Has anyone tried to..

[John Smith]

Make a 2.8L run by just swapping out the 2150A for a non-feedback variant (2100, 2150)? I couldn't really find any info on that. I just bought this 84 that has a 2.8L basically stock, and before i completely "duraspark it", ( I may just put a 4banger in it i have already)..and buy the dizzy, i have been thinking of just swapping out the 2150A for one of the varaints i already have, (2100's) and see how it runs. I like the quick spark of the TFI and the possible adjustability of it as it drives..(if it will still respond)..I guess the curiosity of seeing just how many sensors i can remove from the TFI system and still make it run..and how well it will run is kinda on my mind. AND if i don't have to buy that "rebuilt" 78 pinto dizz.till i see if this 2.8 block/heads is/are sound.... anyone tried this?

 

[dangerranger83]

The thing is, the factory stuff is meant to all work togetheer. If one thing doesnt work right then the other stuff wont be able to do its job.

You unplug the TFI plug, you dont get spark advance/disadvance and if you unplug the computer then no emissions stuff will work and still no spark advance/disadvance.

If your looking to put a 4 banger under the hood, get ready to change out the bellhousing and maybe the clutch setup too along with a 4 banger starter.

If your in need of a duraspark dizzy, I have a used one in my garage. Its a motorcraft one if you are interested.

 

[John Smith]

Thanks 4 the reply man..

I have read your posts and i appreciate your input especially regarding these 2.8's..
Great little motor isn't it...I have enjoyed what work i have done to this newly acquired 2.8 that I'm working on. What i had in mind was only changing the carb at the moment leaving the TFI hooked up and seeing how it ran. I had to fix a water leak today, and re-do the thermostat housing situation and start it up w/o some sensors hooked up. I bought this thinking i would install a 2.3L that i have (I have the correct bell as well) if the 2.8L had any issues. I'll check the compression 2marrow to further check it out. I appreciate the offer on a Dizz but i have bought one..and i have the spare carbs. I just thought that if it worked well i may not change the dizz till next spring if it ran ok w/o the usuall 2150A carb installed. It does seem to have a slight miss so I'll check out wassup w that before making any decisions. I have kinda wondered if many of these older engines may suffer from modern oil abuse( lack of proper additives for cam wear..ZDDP)..but as long as it hits on all 6...and has decent compression i won't complain...

thanks again for the comeback and the offer of a dizz..

The thing is, the factory stuff is meant to all work togetheer. If one thing doesnt work right then the other stuff wont be able to do its job.

You unplug the TFI plug, you dont get spark advance/disadvance and if you unplug the computer then no emissions stuff will work and still no spark advance/disadvance.

If your looking to put a 4 banger under the hood, get ready to change out the bellhousing and maybe the clutch setup too along with a 4 banger starter.

If your in need of a duraspark dizzy, I have a used one in my garage. Its a motorcraft one if you are interested.

 

[dangerranger83]

They are known for oil burning when they get to higher mileage do to the valve glides wear out. Now will it run with the other carb, yes.

Sent from my A43 using Tapatalk

 

[John Smith]

This one has 115,000 miles on the speedo..

and all indications from the owner is that it is original as is and seems to run well after a plug change. ( the grandson has put some NGK pulgs in it that were not funktioning well..) After checking hte compression, mostly all 168+, I think i'll put a 2100 Autolite on it I have. It is a "1.01" venturi variant basically built for a 221/239/260 falcon. With 46 jets we'll see how it runs...It surely will do as well as a "1.08" version i would think...( i have heard that a ".98" version is even better..)...and I don't want to buy one right now anyway.

I'll probably get to the valve stems seals soon although it does'nt seem to be needing that as bad as you would think right now..
It's going to be a developing saga I think..

They are known for oil burning when they get to higher mileage do to the valve glides wear out. Now will it run with the other carb, yes.

Sent from my A43 using Tapatalk

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I run a 2150 1.08 with #46 jets and works just fine. Your TFI ignition will not work properly without the TPS It will run on base timing full time you will need the duraspark ignition. All I would be concerned about with the carb is you adjust the idle air with a vacuum guage or a tach you want the highest rpm or vacuum in hg.

 

[John Smith]

I run a 2150 1.08 with #46 jets and works just fine. Your TFI ignition will not work properly without the TPS It will run on base timing full time you will need the duraspark ignition. All I would be concerned about with the carb is you adjust the idle air with a vacuum guage or a tach you want the highest rpm or vacuum in hg.

I kinda had that supsicion about the TPS. I have the "spark" parts so I think I'll wait for a warmer winter day or two and get that all done probably. I know it's been running rich..So I'll dig out the vacuum gauge and deal with that. The choke wasn't opening at all so it needs some goin over too I'm sure that'll help. I didn't realize it originally ran with a choke relay..I'll have to chase that thru.. Or maybe run it off the alt. thanks for the comments...All in all it seems to run strong with the right plugs in it...We'll see how reliably it runs as is with a little attention while i gather the parts for my 2100 "1.01" refresh..

 

[dangerranger83]

I have a manual choke and rarely have to use it for starting up (until it gets very cold out) I just pump her as I crank her over and sit in the truck it warm her up by keeping my foot on the gas. I used to have a high idle with the manual choke then one day it went away but being that its a manual transmission, its safest to just be with it when its running.

