Fullwidth or TTB?

[redneckracerx]

I know this is gonna be long but I gotta give you guys the whole story... I have always been the biggest supporter of TTB. Everyone I wheel with tells me I'm crazy and to get that junk out of the front of my B2. I've got ALOT of time and effort into making it flex and still be streetable. I just swapped a 5-speed behind my modded 302 and it's starting to take it's toll on my driveline. Knuckle joints, stub shafts, d-shafts and hubs obviously. So my Idea was to put a fullwidth 9" and a fullwidth wristed 44 up front. I drive this thing on the road so the tires have to be covered. Is it possible? Should I stick with the 35? What else could I do?

 

[4x4junkie]

Those talking down on the TTB like that tend to be those that are ignorant.
However there are limits of course as to how much abuse any axle can handle...

A D44 is not much stronger than the D35 TTB due to having the same u-joints, and neckdowns on it's shafts, so if you're already having problems keeping these parts together on the 35, it might be better to just skip on up to a D60.
The 60 pretty much has bigger everything (shafts, hubs, u-joints, and so on). The strength difference between the D35 or D44 and a D60 is much like how it is between a D28 and the D35 (huge!).

Of course if you just want the fullwidth stance, a D44 swap is a good way to get it (could go fullwidth and TTB if you want, too

). I'd still suggest the 60 though if you're already breaking the 35.

Have you already done all the typical upgrades on your D35? (Jeep hubs, Spicer 5-760X u-joints, full-circle clips, etc.)?

 

[redneckracerx]

The reason I was thinking fullwidth d44 and 9" was because of the breakage and I can pick up the pair with a wristed arm for $400. It seems like a decent deal. Even though I would have to re-gear both of em... thinking... I didn't realize the d44 joints were the same. I did the 5-760x upgrade on my first set of shafts which I cracked the ear on the long side of the right hand shaft. I'm still running stock style ford manual hubs,and no cir-clips. That setup was ok with my auto, now that I have swapped to the 5-speed I guess there's more shock load and that's whats breaking parts? My rear is staying together nicely so I dont think I need much of an upgrade in the front. (rear axle is a 9" 31spline currie unit with detroit locker) Maybe if I take the time and clean up a good set of d35 shafts and do em right (joints + cir-clips) and put in the dough for a pair of hubs it will last?

 

[4x4junkie]

It's possible if you weren't using full circlips on the u-joint caps, one of them spit it's clip allowing the cap to walk out, resulting in the yoke failing.

I would try the full circlips on the 760s and the Jeep hubs. If you still keep breaking it, then IMO, it's D60 time.

However do make sure your longside shaft isn't binding up anywhere inside the passengerside beam (within the beam window, or the radius arm bolts that protrude inside), this can be a cause of axle breakage that sometimes goes unnoticed.
Best way to check is remove the coil springs on both sides, cycle one side up to the bumpstop with the other down at full droop and see if the passengerside shaft turns freely, Do the same while flexed in the other direction as well. Clearance with a grinder wherever needed.

 

[redneckracerx]

I never thought about the coil and rad. arm bolts. I ground the window for clearance, never realized the bolts could be an issue... New found hope for the d35 frontend

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, a telltale indication of the shaft binding is you're jacking one side up to the bumpstop, and the other side starts to go up along with it.

I had to take a good ½ inch off each of my bolts.

 

[CopyKat]

Weak D35 hubs can be remedied by going to a D44 TTB knuckle. (D44 outer)

 

[4x4junkie]

Weak D35 hubs can be remedied by going to a D44 TTB knuckle. (D44 outer)

Or just the #37780 Warn Jeep hubs.