Buying parts for serpentine change... are these brands good?

[Zoso]

Hey guys I need to change out my serpentine belt and I have all the part in mind for what I need, just want to double check and see what you guys think...

Serpentine belt- Goodyear gatorback
Idler pulley- Dorman
Belt tensioner- ? And suggestions?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[scotts90ranger]

Gatorback is one of the best belts, Dorman is a good brand, and no suggestions on the idler, mine is original...

 

[Zoso]

I just need to change a cracked belt, but I figure I would change everything else while I was doing it. Ford says change the belt tensioner and idler pulley every 150k I'm at about 180k right now on my 98

 

[adsm08]

Dayco or Dorman tensioner.

 

[tomw]

I didn't know there was an interval, but did take the time to squish some grease into the idler/tension adjustment bearings on my Vulcan. Made it so far.
The lima adjuster/idler got degreased by me when removing power steering fluid leakage from the engine compartment. I replace that as it was getting 'jerky', and would momentarily seize up, causing very quick 'chirps'. I didn't drive far after hearing those.
If anyone needs a tensioner/idler for a lima 2.3 EFI, the listing for 87-up may be the same FoMoCo part number, though the listings don't cross. Remove the old one, and find the OEM part number. Multiple sources are on the market, but none are listed for an 85, though they'll fit.
tom

 

[Zoso]

The Dorman has a smooth pulley on the tensioner and I believe the stock pull is grooved with a lip, would this make any differeance having just the smooth wheel?

 

[adsm08]

Yes, grooved and smooth pullies run on different sides of the belt.

 

[tomw]

An alternative to changing the tensioner or idler is to re-grease the originals.
IF the currently installed bearing is still smooth running, this process might increase the lifetime of your current tensioner/idler.
In most cases, the grease eventually dries out, and quits lubing the bearings. You may be able to disassemble the bearing, or at least remove the seal and clean and inject some new grease. Most seals are pressed into the sides of the bearing, into the outer race. They can in most cases be pried out of the bearing, and set aside while cleaning the bearings of old grease and 'whatever' has found its way into the bearing. Once clean, you can use wheel bearing grease, pressed into the race, bearings and separator to provide fresh lubricant to the bearings. Press the seal back in place, and re-assemble the idler or tensioner. The bearings are the only real 'wear' point in the idler/tensioner, so the rest should be fine.
If you have a removable tensioner pulley, Rock has one available that is the same as the tensioner for the 1985 model year, BUT, the assembly is made using a riveted 'axle', complete with a shoulder to position and square the 'rivet'. Removal and replacement would require a shouldered bolt, which is not available from my searching. The pulley and bearings are identical to the OEM. If you can remove your tensioner pulley, replacement of the pulley & built-in bearing are possible. You must have a removable 'axle' that the pulley rides on, or access to making one.
tom