R***A**N**G**E***R
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2009
- Messages
- 475
- Reaction score
- 12
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
According to this article the auto locking hubs are NOT suppose to have grease in them but all the auto hubs I have ever seen are full of grease
Anyways what is the best way to get all the grease removed with out RUINING the little bearing that they spin on? In other words if I take some brake cleaner or diesel or carb cleaner ETC ETC and fill the hub up and get all the grease out won't that ( RUIN ) the little bearing that sits at the bottom? or is it a sealed bearing? If it's not a sealed bearing,well,then the CLEANER will also remove the grease that keeps the little bearing functional. Is this making sense??
Here is the article from the ranger station that says there should be ( NO GREASE ) basically anywhere inside the hub or the cam. Is this write up wrong or have people been MISTAKENLY greasing there hubs?
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.html
Here is a quote from the article about AUTO HUBS from 1983-1997
Clean the parts off thoroughly. Then do a visual inspection for cracks, chips, bends, stripped threads and the such. The weakest link in the automatic hub is the plastic cam. Check the teeth for breaking, shaving, rounded edges, grease, etc (See Illustration 1-1). There shouldn't be any grease on the teeth which could make it slip during engagement. Inspect the splines for wear and the spacers (plastic and metal) (See Illustration 1-2).
If you encounter a loud clicking or grinding when you are attempting engagement, then it could be either the plastic cam (Illustration1-1) covered with grease, or the hub body itself is shot (Illustration 1-2). The way to test the hub body is to remove the piece from inside the cam assembly and set it on the inner side of the hub like it's supposed to go (See Illustration 1-3 and 1-4). Now when engaged, the hub receives pressure towards the cap and it locks the hub up. So, squeeze the ends of the hub together and you should feel it sink down about 3/8". At this point, try to turn the hub while still squeezing it still (See Illustration 1-5). If the hub doesn't turn, try to force it, if it still doesn't, then the body assembly is ok, if the hub still turns freely, then the hub body is shot.
Anyways what is the best way to get all the grease removed with out RUINING the little bearing that they spin on? In other words if I take some brake cleaner or diesel or carb cleaner ETC ETC and fill the hub up and get all the grease out won't that ( RUIN ) the little bearing that sits at the bottom? or is it a sealed bearing? If it's not a sealed bearing,well,then the CLEANER will also remove the grease that keeps the little bearing functional. Is this making sense??
Here is the article from the ranger station that says there should be ( NO GREASE ) basically anywhere inside the hub or the cam. Is this write up wrong or have people been MISTAKENLY greasing there hubs?
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.html
Here is a quote from the article about AUTO HUBS from 1983-1997
Clean the parts off thoroughly. Then do a visual inspection for cracks, chips, bends, stripped threads and the such. The weakest link in the automatic hub is the plastic cam. Check the teeth for breaking, shaving, rounded edges, grease, etc (See Illustration 1-1). There shouldn't be any grease on the teeth which could make it slip during engagement. Inspect the splines for wear and the spacers (plastic and metal) (See Illustration 1-2).
If you encounter a loud clicking or grinding when you are attempting engagement, then it could be either the plastic cam (Illustration1-1) covered with grease, or the hub body itself is shot (Illustration 1-2). The way to test the hub body is to remove the piece from inside the cam assembly and set it on the inner side of the hub like it's supposed to go (See Illustration 1-3 and 1-4). Now when engaged, the hub receives pressure towards the cap and it locks the hub up. So, squeeze the ends of the hub together and you should feel it sink down about 3/8". At this point, try to turn the hub while still squeezing it still (See Illustration 1-5). If the hub doesn't turn, try to force it, if it still doesn't, then the body assembly is ok, if the hub still turns freely, then the hub body is shot.