Best bolt on mods?

[AllanD]

Underdrive pullies are a joke because of what MAKG said, particularly in
regards to the alternator, if you spin it more slowly the regulator will
simply increase the field current to compensate and it'll actually INCREASE the drag.

The power steering pump has a relief valve so at any reasonable engine rpm
you would be going straight and when the steering isn't being exerted you
could spin the pump wiht your fingertip.

On RBV's '94 and up the A/C system uses a cycling clutch, meaning the
compressor is intentionally cycled on and off with a pressure switch and
the cycling rate changes depending on the rat of evaporation in the
evaporator core.

On a 4.0 if you don't have 4.10's switch to them

The guys with 4.0SOHC's that have 4.10's usually complain less
about fuel economy than the guy's with 3.55's or 3.73s

Headers are ALWAYS more effective than most other mods
COMBINED (excepting gears), but few people are willing to
spend the price on headers.

I'm convinced that my 4.10 geared 5sp 4.0OHV with Borla headers would
hand out whoop-ass in large servings to ALL of the 5.0 (Non-HO)
converted Rangers I've driven. (to date I've driven four
different 5.0 conversions and one SBC conversion)

As for cold air intakes? you already have one and the companies that make aftermarket Cold-air intake systems exaggerate the effect they
give (IF claiming a gain when no gain is made can be described as "exaggeration")

Any any idea that there would be a gain from "Greater flow" presumes that the manufacturer would intentionally choke the engine
with the airfilter system (not bloody likely) which would cause emmissions problems.


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[Ranger44]

I agree that 4.10 gearing is a very good choice. That and learning where the best power curve is for your engine and shifting accordingly. Have the gears set up, or even just pull a different axle from a junk yard with 4.10's in it. You'll be happier and be way under budget, save the rest.

 

[racsan]

what tire size would effectivly turn my 3.73's to 4.10's? seems a set of tires/used rims would be a way to go rather than spend time/money on a gear change, and if it doesnt lead up to expectations its quick and easy (in comparison to a gear change) to change back to stock size tires. or would it just look stupid having tiny tires in wheelwells that had 235-15's stock ?(and 265's were a factory available size). im not sure if 4.10s would be enough and 4.56 is quite a jump. (plus you know id have to put a lock-rite or detroit locker in there while im in there)
________
Ford Ranger EV history

 

[MAKG]

If you're at stock height, you can put 31 inch tires in there, and 3.73s will turn them just fine. 3.54s are not bad with a 4.0L, but not great either.

I believe the stock 265s are 30 inch tires. Someone with the charts can look it up.

You're underestimating the effect of a gear change. 3.73s to 4.56s is 20%. A comparable tire size is from stock 29 inch to 35 inches.

 

[motoxchamp]

Man how about you get the dang truck first? This guy changes what he wants on each reply... to the point of being silly...

"I'm looking to do some mods to my 4.0 sohc manual ranger. I don't own one yet but I'm trying to figure out how much I will be spending."

I bought a ranger like two days after making that post. I'm still going with the udp system and e fans and a bahma chip. Oh and yes factories do intentionally choke their engines. Perple gain power from headers, exhaust, and intake too (though it may not be much). On my motorcycles and quads an aftermarket K&N intake makes a big difference.

 

[Bob Ayers]

I bought a ranger like two days after making that post. I'm still going with the udp system and e fans and a bahma chip. Oh and yes factories do intentionally choke their engines. Perple gain power from headers, exhaust, and intake too (though it may not be much). On my motorcycles and quads an aftermarket K&N intake makes a big difference.

Don't forget your Tornado, and Splitfire spark plugs!!

 

[gw33gp]

I tow a race car all over the country with my 4.0 SOHC engine. The first thing I did was install a Gibson single swept cat back exhaust. I did it primarily because I could not stand the sound of the stock exhaust but I did get a little more power in the mid-range (2500 to 4000 rpm). I also got a Bama programmer and that gave me a slight improvement in gas mileage and improved performance above 2500 rpm. While I do have programs for 91 octane I usually run with my 87 octane performance program because I don't like to pay the premium price for that premium fuel. I don't need the extra performance of the 91 octane programs but it is fun to use sometimes.

Everything else is pretty much stock. The gears are 4.10 with 31" tires. I have considered electric fans but will not change that until the fan clutch goes out and may not even then. The good fans are very expensive and you need to run the dual fan setup. I think under drive pulleys are a waste of effort and money. I have been tempted to try headers but had a bad experience on another vehicle with headers. They are very difficult to install on the SOHC engine and have not heard much in the way of great things from people that have installed them.

Overall I am very happy with the 4.0 SOHC engine for towing. I have climbed the Rocky Mountains and traveled many roads between California and Ohio with good results. I think the OHV engine should tow as well as the SOHC engine.

BTW, I pull a trailer with a total weight of around 3,500 lbs plus another 800 lbs on the bed.

