Custom front axle??

[Robert_1967]

Is there any type of front axle set up that will get rid of the tire lay in when the front is lowered ?

I'm at the moment, I'm looking for a solid I-beam axle from a older Ford that I can have cut down for my 88 Ranger, but if I can't find one, what is another type of front end setup that will keep the front tire true from a traveling stance, to a cruising stance, the cruising being lower, probably not frame laying, but pretty low.


Back when I was young I had the First Low riding 87 Hard body Nissan in New Port, Tn., every one else was buying Toys to lower, I bought a New 87 Hard Body Nissan, and in two weeks had it lowered.



Robert

 

[ZMan]

if you're dead set on having a straight axle, then you could try a lowered axle for say a Model A, 32 Ford, or get one for a pickup and have it cut down. A Mustang II setup would be the way to go in my opinion though, they don't get much camber change throughout the cycle.

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

Funny you mentioned the Toyotas - some guys have actually taken the Toy front suspension clip and grafted them onto a Ranger frame and lowered them that way. Best of luck with it and keep us posted as to what you decide to do.

 

[ZMan]

Funny you mentioned the Toyotas - some guys have actually taken the Toy front suspension clip and grafted them onto a Ranger frame and lowered them that way. Best of luck with it and keep us posted as to what you decide to do.

Ahh yes I forgot about that one...

 

[Robert_1967]

if you're dead set on having a straight axle, then you could try a lowered axle for say a Model A, 32 Ford, or get one for a pickup and have it cut down. A Mustang II setup would be the way to go in my opinion though, they don't get much camber change throughout the cycle.

This is what I was wondering, looking for, I often thought about a Mustang II front set up, but I didn't know if they had a bad camber shift, I'll have to look into that setup more.

I'm not "dead setup" on the solid front axle, it was just the only one I could think of at the time, and figured it would be the easiest to setup, though I really didn't want to use a leaf spring in the front.


thanks for the info.

on a side note, I have a 92 Explorer 8.8 rear end, that should give me one heck of a drop in the rear, so I got that part handled already, unfortunately it's a open rear end, I'm going to read up about either getting a spool, or weld it up, what ever is the cheapest, unless I can trade for a locker, on the bright side it's a 3.27 so that will help with lowering the RPM's on the interstate.

this is the build tread that I'm doing for any that are interested http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95330

Robert

 

[slammedxonair]

A mustang 2 or 84-94 toyota pickup suspension with air bags or coil overs would have the best geometry. I have bagged vehicles with both suspensions. But you can get a 5" drop with DJM 3" drop beams and Belltech 2" drop coils.

 

[Robert_1967]

My biggest problem with using drop beams is that is when I'm cruising Gatlinburg, and Pigeon Forge I want it in a lower stance, but if I'm on the Interstate, I want it up to a good ride height, and with drop beams, the tires will either be laid in when lowered, or have the tops out when up, that is why I was thinking of a solid I-beam axle, or some other type of suspension that would allow me to do this.


I'm going to check into a Mustang II setup to see if I can get it to work that way, if not then I'm going to have to find a old Ford axle, or a 2wd Jeep axle.

thanks for everyone input, it helps out alot.


Robert

 

[stmitch]

How are you planning on changing the ride height? If you do drop beams, and springs (a static drop), a good alignment is all that would be needed to avoid negative camber, but you wouldn't be able to change the ride height, you'd be stuck with whatever drop you get out of the drop beams. If you're wanting to bag it, then mustang II clip would be the way to go for any ride height you chose.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

on a side note, I have a 92 Explorer 8.8 rear end, that should give me one heck of a drop in the rear, so I got that part handled already, unfortunately it's a open rear end, I'm going to read up about either getting a spool, or weld it up, what ever is the cheapest, unless I can trade for a locker, on the bright side it's a 3.27 so that will help with lowering the RPM's on the interstate.
Robert

For an old school CHEAP posi you can add an extra side gear washer to an open diff. I've done that to a 9" and a d-28. Cost~ $5.00 + oil.

Richard

 

[GMillion$]

Solid axle it with leafsprings, take the hood off, mount some 30" slicks out back and run it like a gasser!!

