Choke adjust

[Brownie Mobile]

I know this is very simple but i find it hard to understand auto manuals so if you can help that would be great. On my 2150 i found out what i think is my gas mileage problem or at least part of it i let the motor run for 20 minutes and the choke opened only a weeeeeee little bit more than the base setting for the choke. it might be enough but im not sure to be honest. Its a bout a quarter of fully open at idle fully open meaning the butterfly is completely up and down. My main question is how do i turn the choke to adjust it itself ive inspected all around it and found the rivets that seem to be holding it down from turning, thats what id like to know if youre a to the point kind of guy how do i loosen the choke so i can turn it and adjust it. If youre not any other comments would be appreciated. Im getting 12 volts to the choke nipple thing well 11.87 volts but all the same. Thanks.

 

[doorgunner]

I've adjusted ELECTRIC chokes with hold-down SCREWS.....you make sure the engine is at normal operating temperature....then you loosen the screws just enough so the cap can be rotated slowly until the choke-plate is vertical---then retighten the cap hold-down screws. Then turn the engine off....let it cool down completely....then check the gap with the choke plated "closed" (minimum choke plate gap at wall of airhorn).

I am not familar with vacuum-operated choke mechanisms.....

but driving with a partially opened choke plate will definately burn lots of fuel....

wait for another member with experience to post.....there are also some diagrams with info on the internet that would help you

 

[kimcrwbr1]

When you press the pedal to the floor once the choke should fully close. Start it and the choke pull off should open the butterfly about 3/16 inch. I like to adjust the thermostat to fully open after about 4-5 minutes when its really cold. When you first start it cold tap the gas pedal then adjust the idle speed around 800 rpms the idle will get higher as it warms up and after between 4-5 minutes warm up turn the thermostat back to where it fully opens the butterfly and tap the throttle again it should idle normally. I found the sooner you can get the choke to fully open the better your mileage will be. There is also a tang that will open the choke the further you push down on the throttle. There are two adjustments for the chokeone for choke pull down and after you adjust that the 1/4 screw on top will adjust the cam position for the high idle it depend on your pull off pod some have a adjuster screw on back of the pod and some you bend the wire. You can make that adjustment cold just push the pedal to the floor once then take your thumb and push in on the pod you can use a phillips screwdriver or just guess on the pull off, it should pull the choke open when you push in on the pod with your thumb.

 

[RonD]

Often the choke adjustment is riveted by 3 rivets, these are usually drilled out and replaced with screws when carb is rebuilt, so I guess your carb was never rebuilt, and at 30 years old I don't think that is the original carb.

You may need to drill them out to adjust the choke, assuming you have a bi-metal spring automatic choke, not an electric choke.

But from what you said yes you will need to rotate the cover so the choke is open when engine is warm.

Check out this thread
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95716

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Often the choke adjustment is riveted by 3 rivets, these are usually drilled out and replaced with screws when carb is rebuilt, so I guess your carb was never rebuilt, and at 30 years old I don't think that is the original carb.

You may need to drill them out to adjust the choke, assuming you have a bi-metal spring automatic choke, not an electric choke.

But from what you said yes you will need to rotate the cover so the choke is open when engine is warm.

Check out this thread
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95716

Well thats good to know for the future, when i rebuilt the carb i realized one of the leftover gaskets went in the choke but i truly had no idea how to open it now ill have to see if i can find that gasket and the 3 screws that i thought were extras. So just to confirm when the engine is HOT and IDLING the choke should be wide open( its not) and when the engine is off but after i put my foot to the floor it should be completely shut ( it doesn't) and also the butterfly should open just slightly when i turn the engine on (it doesn't) sounds like i have my work cut out for me So could this also be my fast idle problem? I often end up cracking my self up whenever im letting the brown beast warm up looking at it belching out exhaust at like 2 grand ( shes straight piped so you must imagine how this whole experience feels so funny to me) or maybe you dont but w/e. Thanks for all the input guys and i cant wait to dive into this shit tomorrow! Edit: Also i was thinking wouldn't the fact that i have 12 volts going to the choke mean its electric? how does that change things if it is?

 

[martin]

The 12v to the choke is a heater to warm up the bi-metal spring and open the choke sooner.

 

[a31ford]

.
Ron D and Martin IMO are on the right track.

Electric Chokes should be open fully within 10 Minutes of the engine being started, BUT, they are dependent on an oil switch (they don't heat UNLESS the oil pressure (NOT the dash light) switch for the carb circuit sends 12 volts to to the choke heater.

SO, here's the easy test.... disconnect the wire from the choke heater and test for voltage (both key on, engine OFF, AND key on, engine RUNNING.

You can use a test bulb or probe without hurting this circuit.

IF you get no voltage (no light) when the engine is running, you have them found the problem, and NO CHOKE ADJUSTMENT IS NECESSARY.


