diy alignment where to take degree readings

[94 4.0 5-spd 4wd ranger]

my lift is finally done after a full weekend and half a weekday, with my spicer adjustable bushings in it, it doesnt look like im far off at all with my camber. i have a pull right so i know im going to have to adjust the caster on it, i am wondering where everyone has take their readings from when they measure their caster and camber. i have seen the tech article on alignment and noticed that the member who posted it tore down to the knuckle to measure his caster and camber but i know that if i support the beams any way other than with the wheel itself taking the weight it will throw off the ride height and make the measurements invalid. So again just wondering if anyone has some other reference points to put a protractor/angle gauge on for when the wheel is still on. im thinking back of the rotor but havent gotten to take a crack at it yet. the ranger is sitting out in the drive way on some angle iron and socket extension rollers to relieve any compression/tension awaiting an alignment in the morning

 

[four100d]

Go to an alignment shop for a free alignment check. Have them give you a print out, then use that print out to get the caster and camber close. I got the adjustable bushings from Napa that have the letters on them for the different degree settings. I done the math and from the print out the alignment shop gave me, I set the caster and camber accordingly. (Note: I drove there for them to align it, only to have them tell me they only do factory stuff and don't do adjustable bushings)

It wasn't quite that easy though, I ended up having to tweak the camber multiple times to get it close. For the camber, I just used a 2ft level, taped some brackets to it that would allow the level to sit against the edge of the rim. It was pretty basic, but it worked. I just wanted to get mine close enough to drive a couple days until I could get it into a shop that would do the adjustable bushings. Well, it turned out, only the toe was off. So the method I used got me within spec on caster and camber. I didn't actually measure the caster, I just set it to how many degrees out the alignment shop print out said it was, and when I tweaked the camber, I made sure the caster stayed at the same degree setting. I don't know much about alignment, so I would recommend having a shop do it for you. The only reason I did it was because I couldn't find anyone over the weekend that would mess with the adjustable bushings...

 

[brinker88]

With my leveling coils I needed 3 degree camber bushings maxed out and that set it almost perfect.

 

[AlaskanRider]

Four100d described what I always try to do. I'm still hunting for an alignment shop that does free estimates in fairbanks though.

I like the use of level and a bracket. I couldn't figure out a bracket I was happy with, so I just used a makeshift plumb bob and measured from the edges of the rim.

Caster is tricky, I haven't really figured out a great way to do it. Usually I just measure the lean of the rim at full lock on both sides, and try to minimize the change, as I don't like too much caster. Not very scientific, I know, but I was happy with mine when I finished.

Oh! One thing is to roll the truck back and forth in a straight line on a level surface before you take measurements. Mine always settles a little bit when I do this.

 

[4x4junkie]

Oh! One thing is to roll the truck back and forth in a straight line on a level surface before you take measurements. Mine always settles a little bit when I do this.

Or you could also stick a couple plates with metal dowels between them under one front tire (and a block of similar thickness on the other side) to relieve any bind between the tires.

When I do an alignment, I basically just eyeball the camber comparing it to the rear wheel (provided the vehicle has a solid rear axle, if dealing with an IRS vehicle I'll go the extra step and get a level or angle finder gauge out against the wheel rim).

Caster, I just do it by feel. If it pulls right, I add a degree to the right or subtract a degree from the left (and vice-versa if it pulls left). Actual caster angle itself isn't super critical as long as it's within a certain range on both sides (usually anywhere between 3-6° on most vehicles).