Axle Shaft Seal Replacement 8.8

[Tractor Dan]

Truck starts leaking in July. Got it towed home and parked it. I have looked and for sure have to do the pinion flange seal and the axle shaft seals. Also found that the brakes need done and new drums. Gonna do the diff cover gasket while i'm there. So basically doing everything but wheel bearings unless i have to do those and for sure i'm not messing with the ring and pinion. That's the whole reason i swapped the axle in back in 2010. It was all set up and i just had to swap and go.

So my main question is how hard is it to get to and get that cross pin out? I'm sure i can do it i'm just not seeing how it comes out. I see in the tech article there is pictures but i'm trying to figure out where it sits in there? I'm sure once i get it all opened up it will be the light bulb moment and i realize i was over thinking it. I do that a lot.

Also do yall think i should replace the wheel bearings? They seem to have no play and it seems to be just the seals are leaking so if i can do just the seals for a few dollars each versus the whole bearing/seal unit for $20+ each i would rather go the cheaper route. Especially if it gets me back up and running. I generally do bearings and seals at the same time but figure if the bearings are solid why mess with what isn't busted.

Also the axle is in a 97 but the axle is actually out of i believe a 98 or 99. I know that shouldn't make a difference but it does when it comes to buying brake drums so i thought i would throw that info in.

 

[adsm08]

The king pin has a little bolt in one end that has to come out. Sometimes they are a bugger and strip. I'd have a new one on hand since they are pretty cheap. Once the "Jesus bolt" is out if the pin doesn't fall out just rock one of the wheels a little and it should drop.

You should not need to mess with the bearings. They aren't a typical wear/failure item like front ones since they are lubricated by the axle lube. Also, don't bother with an actual gasket on the cover. At one point they did come with a paper gasket that had to be sealed with RTV. Now Ford says to just put RTV on the cover and go. I have seen fewer cover leaks on unit with just the silicone and no paper gasket.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize the gasket could be gone without. I'll have to be sure to have that bolt on hand. I'm one of those people who Murphy's Law was written about.

One other question that came to mind. I'm ordering a new pinion flange going on the assumption mine is grooved and the flange is cheaper than the sleeve kit. When i go to tighten the nut for the new flange do i just tighten it to the same preload torque that was on the old nut? I know if the flange is reused you tighten it to whatever preload you measure before pulling the flange off but wasn't sure if it's a new flange and nut.

 

[4x4junkie]

You can tighten it the same, only thing is with a new flange though, any previous marks you've made on the pinion nut before taking it off will likely not line up the same, so you'll have to go by the bearing preload (rotating) torque alone (chances are you'll probably wind up somewhere around 150-200ft-lbs on the pinion nut, but check your bearing preload frequently (needs to be about 8-15 inch-lbs). If you overshoot it, you'll need to get a new crush sleeve for the pinion).

 

[Tractor Dan]

Ok. I may play it safe and buy the flange local. I was gonna buy it all from rock auto. Love that place makes projects affordable. Atleast if i buy the flange local and don't need it i can return it rather than pay to ship it back and whatnot. That and autozone sells the same brand of flange so not sacrificing part quality. I may just play it safe and order a spare crush sleeve or two. I know they are rather cheap so wouldn't be out much extra.