drilling spot welds

[dogwoofyup]

hey whats up. can i drill out spot welds on a rear fender with a normal drill bit or do i need a spot weld drill bit?. i looked at some and saw theres 2 kinds..a hole cutter one and a regular dril bit. and how many welds would be on a 94 ranger rear fender to take it off the bed? thanks

 

[v-8power]

It would be easier to use the spotweld cutter compared to a regular drill bit.(I think)

As far as how many spotwelds, you'll just have to count them.

 

[mudnsnow]

I don't know how much spot you will have to remove on your rear fender. But on mine i've remov'd the radiator support by drilling the spot weld with a regular 1/4 drill bit. It took some time to do but it can be done easilly.

 

[rickcdewitt]

if you do it right the spot weld cutter can do it without going through the back panel

 

[canyoncritter]

Spot weld bits do make it a more "fun" project.If you buy one make sure to get a "good" one.The cheap's seem to be no better than a drill bit after about 5 spot welds.

if I had to take a guess on how many spotwelds per bedside skin. about 50 or so and a dozen hidden ones.

trust me robie the robot that spot welds the bedsides to the tub,really works for his money.

 

[ZMan]

ya just do yourself a favor and use a spotweld cutter. Either Blair or Keystone, no others. If you get the blair cutter, get refills too because they're very unpredictable. I've stripped all the teeth off on the first weld, and I've also had them last for 70 welds, its just the luck of the draw. Also, either use a center punch or drill an 1/8" pilot hole to keep it centered (you don't have to drill all the way though).

 

[almostclueless]

A drill bit is of course beveled over it's entire tip, and will remove a good bit of the back layer. Not an insurmountable obstacle, but not necessary.


The hole saw cutter, as mentioned, have to be quality items. They have to be used at slow drill RPMs and gentle force, leave a circle of the upper layer that must be ground off, and frequently drill a smaller hole virtually all the way thru. I don't see the point in them.


The cutter that looks like a drill bit with an almost entirely flat end still has to be operated at low drill RPM and gentle force to last, drill a smaller diameter divot in the back layer, but if used right otherwise leave the back layer alone. I have had awesome success with these.


I like the cutters that look like a flat ended drill bit, with a variable speed drill, patience, and lots of time to do the job.

 

[metalmacguyver]

Have you seen these?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=56776&group_ID=825

 

[genIIinprogress]

hey man i drill spot welds every day and the best thing to do is first drill a 1/8 inch hole all the way through the metal then if you want to use a regular drill bit you have to be very carefull on the depth of wich you drill. if your going to use a spot weld cutter make sure you dont punch a whole all the way through cause then you are just going to give yourself a big headache. if you can slide a chisel in between the two sheets of metal by the spot weld then you will know when you are through the first section of metal.... ( it will pop apart)....

just take you time and be patient. A hammer and chisel will come in very handy too.


good luck

marcus

 

[ZMan]

hey man i drill spot welds every day and the best thing to do is first drill a 1/8 inch hole all the way through the metal then if you want to use a regular drill bit you have to be very carefull on the depth of wich you drill. if your going to use a spot weld cutter make sure you dont punch a whole all the way through cause then you are just going to give yourself a big headache. if you can slide a chisel in between the two sheets of metal by the spot weld then you will know when you are through the first section of metal.... ( it will pop apart)....

just take you time and be patient. A hammer and chisel will come in very handy too.


good luck

marcus

and if you can get one, get a thick chisel that has a sharp end AND side, so you can whack it on the side with a hammer, they come in VERY handy but I always forget I have one lol.

 

[projectnitemare]

What are you trying to do, just replace the bedside with a stock sheet metal one or fiberglass? Personally if you aren't trying to reuse the bedside you are taking off grind them off. I've done spot welds both ways. The cutters work if you need to save the parts, so does a drill bit and so does drilling then prying the weld. If you have a welder, use the cutter. If you are bolting it back on use a drill bit. If you are replacing it grind them away.

Matt

 

[rickcdewitt]

. If you get the blair cutter, get refills too because they're very unpredictable. I've stripped all the teeth off on the first weld, and I've also had them last for 70 welds, its just the luck of the draw. ).

haha well put.i think a lot of it is the current stess level and how much of a hurry i'm in

 

[dogwoofyup]

i am replacing it cuz i got a a rearender accident..i cant find a used bed or panel so im going to get one from the website car parts wholesale http://www.carpartswholesale.com/wholesale/auto_body/ford-ranger-9440360.html
thats the link..its about $300 ..yeah i know its flareside but i dont care..my truck isnt even legal to drive cuz the light is all busted up and i cant fit a new one in, but i use clear red tape haha. so has anyone used these things? and on the spot weld thanks. i found a guy online on craigslist that can take my beat up one off and weld on this one.

 

[projectnitemare]

Flareside bedsides are fiberglass. If I recall they are only short bed but don't hold me to that one. You can get steel bedsides from lots of places. First check pretty much any bodyshop they can get it. Most parts stores can direct you where to order aftermarket body parts as well. If you still can't find anything LMC truck has them.

Matt