I'm only concerned with the engine end. As shown in the previous post, the 98 Explorer is a fuel return system, while the 99+ is returnless. Seeing as my 99 Ranger is returnless, it would be easier to go with the returnless system from the 99+ Explorers. I would assume that also comes with tuning and possible wiring changes.

Making the changes on the engine and electrical is easier and better, since it can be prepared for the truck while the truck is still in operation. I'd need to replace the engine harness anyway since I cut it down into a standalone EFI system for a swap project that never happened. I was probably going to end up using this engine and transmission in my truck anyway. I'm going to (re)build the engine and transmission before swapping them in and these are already out.

So how much do I need to convert a 98 Explorer 5.0L to 99 Explorer 5.0L specifications? I know I'll need fuel rail to convert the fuel system to returnless. I assume that I would need to 99 ECU to account for the tuning differences between the fuel systems. Possibly need the 99 main engine harness to go with the ECU. Anything else?

 

[bobbywalter]

in 2023.


ms3 or holley.....even a killshot or fitech.


holley is killing it right now as direct injection and vvt is coming online and the community and support is fairly broad.. the hemi stuff is awesome.

running a 300 dollar engine with a 1500 dollar system seems insane.... but the cleanliness of the system and the user interface capacity is monstrous and pays huge dividends as you progress in power. you buy huge injectors now and your done untill they are worn out. just dealing with injector and tune matching on a 302 if you dont have a cost effective dyno tuner available is a nightmare now....they just dont deal with that stuff anymore.

15 or 20 years ago i would just run the oem stuff. but its too old and unreliable now. and for what is available today the 5.0 is really weak.


in your neck of the woods finding clean usable 5.0 stuff is definitely possible ... so if you are just going to live with stock power simply match your system eec calibration to fuel system.

pats delete. https://www.garretttuning.com/products/ford-pats-delete-service-1996-2004-eec-v



but consider this...if you plan to make power.

Terminator X MPFI Kit for Ford V8 302, Windsor & Big Block Engines

What's Terminator X?Holley's Terminator X family of EFI Systems are standalone engine management systems that closely replicate some of Holley's most advanced engine management systems but at a much more budget-friendly price. This PDF gives a highly detailed comparison of the Terminator X and X

www.efisystempro.com

i like the system for sure. fired right up and dialed in enough to get rolling in a few minutes. but it needs fine tuning for good mpg...

 

[rubydist]

The "returnless" fuel system still has a return - the fuel filter has 3 ports - in, out, and return. Fuel gets pumped to the fuel filter and as much as the engine is using goes out to the engine, and the rest is returned to the tank. So the difference in the systems is pretty simple - the fuel pump in the tank has the pressure regulator incorporated into it. The fuel rail on the engine no longer has the regulator or the return line fitting. The important difference is that the injectors flow different amounts of fuel at the 60psi than they do at 35psi, so you need the correct pressure for the pcm.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I converted a 98 Explorer 5.0 to a 2000 and there are some differences. I asked why I couldn’t just run a return line and run the 98 in my 00 and I was never really satisfied with just being told that’s not going to work with no explanation. But I was offered the parts needed to convert it in exchange for what came off the 98 so I figured that was worth it. Wiring harness, PCM, injectors, fuel rail, cam synchronizer assembly, and I think I’m forgetting something else all are different.

I got the Explorer PATS module and ignition cylinder with keys but didn’t use it. I used Forscan on my laptop to make it work. Soon as I hooked it up it asked me if I replaced something because of the theft being tripped and there was an option in the PATS module to program whatever you replaced so I just said I replaced the PCM and it did it’s voodoo magic and after cycling the ignition once at the end of it, I was good to go.

 

[JoshT]

ms3 or holley.....even a killshot or fitech.


holley is killing it right now as direct injection and vvt is coming online and the community and support is fairly broad.. the hemi stuff is awesome.

running a 300 dollar engine with a 1500 dollar system seems insane.... but the cleanliness of the system and the user interface capacity is monstrous and pays huge dividends as you progress in power. you buy huge injectors now and your done untill they are worn out. just dealing with injector and tune matching on a 302 if you dont have a cost effective dyno tuner available is a nightmare now....they just dont deal with that stuff anymore.

in your neck of the woods finding clean usable 5.0 stuff is definitely possible ... so if you are just going to live with stock power simply match your system eec calibration to fuel system.

I haven't decided on a power target. Not looking for stupid amounts of power, just something that would be fun as an AWD on 27-30" street tires and still capable of relatively decent effeciency. If I install my engine as it sits the stock EFI would do fine. It's high miles, but internally appears to be in good shape. Stock Explorer engine with upgraded valve springs, higher ratio rockers, and headers. It has been suggested that this would be similar to a stock Fox body 5.0L in power levels. I've honestly never driven a stock Explorer 5.0L or a Fox 5.0L to know what either would be like.

I've got a Holley Sniper system on a 30+ year old, well worn FE. I'm not afraid of it, but for this I would rather have the bolt in simplicity and stock appearance of the Explorer EFI system. That's not to say I won't change my mind before it happens, or that I won't change my mind after it gets built.

I wish that someone made a PnP MS system similar to the PiMP system that would bolt right in place of the factory ECU and connect to the OEM wiring harness. If they still sold the DIY MS kits I could probably source the parts to do it, but at current that it a bigger project than I care to tackle, especially for the first time I'd ever be touching that type of work.

The "returnless" fuel system still has a return - the fuel filter has 3 ports - in, out, and return. Fuel gets pumped to the fuel filter and as much as the engine is using goes out to the engine, and the rest is returned to the tank. So the difference in the systems is pretty simple - the fuel pump in the tank has the pressure regulator incorporated into it. The fuel rail on the engine no longer has the regulator or the return line fitting. The important difference is that the injectors flow different amounts of fuel at the 60psi than they do at 35psi, so you need the correct pressure for the pcm.

