d30 sas steering?

[redneckbronco]

Ok, I did the search, yes ive read the debates, d30 or d35, well i can get the d30 for almost nothing which is way cheaper than 300$ or more for the d35ttb so.......All i want to know is what do i need for the steering? nowhere is it made exactly clear of what parts are needed to make the steering work or what fabrication is needed for the radius arms or what ever jeep calls them can someone thats done the swap enlighten me plz? Thanx

 

[Mudhound]

For the steering, simply use the Cherokee stuff, except where it connects to the pitman arm. Use the Ranger TRE from the old passenger side knuckle. It connects to the XJ steering, and the Ranger box. As for the control arms that the Dana 30 uses, you can go several different ways with that. You can use aftermarket bracket kits, homebrewed longarms, factory style mounting, or a cmbination of Ford studs on the frame, mounted to a long arm kit. I am using a homebrewed mid-arm kit that attaches to the lower mounts on the axle, goes back 33-34 inches fromthe bolt and then mounts to a new Xmember. The upper arms are going to tie on to the lowers at a yet to be decided point. I still need to measure for them, along with chopping down the engine cradle due to possible axle travel interference.

 

[dangerranger83]

I was wondering which ranger side TRE to use and was going to ask but it was answered for me.

Im using the factory control arms but still need to figure out where to mount my top ones at. Right now all I need to get a pinion shaft bearing and then I can put my D30 back together.

 

[redneckbronco]

the d30 is off a yj wrangler if it matters.

 

[Mudhound]

Well, the D30 being from a YJ means that you can leafspring it quite easily, or get your brackets together and coilspring it. Ballistic Fab has a good selection of kits and pieces. I am going to be ordering some parts from them for another project that I have cooking.

As for "where/how" to mount the uppers, DR83, You can copy the XJ setup, but you will have to box the frame in to mount the brackets. I saw a Ranger done this way on here awhile back. Also, here's a little tip for you from my Cherokee days... go find a 99 up GRAND Cherokee, and steal the knuckles and calipers. The knuckles are a true hi-steer AND crossover, plus the brake calipers are F'n HUGE compared to the XJ. You "do" need a couple of odd parts to make it work, but, I tell you what...IT F'N KICKS AZZ. Let me know if you want the break down on it. I am doing it to my Ranger, without a second thought. Oh, and for around here at least, the parts to do this run $*80. So screw the high dollar Teraflex conversion knuckle-$300, by its' self.

 

[dangerranger83]

I hope you update your build thread soon Mudhound so I can see you do all this. Can I just put the 99 calpiers on my current D30, btw came off an 94 Grand Cheerokee 6 cylinder as I found out recently, or do I have to put the 99 knuckles on it too to be able to do that? So what your saying is my upper ones will be going between my frame rails? Wouldnt my bottom ones do the samething? I need to get outside and measure stuff when it quits raining and draw everything out.

What are the benefits of a hi-steer? I know one day after my SAS I'm going to be stairing at it and saying "what improvements can I make on this" and from the sounds of it a hi-steer is one of them. Basiclly if you have any info to add that can help me, say it please, Im all ears!!!!!!

 

[Mudhound]

Okay, the reason that you need the 99 & up knuckles is that the calipers are a totally different style, and are specific to those knuckles. The calipers are available as 4 piston, or 2 piston, hence the reason for the knuckles. They will fit the ball joints of the D30, no trouble. You need rotors for an 01 and up TJ Wrangler, and the spacer pieces from JKS manufactoring that are 1/4 thick, and weld to the knuckles. This lets you run your 91 and up uni-bearings. The hi-steer is nice as it moves the tierod up almost 3" from where it is now, which means you are less likely to whack it and bend it.

 

[Mudhound]

The UCAs' or upper control arms will mount inside the frame, if you use the stock style mounts. The LCAs' will actually mount under the frame, but the bracket will be angled "under" the truck, towards the centerline. Also, since you are looking at using the stock Jeep LCAs', when you get the knuckles off of the WJ series Grand Cherokee, get the LCAs' also. Those are FULLY boxed, thicker than the ZJ arms, and have a convenient curve in them to help reduce the amount of tirerub on the arm. They will fit in the brackets on the axle just fine, and since you will be making your frame side mounts, you can space them as needed to fit the bushings.

 

[dangerranger83]

My control arms are round tube type and are curved. This axle was last under a 94 Grand Cheeroke but what it original came from I'm not sure. All I know is that it was rebuilt and ran for a bit and then was given to me.

So the hi -steer isnt any stronger, its just insurance to help from stuff destroying the linkage. But because mine wont see off road use or very little, its not high on the need list.

You need to get the info. you just told me into the tech. library under the Dana 30 section. For as many people there are putting D30 under their ranger, there is little info about upgrades, how it can mount under your truck, etc.... All this info you gave me, I was clueless about and didnt know about.