For real though, i'm sure there's places online that'd love to sell you a brand new complete mustang II front clip w/ x-members, bags etc... for $$$$

 

[Robert_1967]

Solid axle it with leafsprings, take the hood off, mount some 30" slicks out back and run it like a gasser!!

For real though, i'm sure there's places online that'd love to sell you a brand new complete mustang II front clip w/ x-members, bags etc... for $$$$

I do love the old Gasser look, and I am really considering the solid axle setup, so far it's would be the cheapest way to go.

I will be running a set of 235/75/15's on the back, I already know that I'm going to have to flare out the bed sides, and maybe do a mini tub in the bed.

I still looking for a cheap Mustang II front clip, there just isn't many of them around.

If I do use the solid axle, I would use a 3 or 4 link setup, and bags, I can get a set of bags from my old boss that I use to drive truck for, there is a old Peterbuilt sitting in the back that has air ride on it, a total of 8 bags, and also two small ones on the cab for the cab air ride, so getting bag's is no problem, I can also get both auto ride height switch's.


Robert

 

[GMillion$]

My next lowrider is gonna be about the same: I want it real low all the time, then i want to hit "the switch" to lay frame and show everyone else on the highway just how cool i am!

I think if i was gonna do it on a ranger (and for cheap), I'd get some aftermarket beams (or cut up some stockers) to get zero camber at the "ride height" drop, then bag em and just deal with the negative camber when it was in the weeds...

it'll wear tires faster, but you probably wont be doin all your cruising when you're completely slammed. Plus I bet the neg camber would help tuck the tops of your tires in more so you weren't rubbing inside the fenders.

Anyways, I don't really know anything bout layin out a ranger, the only truck i ever lowered was an 89 hardbody (a couple years ago) and all i did then was re-index the t-bar keys, cut the front bumpstops in half, ditch some leafs out back and relocate the front leaf spring mounts. Looked deadly on 17" escalade wheels though!

 

[Robert_1967]

My first NEW truck was a 87 Nissan Hardbody truck, it only had 10 miles on it when I got it, inside of two weeks, I had it lowered, everyone else in Newport, Tn. was getting Toys and lowering them, I just had to be different.



Robert

 

[slammedxonair]

How high are you planning on the frame beiing off the ground on the highway? Most people set there ride hight and get it aligned there. With ibeams and bags you can have about a 5"-(6" pushing it) drop from stock and still be able to align it. Your front tires will be close to the lip of your fenders and you should be able to make most turns still with out lifting the truck. If you change the front suspension from Ibeams stick with a mustang 2 or 84-94 toyota front suspension, yota also get more suspension travel than the M2 with out heavy modification however the M2 has more aftermaket parts available for them.

The bags on the cab of a simi are not going to get crap for lift and would probably take a ton of pressure to lift the truck especially in the front. The only bags on a simi you may be able to use are the front ones on the rear suspension of the ranger...maybe thats if they are about a 2800lb bag which is still pretty big for a mini.

 

[Robert_1967]

How high are you planning on the frame beiing off the ground on the highway? Most people set there ride hight and get it aligned there. With ibeams and bags you can have about a 5"-(6" pushing it) drop from stock and still be able to align it. Your front tires will be close to the lip of your fenders and you should be able to make most turns still with out lifting the truck. If you change the front suspension from Ibeams stick with a mustang 2 or 84-94 toyota front suspension, yota also get more suspension travel than the M2 with out heavy modification however the M2 has more aftermaket parts available for them.

The bags on the cab of a simi are not going to get crap for lift and would probably take a ton of pressure to lift the truck especially in the front. The only bags on a simi you may be able to use are the front ones on the rear suspension of the ranger...maybe thats if they are about a 2800lb bag which is still pretty big for a mini.

I don't know yet, it depends on where the rear end of the truck sits, But I do want it to where, when I'm in Gatlinburg, I want to run it real low, BUT when I'm driving down the Interstate, or around town I want it a bit higher so I'm not hitting the speed bumps.

also on the bags from a big truck, the Old truck has the 8 bags on it, not the 4 bags, meaning they are the smaller ones that the online stores sale to the bagged crowds, I can also get the auto leveler so when I hit the dump switch, the truck will lower to where I want "cruse" in and then raise it back up to reg ride height when just driving around.

It would be much easier if I could find a solid axle, but so far they all have been way, way too much for my budget.



Robert