Beginner With A Ranger

[AutoRnD]

I wanted to start a new thread so I can organize my posts a little better. I'm still not too comfortable with what goes where because it always goes off topic. Not that I mind that but it would be better if I could keep it all in one thread which probably isn't realistic. I want to post regular updates about what I've done but they won't be anything exciting just regular maintenance and troubleshooting so that's another reason I want to keep it specific because I can see how most members just won't be interested.

 

[ericbphoto]

You're on the right track. Many of us have a "build thread" that is just what you described. It's a place to document what we do to a truck and keep all the info together in one thread where you can keep track of it. As you ask questions, those questions and answers are there. It's a great tool for you and it helps the rest of us follow along.

When people ask questions in New threads all the time, sometimes duplicating the same question in several forums, it gets very confusing.

My build thread for my 93 Splash is linked in my signature below.it is in the "1983-2011 Off-Road & 4x4 Ford Ranger's" forum. That would be a good place for yours. You can start one there. Or, if you want, one of us moderators can move this thread to that forum for you.

 

[AutoRnD]

The way the Ranger looked when it was gifted to me:

Front

Engine Bay

Back

Driver's side

Passenger side

Forgot to get a decent picture of this side but it's just a few small dents and some paint damage. The driver's side is much worse.

Since it was given to me I've made some small changes though since I'm a beginner and really kind of learning this as I go along I feel like I've done some BIG changes because in the past before signing up for this site or getting the truck, I would have never tried these things.

Some of the changes I've made that aren't worth pictures:

-Headlight bulbs (Sylvania)
-A few fuses (Autozone)
-Installed new hood cushion pins (Amazon)
-Radiator Cap (Duralast-Autozone)
-Air Filter (WIX-Amazon)
-Cruise Control Switches (Amazon)
-License Plate Holder (Amazon)

Other changes I've made that are slightly more interesting:

-I put a can of Seafoam into the throttle body

This is the throttle body before:

After:

-Also cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve?

IACV:

-Installed a bed liner (Duraliner-Junkyard)

Bed liner:

(Sorry for the constant image size changes. Some pictures were taken a while back and I'm just now organizing it all)

-Removed the chrome trim from the fenders

Fender(Forgot to take pictures of all four):

I really haven't done a lot but I want to do it all. I don't have experience in any of it but I will learn.

The next step for me other than learning a few things for the distant future are:

-Oil change
-Brake flush
-Change rear brakes
-Change thermostat

I've said it in another post but I will again, thanks to you guys I'm building courage. It wouldn't have happened if I never signed up.

Eventually I want to perform all possible flushes to get any contaminants that I can out. Actually that's some of the first things I want to do. If you guys know of anything simple enough for someone like me to perform please share.

Right now... I'm having trouble diagnosing something I have two rattle's going on. I nicknamed my Ranger The Rattlesnake when I first got it. There's an urge to remove the catalytic converter. I did a bit of research and I think I have a damaged catalytic converter. I do not want to remove it completely but is it safe to simply remove it then drive it up the block to see if I still get a rattle and put it back on until I get a new one? Then the other rattle I THINK are loose U-Bolts? I sound like Santa Claus coming around the corner. Let the sleigh bells ring!

Most of you may have seen all this information before but I just wanted to sort it out so I can have some direction and hopefully help people follow what I've been doing a little easier.

 

[AutoRnD]

You're on the right track. Many of us have a "build thread" that is just what you described. It's a place to document what we do to a truck and keep all the info together in one thread where you can keep track of it. As you ask questions, those questions and answers are there. It's a great tool for you and it helps the rest of us follow along.

When people ask questions in New threads all the time, sometimes duplicating the same question in several forums, it gets very confusing.

My build thread for my 93 Splash is linked in my signature below.it is in the "1983-2011 Off-Road & 4x4 Ford Ranger's" forum. That would be a good place for yours. You can start one there. Or, if you want, one of us moderators can move this thread to that forum for you.

Please place it where it belongs. I was posting while you answered my first post. I didn't get to read it yet before I posted my last.