I'll give you a hint...... the amount of choke you have spoken about is about right for there NOT being 12 volts there, when the engine is running.


Oh, one other thing, the oil sensor that runs the choke heater, uses a relay in most cases (the switch does not supply power directly.

Oh heck, Here..............

Looking at the diagram, I see the computer does the sensing, instead of a seperate switch... (but there is still a relay
Greg

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Often the choke adjustment is riveted by 3 rivets, these are usually drilled out and replaced with screws when carb is rebuilt, so I guess your carb was never rebuilt, and at 30 years old I don't think that is the original carb.

You may need to drill them out to adjust the choke, assuming you have a bi-metal spring automatic choke, not an electric choke.

But from what you said yes you will need to rotate the cover so the choke is open when engine is warm.

Check out this thread
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95716

Those are actually break away screws just take a small chizzle and turn them out a little bit until you can grab it with your fingers and just get new screws at the hardware store the same length and thread.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

.
Ron D and Martin IMO are on the right track.

Electric Chokes should be open fully within 10 Minutes of the engine being started, BUT, they are dependent on an oil switch (they don't heat UNLESS the oil pressure (NOT the dash light) switch for the carb circuit sends 12 volts to to the choke heater.

SO, here's the easy test.... disconnect the wire from the choke heater and test for voltage (both key on, engine OFF, AND key on, engine RUNNING.

You can use a test bulb or probe without hurting this circuit.

IF you get no voltage (no light) when the engine is running, you have them found the problem, and NO CHOKE ADJUSTMENT IS NECESSARY.


I'll give you a hint...... the amount of choke you have spoken about is about right for there NOT being 12 volts there, when the engine is running.


Oh, one other thing, the oil sensor that runs the choke heater, uses a relay in most cases (the switch does not supply power directly.

Oh heck, Here..............

Looking at the diagram, I see the computer does the sensing, instead of a seperate switch... (but there is still a relay
Greg

The relay is by the start solenoid and is a 5 wire relay sometimes hard to find a new relay, it provides a pulsing voltage to the choke thermostat. Do not apply battery voltage to the choke or it will get cooked. The computer controls the relay the problem I found with mine is the relay connector was just corroded. clean it with electrical cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the connector when you put the relay in and then check that your getting a pulsing voltage to the choke with the engine running.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If your getting power to the choke the choke thermostat is bad if it dont open clean the linkage on the side of the carb good with carb cleaner in case it is sticky.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Alright well i dove in today heres what i found, i am most certainly getting power to the choke without a doubt, it does seem to fluctuate slightly but IDK if it would be considered a "pulse". The linkage is nice and clean and wd-40'd. It sounds to me like the thermostat is bad as kim was saying so instead of shelling out 70 bucks for a new one is there an alternative? I'm assuming it being bad just means the spring in there is tired of winding up and unwinding for 29 years and its lost some of its retention maybe. Assuming this is true could i just turn it until the choke is open with the engine hot like someone was saying here before and hope it works, idk lemme know what you guys think i don't have 70 bucks atm ive thought about a manual choke as well something temporary until i can afford to fix her.

 

[a31ford]

Alright well i dove in today heres what i found, i am most certainly getting power to the choke without a doubt, it does seem to fluctuate slightly but IDK if it would be considered a "pulse". The linkage is nice and clean and wd-40'd. It sounds to me like the thermostat is bad as kim was saying so instead of shelling out 70 bucks for a new one is there an alternative? I'm assuming it being bad just means the spring in there is tired of winding up and unwinding for 29 years and its lost some of its retention maybe. Assuming this is true could i just turn it until the choke is open with the engine hot like someone was saying here before and hope it works, idk lemme know what you guys think i don't have 70 bucks atm ive thought about a manual choke as well something temporary until i can afford to fix her.

Cordless Drill with a 1/4" bit, and the local junkyard or u pick. 5 bucks ??? around there. (That's cheaper than the manual choke kit, and the hassle of installing it.)

Greg

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea they are spendy you can try adjusting it back clockwise until it pull the butterfly all the way open solid it just may run like ass until it warms up a bit. the junk yard fix would only be temp but what you can do is get a thermostat with a spade connector. I have mine connected to the alternator field wire white with black stripe. It puts out around 8 volts only when the engine is running. If you look close that whit/blk wire goes up to the grey 8 wire connector and stops there. It is the place the earlier ford engines pulled power for the choke and works great. To confirm you have the right terminal on the alternator turn the key on run engine off there should be no power tor the terminal on the alternator then starty it and you should have 8 volts when running. Use that to power the choke thermostat with a spade connector.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sorry it is the stator wire thats white/black my bad.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Well im gonna try just turning it as you suggested i can at least be glad since the weather is warming up again so maybe she wont be too much of a bitch in the mornings. I'll try to keep this thread updated, but at least i have the possible fixes now, thanks guys. Is it at all possible that the choke could continue to work after i turn it and it just needed adjustment or is it just toast?