 

[Ranger5.0]

man, i juss finished reading all of this stuff and wow, veary interesting stuff. why would a manufacturer, be it dodge chevy ford toyota ANYONE intentionaly restrict air and exaust flow...with gas prices and emissions being what they are these days, everyones trying to SAP OUT EVERY last bit of hp and torque out of any engine they build. 10 years ago, they were more worried about making them quiet and then perform, now they are mastering the art of balancing performince with drivability and pleasability. intake/exaust mods are usualy only needed AFTER some engine work that requiers better air flow. Youwant get up and go, better pulling "power" re gear, thats the bottom line. As for why the genaric motors trucks come with an E fan hook up from factory, most likly a factory option for serious tow vehicles that could use the extra air flow at low speeds towing heavy loads... our 05 1 ton @ work has both a mechanical fan and an E fan. Also, underdrive pullys SLOW everything down, so they slow down the water pump, which is bad, less flow you lose cooling, things get hot, and hot, is bad. as mentioned befor, if your alternator isnt turning at its predicted operating rpms, the regulator will compencate, and eventualy, somthings gona prematurly fail..again, bad....veary bad. not being a dick, but how many ppl understand parasitic drag?

 

[Bob Ayers]

man, i juss finished reading all of this stuff and wow, veary interesting stuff. why would a manufacturer, be it dodge chevy ford toyota ANYONE intentionaly restrict air and exaust flow...with gas prices and emissions being what they are these days, everyones trying to SAP OUT EVERY last bit of hp and torque out of any engine they build.

You are exactly right!!! With today's CAFE standards, all vehicle manufacturers design and build their vehicles to be as efficient as possible!!

I hate it when these after-market manufacturers (like K&N, etc.) lie about the performance gains of their air filters, intakes, ignition systems, etc. .......Even worse, people throw millions of $$$ away thinking they work!!!

 

[AllanD]

Automotive magazines are FAMOUS for dreaming up gains for products that are ADVERTISED in their magazines, so I take magazine reviews with a wheelbarrow
full of salt.

Pullies CAN help SLIGHTLY but only at the engine's MAXIMUM operating rpm.


I actually put a SMALLER pulley on my alternator to make it turn FASTER
so it would charge more efficiently at lower engine rpm.

Oh, and BTW since I've never heard of an underdrive crank pulley for a 4.0
I would assume that this means that any underdrive would be accomplished by putting larger pulleys on everthing else which means using a non-standard belt
that you aren't going to be able to get with the sucker fails in the middle
of nowhere...

Gears and Headers, anything else is a pipe dream.

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[Ranger5.0]

hey tee reev: thouse cold air intakes you speak of are a full replacment that puts the filter in the fenderwell right? Ive seen/experienced them, and dont know enough to make a decision. as fas as the intakes on the market for trucks, ive seen veary few that place the air filter in a spot where it gets COLD air

 

[gw33gp]

Gears and Headers, anything else is a pipe dream.

I pretty much agree with that with the exception of a programmer. I am not saying all programmers work but the one I have made a difference and I am not talking about seat of the pants.

I came up with a way to test performance that eliminates the variables of wheel spin from a stop and shifting. I measured time from 40 to 70 mph and 50 to 80 mph in third gear. I made several runs on each tune including stock. I used a good stop watch that I use at the track and the times agree very close to SCCA's equipment.

The results show a definite improvement in performance with the programmer tunes. The 87 octane performance tune improved 40 to 70 mph times by 0.7 sec and 50 to 80 mph by 0.45 seconds over stock. That is not like adding a super charger but it is an measurable improvement.

 

[Bob Ayers]

The results show a definite improvement in performance with the programmer tunes. The 87 octane performance tune improved 40 to 70 mph times by 0.7 sec and 50 to 80 mph by 0.45 seconds over stock. That is not like adding a super charger but it is an measurable improvement.

Did you measure your reaction time? What were the actual times?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I pretty much agree with that with the exception of a programmer. I am not saying all programmers work but the one I have made a difference and I am not talking about seat of the pants.

I have heard good things about programmers as well, I don't know who makes them for Rangers but one that can show codes and sensor readings would be nice too. I have toyed with the idea of getting one for my F-150, but they just jacked the price for the one I like up by $100 for no apparent reason.


http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=54&pvk=160&pname=Ford+New+Evolution&pvname=1997-2003+F-150+Evolution+Programmer

 

[metalmacguyver]

heres my .02.

i am a mechanical engineering student. part of being an engineer is remembering that we have to "design a product for the retarded consumer".

it all comes down to balancing things.
Performance vs: longevity vs: reliability vs: economy vs: production cost

taking this into acount they design a product for the average consumer. this meant that the engine will be designed to run most efficiently at a certain speed.

the thing is though, anyone that wants to do aftermarket upgrades, is much more likely to be operating their engine/vehical far out side of the orgional design parameters.

mostly what aftermarket bolt on products do is optimize the engine for a different speed or application that each consumer prefers.

does that make any sense to any one?