You're a real help and I hope to see you get yours under your truck soon so I can see how its done on a Gen1 truck, at least if my memory serves me right that what your doing your SAS to.

 

[Roger]

Mudhound you are doing most of what I was planning with a SAS. But for now (monetary constraints) my D35 will suffice. I never really gave things a chance when I switched to longer radius arms and all.

I like that you mention the 2 and 4 piston brakes for the WJ, the 2 piston doesn't give much improvement, but the 4 pistron Akebono brakes are far more desirable.

 

[dangerranger83]

I'll be happy if I have brakes, not looking to stop on a dime. Plus my calipers on my D30 are still new, but just dirty. The onew JY that I know of that will have newer vehicles in it, the owner charges an arm and a leg for anything plus if it looks like its an expensive part he will charge as so.

Basiclly my D30 was rebuilt from the ground up before I got it.

 

[Mudhound]

Guys, I know what you mean about a lack of info concerning a given topic. It is something that drives me crazy, so I am happy to share what I know or have learned. DR83, is ther anyway that you can give me a pic of your axle? esp at the knuckles, and a shot of the LCAs' that you have that are curved. I want to see them so that I don't have you looking for parts that you allready have.
Roger, I felt that I needed to mention the 2 caliper styles for people to hopefully understand better what they are looking at, and that just because you see one type, doesn't mean that you are only able to use that one. It sounds like you might know a bit about the WJ yourself. I also want people to know that they need to get one or the other of the calpier styles for this axle, so that they aren't having a fit trying to get the old style D30 calipers to work.

I got to go play at 4 junkyards today while helping a friend of mine that just got a 90 Ranger find a headlight, as his passenger side decided melt down the other night on the way home. I am going to be posting some pictures of the D30 parts in question, so that everybody can see what I am describing, and be able to confidently say yes or no to the guys a the junkyards about wether or not that is the right part for them. I am also going to try and find any pix I might have of this mess put together unde my old Cherokee, so you can see how it works.
( I am also going to try and get Robert to sign up here...)

 

[dangerranger83]

I have pictures of my D30 in my build thread on page 12, thats where my SAS build is taking place but ya I'll get pictures on here ASAP for you.

Here are the pictures, man is it cold outside.......

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And a shot of the bad pinion bearing that is stopping me from putting it together. I have a stupid question, is this bearing the inner or outter pinion bearing, I just want to make sure before I get one. When I got it from a guy, this is how it showed up, it wasnt like this when he shipped it to me, show how nice UPS handles stuff, ya the oil slinger was bent but I got it straight again......

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If you need anymore just let me know. I was told my steering linkage was going to be shipped out to me today, thats one of the major things that I need, traded gears for it.

 

[Mudhound]

Okay. The axle is a High-pinion, most likely originally from an XJ,as I don't recall the ZJ having a high pinion from the factory. That's fine. The control arms are after market, maybe Pro-comps. The knuckles are the stock ones, not the later model ones that I was describing. The LCAs' that are bent onthe later model are a rectangular box style, with a curve in them to allow for tire clearance so that the tires don't rub at full lock.
As for the pinion bearing that is the inner one and it is, as you have noticed pressed on. I cut them off when a Dremel so that I don't loose any material from the pinion when pressing the old bearing off. If you cut it off, DO NOT cut all the way through the inner race, as you could nick the pinion. Instead, cut almost completely through it, then "pop" it with a chisel. If it doesnt pop after 1-2 whacks, then you need to go back and forth a little bit more. Watch for high spots inthe cut, as they will be the spots to re-do.

 

[Mudhound]

DR83, I can't see too clearly, but do the brake caliper brackets BOLT on to the knuckle? It looks like it from here. IF they do, then the axle is DEF. from an XJ, and a pre 91 at that. The axle is a NON disconnect. That would mean that it came from an XJ with the NP 242 case, which was fulltime capable. Good stuff. Did you get the axleshafts with it? I ask because if the there is a tonering for ABS on the stub shaft, then it has the BIG u-joints in it. Those are a 297 series, which is D44 size. If not, then you can simply grab a set of shafts from a 95 and up XJ, or even a TJ and have the big joints. I prefer to pull them from an XJ, as they are cheaper because Wrangler parts are STUPID high, and 85% of XJs' do NOT get wheeled, so the parts tend to be in better shape.
Onthe steering, make sure that the the TREs' are good, and that you get the steering stabalizer for it.you really don't want to run this front end without it. It gets "twitchy" fast.
I have some pix. of some Uparmouring that I do to these things, as I have found the weak points and I don't like having to figure ot how to fix junk out in the woods if I can avoid it. I will find those, and post them in my build up.