 

[ericbphoto]

Is it RWD or 4x4?

 

[AutoRnD]

1995 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 RWD

 

[AutoRnD]

OK! In the correct zone. Now where were we? Right, as I'm typing this I'm about to get under and see if I can't remove this catalytic converter...

Well that was disappointing. I'm a damn noob so I don't have the tools. However, I did find this:

Some sort of tag? Is it supposed to be like the one on the differential?

It was lodged between the catalytic converter(I hope that's what it was) and this sort of heat shield:

I was able to move it with my finger and pulled it with some pliers.

I'm going to take it down the street and see if that solved it. Other than than I ran I to this under there:

In the picture below there's moisture on the nuts of the oil pan:
(If the pictures suck it's because I don't have a jack yet so they're really up close)

Is that amount of moisture normal or should it be bone dry? Truck as been off for an hour and 30 minutes. Also what exactly is that? A sensor?

 

[scotts90ranger]

That thing in the last part is the speed sensor that sends the transmission output shaft speed to the speedometer...

 

[ericbphoto]

In the middle picture, it appears we are looking from the rear towards the front. Over to the left, with some wires coming out, is the driver side (bank 2?) Upstream Oxygen sensor. Thats mounted on the exhaust pipe from that side. To the right of that is the transmission shift linkage. The pan we see in the foreground is the bottom transmission cover. The engine oil pan will be further forward. It's not really seen in this picture.

Although there is some oil leakage occurring somewhere, it doesn't look too bad, in my opinion. It would be good to get everything clean with a good degreaser. Clean all the way to the top of the engine as best you can. Once everything is relatively clean, you can start watching to see where leaks are coming from. Even though the bottom of the engine and transmission are oily, that could be dripping, running, seeping or oozing from much higher places, lime valve covers, which are known to cause messes lime this over time.

The cleaning can be a tiring and long job. But it's necessary. I'm going through the same thing on a 2002 7.3l powerstroke diesel in an F250 that has not been properly maintained. It's much, much, much dirtier than what you're looking at. It has up to 3/8" thick layer of oily, grimy dirt all over the bottom half of the engine, transmission, frame, etc. My other build thread;

2002 F250 diesel - discovery and build thread.

The 7.3 Powerstroke can see 20k psi injection pressure or slightly higher. That’s before modifying everything. 20k!!! That explains a lot. This is a whole different beast from the older 1990 7.3l I had years ago.

www.therangerstation.com

 

[AutoRnD]

In the middle picture, it appears we are looking from the rear towards the front. Over to the left, with some wires coming out, is the driver side (bank 2?) Upstream Oxygen sensor. Thats mounted on the exhaust pipe from that side. To the right of that is the transmission shift linkage. The pan we see in the foreground is the bottom transmission cover. The engine oil pan will be further forward. It's not really seen in this picture.

Although there is some oil leakage occurring somewhere, it doesn't look too bad, in my opinion. It would be good to get everything clean with a hood degreaser. Clean all the way it to the top of the engine as best you can. Once everything is relatively clean, you can start watching to see where leaks are coming from. Even though the bottom of the engine and transmission are oily, that could be dripping, running, seeping or oozing from much higher places, lime valve covers, which are known to cause messes lime this over time.

The cleaning can be a tiring and long job. But it's necessary. I'm going through the same thing on a 2002 7.3l powerstroke diesel in an F250 that has not been properly maintained. It's much, much, much dirtier than what you're looking at. It has up to 3/8" thick layer of oily, grimy dirt all over the bottom half of the engine, transmission, frame, etc. My other build thread;

2002 F250 diesel - discovery and build thread.

The 7.3 Powerstroke can see 20k psi injection pressure or slightly higher. That’s before modifying everything. 20k!!! That explains a lot. This is a whole different beast from the older 1990 7.3l I had years ago.

www.therangerstation.com

Oh man, there's definitely some work ahead. Lol. So with "hood cleaner" I can clean most of the components? I was going to ask soon what I could use. I had this Blaster spray but it say to keep away from heat and electrical parts but I was told I could clean harnesses with it to get them to seat so it's a bit confusing.

