Cam upgrade that works with stock tune?

[JoshT]

I hate to sound like a broke record, because I'm sure this question is asked ofen, or atleast a few times over the years. Need suggestions though so here goes.

For the upcoming engine swap on my '99 Ranger (was planned for next week, now ???) I was planning to drop the engine in all stock except for what mods have already been done. Wasn;t going to toucn anything that didn't need to come off for the swap.

While getting things ready, I let project creep step in and it bit me. Decided to start clean and paint a few things for install. Stuff happened and now the lower intake is off with a broken bolt.

This engine has a "high" 180k miles, so I was going to use the Explorer cam and save the upgrade for the next fresh engine. The engine was well maintained and the cylinders were in great shape when I checked them with an inspection camera. Realistically this engine could last a long time before needing anything. Now since the lower is off and the lifters are exposed, I'm thinking maybe this would be a good time to put a mild cam in it.

So this engine is a 2000 Explorer 5.0L. It currently has cheap 1.7 roller rockers, but with a cam change I'll go back to stock a decent 1.6RR set. The engine already has upgraded springs from Alex's Parts that are good for .540 lift.

The truck is a 1999 Ranger Extended cab 4wd. It will be getting the entire drivetrain from the Explorer. Engine, 4R70W, AWD transfer case, and 3.73 ratio axles. Factory "lift" will be removed (remove blocks and decrank bars) and tire size will be dropped down to a 29 for now, maybe a little shorter if suspension works out. Basically a V8 AWD Explorer that lost almost a thousand pounds. Primary use will be cruiser and semi daily driver. Will ocassionally pull an ATV trailer or have it in the bed, and maybe a small teardrop style camper or small (<15 ft) cargo trailer camper conversion (don't own either yet).

Looking for a cam that will see some gains and play well with the stock ECU tuning, but also benefit good from being tuned. Also needs to play well with the stock torque converter. I will investigate upgrading converter in the future, likely when it needs transmission work, but for now it's staying stock.

Finally I'm looking for "budget" off the shelf cam. I'm already spending too much on this swap and this adds another unplanned expense of a few hundred at least. I will eventually build an engine for this truck, but there's no point in rushing it. When that day comes I'll spring for a custom grind, for now I just want off the shelf simple. If it will work with stock pushrods that's even better since the ones in it are still like new. Help to not spend a little more money and I really don't want to spend the time measuring, ordering, and waiting for custom length pushrods.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

I’m running a comp xe258 in my 2wd ranger. It works fine the the factory ecu. Definitely needs valve springs. I like it, definitely pulls harder mid to top than the Explorer cam. I do feel like it lost a small amount off idle but can’t be sure. Didn’t dyno it before or after. That being said if you don’t have a set of headers it’s probably not worth swapping as you’re really restricted there. Mine has gt40 heads, stock rockers, 6.3 pushrods.

 

[JoshT]

I've got OBX TM knockoffs sitting on the shelf along with a full set of upgraded gaskets.

Have upgraded valve springs, but only spec I know is that they are supposed to be good for 0.540" lift. I've sent a message.to the company asking for specs.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

There are 2 xe258 grinds. One is .48 on both I believe. The other is .53 & .54 or round about I believe. I’m running that one. I’m running Alex parts springs too. Seem top notch.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I got THIS ONE for my 5L, I got the trick flow valve springs from Summit to go with it, everything else is stock but I put on OBX headers while I was in there... Conveniently there was an open box of those cams for half price...

Runs pretty good, smooth, no lope, pretty mild, haven't driven my '98 and '00 back to back to see the difference yet, it's on the list of things to do... One odd thing is after the rebuild all you smell is exhaust behind it, no more nasty burnt oil, weird...

 

[Bigmatthew86]

That is the xe264. That was what I wanted to begin with but was steered towards the the 258 because it was supposed to be a little stronger off bottom which is what I wanted.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I don't think it's night and day different, might have lost a little bottom end but with the worn rings and valve stem seals I don't think either of my explorers ran right, that one does run nicer, I need to get some tuning stuff to get the rev limit turned up more now though, it'd be nice to get to 6k instead of 5k... hence the valve springs...

 

[gaz]

@JoshT ,
• It has been my experience that a custom reground cam costs significantly LESS than an aftermarket cam (I am only paying for machining, I own the cam).
• Since you mentioned towing duty, I would select the grind with the greatest low RPM torque.

Oregon Cam Grinders of Vancouver Washington, will regrind your roller cam for $220 plus shipping x2

 

[JoshT]

@gaz

1) While that may be, I was also looking for speed and compatibility with existing parts. I didn't mind paying a bit more for those two.

Two way shipping plus turn around time would have been noticably longer than ordering an off the shelf grind from Summit, about an hour away, or Amazon, two-day shipping. I don't know the cost of shipping a cam clear across the country, but I imagine it would have added at least $100 for the round trip. Reground cam would also have required replacing brand new stock length pushrods with custom length, also adding time and expense for measuring and ordering after receiving the cam.

$$ adds up to put that $220 regrind into easy reach of an OTS cam that I could have received and installed quickly. Possibly not as optimized, but better fitting my needs at the time. Optimized could wait for the next engine.

2) I should not have mentioned towing duty, it skews opinions away from what I want. People see towing and relegate suggestions to it's a truck, use a truck cam. (Not just at TRS) Yes, it might occasionally pull a trailer, but we're probably talking 1300# combined weight. Also rare enough occurrence that it shouldn't be taken into consideration. Hotrods run power tour every year pulling trailers that weigh as much. I might have mentioned a small camper, were talking ~3500 gross weight there, but realistically it won't be pulled by this truck. I've got an F-100 and F-250 that are much better suited to pulling or carrying any load.

None of it matters anyway. This upgrade was based on the idea that it might take a while to fix the broke bolt in my head. Was not going to start the swap until that was fixed, and if the head has to come off it was likely to be weeks. Broke bolt was removed relatively easily by my dad while I was at work a few days later. With that the stock cam is staying. Swap started least week and got both rigs striped down. Engine & transmission will hopefully be in the truck (just mounted) by this time next week.