I know, I'd rather match the fuel system to the truck, so that I don't have to run the extra fuel line. From someone that has doen it on another forum that I can use the 98 ECU with the returnless system. Apparently the key is to change not jsut to the 99+ fuel rail, but also the 99+ fuel injectors. Apparently the 98 injectors are rated for 19lb/hr at the 35 psi, while the 98+ injectors are rated for 19lb/hr at 60 psi. So when the injectors are kept with their respective fuel rails, they have same flow rate. I'm probably failing at that explination, as much as I'm failing at the spelling tonight.

Regardless of how poorly I'm explaining it, the information comes from Jamie (410Fortune) over on Explorer Froums and he's got a lot of experience with these swaps. I trust him a lot more that I trust my ability to relay what he told me.

Finding a 99-01 donor is still my preferred route.

I got the Explorer PATS module and ignition cylinder with keys but didn’t use it. I used Forscan on my laptop to make it work. Soon as I hooked it up it asked me if I replaced something because of the theft being tripped and there was an option in the PATS module to program whatever you replaced so I just said I replaced the PCM and it did it’s voodoo magic and after cycling the ignition once at the end of it, I was good to go.

Thank you for that information!

I have a 98 Explorer 5.0L harness and PCM which are compatible with the 99 Ranger's PATS system, but I know I did not save any of the PATS equipment since I wasn't planning to use it in the first gen swap. (Also have 98 ECM with PATS deleted.) I had been wondering about the possibility of using Forscan to overcome the PATS issue. I had seen that Forscan could be used to program and delete PATS keys, but I was unsure if it a working key was required to initiate the process. This is great since I already have the equipment to use Forscan.

Next problem is, I don't remember how much of the 98 5.0L I butchered to make a standalone EFI system. I don't recall if I left the engine side of the harness intact and only modified the vehicle side, or if I stripped unneeded stuff out of both sides. that was several years ago and at the time I was planning to swap this drivetrain into an 86 Ranger. If I didn't touch the engine side, I'm set. If I did, I might be looking for a harness regardless.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I can walk you through what I did, but it was really pretty simple. I had the parts, but I didn’t want a different ignition and door key (I’m actually trying to find a way to make a newer key that has a fob built in to work so I can just carry the key and not a key and fob). I also didn’t want to dig into my dash for the PATS module. When we did the 5.0 swap on dad’s Ranger, I had a heck of a time finding a dealer to program it to work. Almost every dealer within 30 miles wanted to know why it needed programmed and when I admitted to swapping in a 5.0, they refused to touch it. The one that was willing specifically said that it was (at the time) $115 to program and they couldn’t promise it would work for that price. That was all prior to me having Forscan. And that dealer is also no longer in existence.

I figured it was worth a shot and was really surprised when I plugged in my laptop and turned the ignition to on with one of my keys from before the swap and Forscan brought up a thing that asked if I replaced a component and told me exactly what to do. When I followed the instructions and went into the PATS section it asked me what component I replaced. Selected PCM and it did some stuff and told me to cycle the ignition and it was done. Suuuper painless. And just like that all of my keys were functional, I didn’t have to delete keys out of the PCM and reprogram all of mine, it was like I never changed anything.

 

[JoshT]

(I’m actually trying to find a way to make a newer key that has a fob built in to work so I can just carry the key and not a key and fob).

I would assume that you are talking about a flip style key? IIRC I've come across "conversion" keys before when searching the internet. I think the issue with using the was that the ig ition switch has a guard built which wouldn't fit the fob portion of the key.

I think I've also seen some where it is t a flip key, and just looks like a key molded into a key fob.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I would assume that you are talking about a flip style key? IIRC I've come across "conversion" keys before when searching the internet. I think the issue with using the was that the ig ition switch has a guard built which wouldn't fit the fob portion of the key.

I think I've also seen some where it is t a flip key, and just looks like a key molded into a key fob.

Flip key would be cool, but no, I got a non-flip key that has the fob. And yes, the ignition switch guard blocks these keys from fitting. I originally thought about trying to heat and re-shape the guard, but I think the type of plastic used doesn’t lend itself to that.

My other two thoughts were to see if I could switch to a cylinder that would permit these keys or to carefully trim the guard to allow it.

 

[JoshT]

Flip key would be cool, but no, I got a non-flip key that has the fob. And yes, the ignition switch guard blocks these keys from fitting. I originally thought about trying to heat and re-shape the guard, but I think the type of plastic used doesn’t lend itself to that.

My other two thoughts were to see if I could switch to a cylinder that would permit these keys or to carefully trim the guard to allow it.

Yeah, that seems to be the two options.

I was thinking of trying to trim the guard myself, I'll probably save the one from my parts truck to experiment with.

I haven't seen an option without the guard, but it would be a great solution if one were found.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, that seems to be the two options.

I was thinking of trying to trim the guard myself, I'll probably save the one from my parts truck to experiment with.

I haven't seen an option without the guard, but it would be a great solution if one were found.

I was going to do some digging and poking around on the places I buy locksmithing stuff from. Bad thing is, pre-Covid you could get nearly anything. Now a lot of stuff is straight gone. I had a talk a year or so ago with one of the companies I buy locksmithing stuff from and he said that a lot of stuff is straight up not available, a few things went absolutely stupid in price so they stopped carrying it (I’m talking like from $10 to $110), and a lot of stuff went to back ordered by 6+ months. So I don’t have a whole lot of confidence that I can find much, but it’s on the list to try and figure out. I was trying to get the truck on the road before working out details like that, so it’s been put on the back burner.