Blaster:

I like doing the excessive things that most wouldn't care to do and if I get to the point where I can have a nice paint job on it, I want to keep it "spoiled" with all the extra maintenance.

 

[ericbphoto]

I corrected my spelling error about the "hood cleaner". I don't think I would use that particular Blaster product as a cleaner. As a lubricant, it's job is to leave oily residue for lubrication. You want an engine degreaser product. You could also use brake cleaner. But that might get expensive, plus, you don't really want it dripping on you while you're cleaning underneath. Plus the fumes aren't great.

Last week, I bought a gallon of degreaser concentrate from Harbor Freight. I got an empty spray bottle and mixed the degreaser with water, just a little bit stronger that recommended. It's working good for my mess. I combine that with rags, tiny paint brush and small wire brush.

 

[AutoRnD]

I corrected my spelling error about the "hood cleaner". I don't think I would use that particular Blaster product as a cleaner. As a lubricant, it's job is to leave oily residue for lubrication. You want an engine degreaser product. You could also use brake cleaner. But that might get expensive, plus, you don't really want it dripping on you while you're cleaning underneath. Plus the fumes aren't great.

Last week, I bought a gallon of degreaser concentrate from Harbor Freight. I got an empty spray bottle and mixed the degreaser with water, just a little bit stronger that recommended. It's working good for my mess. I combine that with rags, tiny paint brush and small wire brush.

I wasn't correcting you about hood cleaner I just meant i don't have clue what it was so i quoted it. Believe me, I'm the last to be in the right to correct anyone! Sorry for the confusion.

I just realized you're the guy I have to bribe to get my truck in the calendar. Granted it's far from being a quality Ranger right now BUT I know who THE GUY is now...

 

[RobbieD]

You're off to a good start.

On the rattles, I was going to suggest checking the heat shields on the cat and exhaust, but you're already there. Good find.

The advice already given for cleaning is spot on. If the crud is really bad I usually use an aerosol degreaser like Gunk, but concetrated degreasers you mix with water are good too.

If you guys know of anything simple enough for someone like me to perform please share.

Stay on top of your cooling system mainenance. Changing the antifreeze every two years is what's recommended, as old deteriated coolant promotes corrosion of the metals in the system.

You've listed the other fluids; that's good.

Doing your own brakes is also excellent work for a concientious do-it-yourselfer.

If the interior is still pretty good (especially the dash pad), get a sun shield that's placed against the windshield, and use when you're parked. The UV (ultraviolet) in sunlight is what kills the interior.

You're coming along just fine, so cut yourself a little more slack.

 

[AutoRnD]

You're off to a good start.

On the rattles, I was going to suggest checking the heat shields on the cat and exhaust, but you're already there. Good find.

The advice already given for cleaning is spot on. If the crud is really bad I usually use an aerosol degreaser like Gunk, but concetrated degreasers you mix with water are good too.



Stay on top of your cooling system mainenance. Changing the antifreeze every two years is what's recommended, as old deteriated coolant promotes corrosion of the metals in the system.

You've listed the other fluids; that's good.

Doing your own brakes is also excellent work for a concientious do-it-yourselfer.

If the interior is still pretty good (especially the dash pad), get a sun shield that's placed against the windshield, and use when you're parked. The UV (ultraviolet) in sunlight is what kills the interior.

You're coming along just fine, so cut yourself a little more slack.

You are one of the more supportive members I appreciate. Thank you so much. You guys teach me things I would have never thought about.

 

[Josh B]

When you're at that parts yard look around some old Rangers, Explorers or just Fords in general and try to find a couple of the factory jacks, as well as the handles used to turn them.
They should be under 10 bucks each, handle and all. Before covid they were 2.50 where I got my spares, I have 4 or 5 of them.
If you can find one piece handles get those, and once you learn how to use them you'll be glad you did. Those kind are usually under the hood on a Ranger, right across the radiator. The jack in a Ranger may be behind the passenger seat, under the flip-up seat on a Super-cab