Front axle help 94 Ranger

[beefgravy]

Ok I have had many rangers but this is my first 4x4..lol

I have what looks like a u joint in the front axle that is conected to the passenger axle. It is near the middle of the truck. It is so worn and sloppy it just clanks and I can move it with one finger. It doesnt have any torque bolts though. Does anybody know how to change this? Is there a simple and easy way or just have to pull the axle out?

Thanks guys..

 

[legoms013]

Not an easy one to change.

Method one: There is a c-clip in the differential that holds that shaft in place. So to get it out you have to disassemble everything down to the bare knuckle on the passenger side, and the driver's side, then unbolt the diff from the beam. Not easy. Takes a while with all the right tools.

Method two: I have heard however of people just disassembling the passenger side to the knuckle, then using a u-joint press/ball joint press/ or large c-clamp to push the joint out, then wiggle the shaft out (push the two caps off so that the trunnion of the u-joint stays with the outer passenger side axle shaft....then slide it out). Install the new u-joint on the axle shaft, slide it back in, and then use a u-joint press/ball joint press/ or large c-clamp to press the new u-joint's other two caps into the other side of the axle shaft that does not come out of the diff (while under the truck...probably not much fun either).

Comprende? lol long post I know.

Is this truck bone stock?

If you use method one, do the "c-clip eliminator" mod. Do a search on it, its a $3 spring that saves much headache down the road.

If you do method two, don't worry about the mod. However if you plant to fix the truck up and lift it, tires, lockers or gears or any kind of that kind of stuff, I'd do the c-clip eliminator mod and other general maintenance stuff while the whole front end is pulled apart.

For reference I can do method one in about one day, with air tools and all the parts in front of me and drive it the next day. That's packing the bearings and replacing the u-joints. Its a long day though. A 3 day weekend is perfect though...

Method two probably would take just about as long, maybe a couple hours less time.

Good luck, if you have any other questions...ask away.

 

[beefgravy]

I think i get it. I definatly am not going to try method 1. I may just live with it as I dont use the 4x4 much. Im changing tie rods and maybe ball joints on sat so I will see if I want to attempt that.

Thank you for the info!

It is stock accept for 31 in tires.

 

[brinker88]

Legoms +1

Great post.

 

[4x4junkie]

I think i get it. I definatly am not going to try method 1. I may just live with it as I dont use the 4x4 much. Im changing tie rods and maybe ball joints on sat so I will see if I want to attempt that.

Thank you for the info!

It is stock accept for 31 in tires.

You're ¾ the way there if you're doing the ball joints... At that point all you'd have left is to yank the diff from the axle beam and you can then pull the circlip and do the eliminator mod if desired.

One thing that might give you a bit of grief is the bolt that's right behind the driver's side radius arm... A good trick for getting it out past the arm is to grind the bolt head into a "D" shape so you can then wiggle it past the radius arm that partially covers it (don't grind on the arm itself though, that can weaken it).

 

[beefgravy]

Well after talking with my friend sounds like it shouldnt be to bad. Theres no way Im going to pull the diff. Im scared of that..lol Im just going to press the u joint out and remove the passenger side axel. That should do it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

pulling the front diff isn't a big deal, it's 10 bolts around the pumpkin, the pinch bolt and the 4 U joint bolts, maybe the drivers beam pivot bolt if things get tight. The first time I did it was on my explorer in my driveway to swap the 3.55 geared pumpkin out in favor of the 3.73 one I had in the garage, that took me most of a spring day. While I was there I put on manual hubs and repacked bearings.

Second time was on my truck (diff leaked pretty bad) and was on a rainy fall day, took me most of a day because I was tired of getting soaked and kept taking brakes, the radius arms, steering and passenger beam pivot were the only things holding the axle in. The limiting factor was my radius arm drop brackets don't have enough drop and max out VERY easy...

 

[brinker88]

Easiest/cleanest way I found to do it is drop the whole driver side beam/radius arm assy. after everything's torn down.

 

[legoms013]

Easiest/cleanest way I found to do it is drop the whole driver side beam/radius arm assy. after everything's torn down.

me too. Makes lining up the pig with wet RTV much easier....haven't had one leak yet by this method.

 

[Tarryn]

I am trying to install an Aussie Locker in my D35.
This may only require a simple solution I can't see, but it's giving me problems.
How does the cross bolt in the carrier come out? I have tried to remove the pin holding the crossbolt with no luck.
Special tools required or just more brute force?

 

[legoms013]

I am trying to install an Aussie Locker in my D35.
This may only require a simple solution I can't see, but it's giving me problems.
How does the cross bolt in the carrier come out? I have tried to remove the pin holding the crossbolt with no luck.
Special tools required or just more brute force?

Usually it is just a bolt...that the factory may have put red locktite on it so briefly heat it up then try and crack the bolt.

Also, some had roll pins, and you will have to use an appropriately sized punch to drive it out.

Once the roll pin or bolt is out, the cross pin should slide out by hand. If not put a big flat punch on it.