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Gas in crankcase


Can-am

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If anyone has some ideas on what my issue is it would be greatly appreciated. I have a 94 4.0 ranger that has a massive over fueling problem. It dumps extreme amounts of gas into the crankcase and out of the exhaust. I have cleaned the original injectors, and replaced them. I have also cleaned the Maf and Iat and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. When you connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and pressure it up without starting, the gauge quickly loses pressure. It holds the correct fuel pressure when running. Thanks
 


rusty ol ranger

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Sounds like a stuck injector.

Prime it a few times then pull the plugs and see which ones are soaked in fuel
 

Can-am

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Ok thanks. I did that and the plugs were dry.
 

RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Looks like you have covered all the bases on an external issue

Time to pull out the computer, engine bay drivers side down low on firewall next to inner fender

Open it up and replace the 3 radial capacitors, under $5 fix

Picture here of a Ford EEC-IV computer with covers off: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

The 3 Blue capacitors can be seen, not always in the same spot, depends on year
These Caps last 20+ years but WILL fail and usually leak, which can cause any number of issues

I had to replace my 1994 caps a few years ago, also fueling issues, been fine ever since
Mine actually "looked OK" but when I moved one with my finger it just fell over, one wire was corrode off, turned out to be two in that state, but replaced all 3

If you live in or near a city Google: (town name) electronic component supply
That should come up with local suppliers of capacitors
Take pictures of your circuit board and Caps, they have to go back in the same way they came out, and at the same location/value, they do have a + and - side

Black Caps will last longer and same price, all caps have a uF and V values on the side
You need to Match uF exactly
But you can use a higher V value(voltage)
i.e. 16uF 16v cap can be replaced with a 16uF 25v model or 50v or 100v
It can NOT be replaced with a 16uF 10v

These computer circuit boards are sprayed with a "resin" once they are fully assembled to make them more weather/moisture resistant
Just a heads up, not really in the way to replace these and to clean up any "leaks"

If you don't solder or have a friend that does, a Stereo/radio repair shop can replace these


Not your issue but just a heads up
I am older now and didn't replace my clutch on my 1994 the last time, had a shop do it
When they reassembled it they REVERSED the left and right O2 sensor connectors
Ran fine after I left, then started to run like crap after 5 to 8 min
But going up a hill at Wide Open Throttle it ran GREAT
Took me almost a full day to get that one figured out, but it did finally turn on CEL and set 2 codes
Lean on right
Rich on left
WTF?
But that clued me in, O2s are only used after warm up and are not used at WOT(wide open throttle)
Only 1 wire color difference on the truck side of the two O2 wiring/connectors
Honest mistake but................
 
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Uncle Gump

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Did you buy this truck with the problem? Or did it run fine until it didn't?

I just ask because there are a bunch of crappy cheap injectors out there.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Does the 4.0 use an fuel pressure regulator like the 2.9?
 

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Does the 4.0 use an fuel pressure regulator like the 2.9?
Yes, all fuel injected Rangers 1985 thru 1997 used Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine with a Return fuel line attached, used 35psi fuel pressure as average

1998 and up Rangers had the FPR put in the gas tank with the pump, and no Return line at the engine end, ran 60psi fuel pressure average
 

rusty ol ranger

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Yes, all fuel injected Rangers 1985 thru 1997 used Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine with a Return fuel line attached, used 35psi fuel pressure as average

1998 and up Rangers had the FPR put in the gas tank with the pump, and no Return line at the engine end, ran 60psi fuel pressure average
That might be a possibilty then.

Shit...nevermind. im batting 0 today. He changed that and the injectors already.

Im out lol
 

Uncle Gump

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That might be a possibilty then.

Shit...nevermind. im batting 0 today. He changed that and the injectors already.

Im out lol
Doesn't mean those things aren't causing the problem. Lots of junk parts out there. It's also why I asked if it ran well until it didn't.
 

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Yes, "New part" just means one more thing to test, lol
 

Can-am

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Did you buy this truck with the problem? Or did it run fine until it didn't?

I just ask because there are a bunch of crappy cheap injectors out there.
I got the truck last summer. It ran perfect, and then was parked for about 3 months. I went to start it, and it has had all of these issues since.
 

RonD

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Uncle Gump

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Pop the vacuum hose off the regulator. Is it wet with fuel?

If not... I would hink you have bad injectors. But I would check what Ron suggested with the ECM.

We're they the cheapest injectors on Amazon or eBay?
 

Can-am

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The vacuum hose is dry. The injectors were pretty cheap off of Amazon, but they had decent reviews. What’s the best way to tell if your injectors are leaking?
 

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