 

[John Smith]

Actually a manual choke is what i should do

I have a manual choke kit for another carb. It seems kinda appropriate to go "old school" for this late 70's version of a 2.8L..

I have a manual choke and rarely have to use it for starting up (until it gets very cold out) I just pump her as I crank her over and sit in the truck it warm her up by keeping my foot on the gas. I used to have a high idle with the manual choke then one day it went away but being that its a manual transmission, its safest to just be with it when its running.

 

[dangerranger83]

I got my setup from advance auto parts, its one of those HELP kit things, cost like $12. Had to fab a bracket for it to hold the cable under the hood, but works perfectly as it should.

 

[schmoo]

i use an old 2100 with 1.01. i used the electric choke from the
2150, as i live where it is cold an a manual choke is just too
primitive. i had to cut the fork deeper with a hacksaw where
it connects with the thermostat spring, and cut screw slots
in the three screws that hold the housing on, but it works fine.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Be sure and plug the vacuum leak to the choke it comes through the thickest of the three bolts that mount the choke to the carb. A manual choke does not seal where you can just cap it where the preheater tube connects if you look close you can find it easier with the carb out. I believe in a rebuild kit there is a small oval gasket with two holes in it where that gasket goes would be the best place to squirt some liquid metal or somthing in to plug the leak.

 

[John Smith]

good reminder ...

Be sure and plug the vacuum leak to the choke it comes through the thickest of the three bolts that mount the choke to the carb. A manual choke does not seal where you can just cap it where the preheater tube connects if you look close you can find it easier with the carb out. I believe in a rebuild kit there is a small oval gasket with two holes in it where that gasket goes would be the best place to squirt some liquid metal or somthing in to plug the leak.

Another way is just to use the 2150A or similar later choke houseing that has the "undrilled" slug..that along with that gasket will plug the hole..which is what I have done..

(I actually kinda cringed at the thought of just filling that hole..I have found that some people value these older carbs enuf to want to keep'm usable for their value sake..Jeeps, older Mustangs etc..)

 

[small ranger]

why not duraspark it and run a manuel choke holly 350 cfm carb? I got all my stuff for maybe $150 total it took maybe 2 hrs to set up and adjust and never had any problems. I ran the truck in weather as cold as -10 F. Set up the timing to 15-12 deg dtdc and let it RIP!!!!

 

[John Smith]

Be patient with me if i seem out of touch....

why not duraspark it and run a manuel choke holly 350 cfm carb? I got all my stuff for maybe $150 total it took maybe 2 hrs to set up and adjust and never had any problems. I ran the truck in weather as cold as -10 F. Set up the timing to 15-12 deg dtdc and let it RIP!!!!

Sounds like what you've got going is working for you..and it's all good..

I'm probably a little ancient geneologically compared to the average age posting here but ..we DO have car stuff in common..

As an owner of a 2.8L that happens to power a BII 4wd, i find myself in one of 3 different groups that post here I think maybe..

A 2WD group who drives a PU maybe even a low-rider that maybe power but yet some economy may play a part of our tuning goals...

A 4WD group with Bigger tires and lower gears to venture over rocks and ford the rivers..

And those who just want a "running dependable cheap veh that "uncle Bill" handed down for them to "fix-up" for transportation whether 2wd or 4wd

One thing I think we all have in common is a good little motor with a few freckles that given it's age now and it's "last known" method of fueling/ignition is experiencling challenges to stay drivable and tunable as parts deteriorate etc.

Before this 2.8L/2.6L became puter controlled it was carbuerated by a Holley/Weber 5200 variant in a 1974 Mercury Capri, Mustang II with a set points in a distributor. Hardley a 350CFM carb although it can be turned infinatley for up to about 240CFM I am told.

Trying to run this 2.8L w/o a puter and all of it's smog controls seems to lower fuel mileage greatly..

I'm on a quest to have mine running at peak efficiency not being "over-fueled" as they say..call it a challenge but i guess maybe it's my own interest in what makes a motor run and run well is what is taking me there..

Of course you can put a cam in any motor..and build it for more compression and more air flow and then use more fuel..but I don't think this 2.8L with stock cam needs more than about 190 CFM or so for my use ...

It seems that for the most part we have chosen to put a band-aid on this motor by "durasparking" it..w/o looking at a more efficient fuel source..there again probably not important to someone who just wants to "make it across the pond or mud bog..(not saying that's not important).

I just like the concept of an efficient A/F ratio in a gasoline powered veh..isn't that what fuel injections does for us?...it supposedly maintains that A/F ratio...well, the carb/spark curve/air flow tuning is what makes a carbed engine run..and tuning for excellence is what makes it more perfect. The difference with a carb is the driver does the tuning not the computer..

The good news is..no matter how crummy or far off the A/F ratio is..a carbed/sparked rig generally starts, runs from gas pump to gas pump..with little or no aggravation other than spark plug changes..and a few hicupps and belches now and then...and some black smoke occasionally.

So..on with tuning..no matter what carb combo you have..

I like the idea of owning a carbed motor again...and I also drive a high MPG 2.9L which I like as well..but I do like the idea of being able to get around with the simplicity of a few hot wires and some gasoline..or with larger jets..in my old-school carburetor...even grain alcohol if need be as Henry Ford designed his 4 banger to run on.....