Coyote Ugly:97 Ranger build

[mavereq]

I'm a big fan of high pinion 44's. They're a lot lighter than a 60 and handle a decent size tires. I'm running 37's on a 44 with too much power in my bronco and will be upgrading to a 60, but one of my wheeling buddies is running 40" trepadors on his hp 44 with an ARB and RCV's and has no issues. He doesn't have a lot of power and he is a good driver.

I think the clowns over at pirate have made everyone think you have to run a 60 up front when that isn't always the case.

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd run a Currie rock jock 44 housing. It takes the JK gear set. The pinion is a lot bigger than the old 44's and it's a lot lighter.

 

[prerunner]

If you're serious about beating a 44 then the HP is top dog. As long as you respect that they have limits. They aren't and can't be made bulletproof. The 60's advantage is being bigger.
The ring and pinion are the initial weak point. After that its a crap shoot for whats next.
This kit will help with the 44 r & p weakness bringing it almost to Dana 60 size.
http://www.jantz4x4.com//jantz.php?p=detail&pro=jana_54
To use a JK r & p means using low pinion stuff. See http://www.jantz4x4.com//jantz.php?p=detail&pro=jana_k4

Carl Jantz is a freaking genius for putting next size up ring and pinions in small housings. Good guy in Poulsbo, Washington. He patented the super joint (u joint) sold by Yukon. Its good to have a McGuyver in the 4x4-iverse.

 

[out cast]

That's the thing, I have never seen this front axle. It's low pinion but open knuckle, larger u joint, 8 lug, coil spring, and runs a traction bar type radius arm. Look up Pathfinder van. Totally different...

Also an update on Coyote Ugly, picked up some 3.5" or 3" James Duff springs, not sure how they'll fit for ride height but I'll find out tomorrow hopefully. They need cleaned up but I'll toss them in to check ride height first.

Got a 10.25 sterling off my brother who's building a Bronco on tons and 42's.

And from his tear down of it...

 

[out cast]

Replaced
-Air filter
-Spark plugs
xWires looked decent
-Drained fuel from tank (assumed it was old, put $10 premium in it) new fuel filter
Cleaned
-MAF
-IAC
-TB

Figured I'd check firing order as it was still bucking and idling 1200ish roughly, found plug wire 2 royally F'd. Replaced them.

Found the Radio noise suppressor (?) wire by the coil cut, attempted twist it back together but not enough wire sticking out of the black plug. I stupidly thought it was a hot wire for some reason (red wire in?) so i ran it to Batt+ and it made the relays come to life and was running but wouldn't shut off by key until I disconnected it. With no hot to coil, no relays come on with key, just cranks.

Help, Whats my next steps??

 

[out cast]

Running again, but still hesitation, missing and stumbling on acceleration

 

[out cast]

No help after 2 weeks? I don't know how else to describe the issue. I've searched it and I need some help or guidance on the fix

 

[RayInStl]

Does it idle smooth and only hesitate on acceleration? I'd put a fuel pressure gauge on it and make sure I'm getting pressure. Another thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. I think it's vac controlled on your motor. Pull the vac line off after running a few minutes and check for gas in the vac line. If there is, the regulator is bad.

Other than that, a smoke test to look for vacuum leaks would be my next suggestion. Are you getting a check engine light?