Help Wire Fire!!!

[Baja Ranger]

Long story short, I have a truck that I got dirt cheap due to a previous wire fire of the owner's stupidity, lucky it didn't burn up the whole truck.

It is a 85 2.8L MT 4X4

My plan is to convert it to a Duraspark conversion and I have all the parts on their way. I have completely removed all of the OEM wiring harness, signals and all. I plan to rewire all of that and am not worried about it. Also plan to wire the Duraspark simple toggle on "hot" and "push-button" start.

But where I still have a few questions is:

1) where should the existing alternator wires go now, can I put them on a simply toggle switch? is it a + or - signal ?

2) Don't I need some sort of "voltage regulator" if I reuse the OEM alternator ?

3) How high of amp fuse should I put on the "hot" wire and "ignition" wire? is 20 amp - 60 amp ok?

4) I have the new coil (listed in the tech info) on its way, if I use this I need to install a "ballast resistor" also correct? Or use the current TFI Coil with no "ballast resistor"?


Any other help or pointers would be GREATLY appreciated

 

[Baja Ranger]

Does anyone think I should post this thread elsewhere as I know it does not only pertain to the 2.8L and might have some more traffic else where?

Trying to get this sucker up and running by this weekend, have most everything already done. Just these few questions...


thanks,

 

[RonD]

If you look here
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/index.htm

You will find electrical diagrams for alternator hook up, "charging system '83-85"
Yes it looks like an external voltage regulator

Also other diagrams with fuse ratings
Fuse size is important, too big and you will have another fire


Most coils are 6volts, that's what the ballast resistor is for, takes 12v down to 6v, when key is turned to start(or button is pushed) the coil is given 12v to get engine started, then when key is released(button released) the 12v is cut and ballast 6v is used.
The key switch would feed the 12v in Start and then 6v in Run via the ballast resistor.

On old cars it was a common that car would start then die when key was released, bad ballast resistor or ballast wire(chevy used a wire)
Or car would crank but not fire, when key was released it would fire or backfire, 12volt wire circuit was bad.

 

[Baja Ranger]

Thanks for replying RonD, I have all those diagrams printed off and have been looking at them for the last month pulling my teeth out trying to figure it out since that is basically all I have to go on.


Question 1) & 2)

So In order to reuse the OEM alternator I have to use the OEM voltage regulator or get an aftermarket alternator which has this built it correct?

I don't know if the voltage regulator I have even still works or if it's fried. If it works, it looks like I just ground regulator and run switched + to Field switch A of the regulator and + to the stator and rectifier assembly of the alternator. What about 904 LG/R , does this need + as well?

Question 3) On all of the diagrams it is only listed as 16 gauge orange "fuse link E,D,W,ect ? It does not list the fuse rating?

Question 4) I get the jist of a ballast resistor. Which would be the better option of the two. Coil part # mentioned in Duraspark swap with ballast resistor or use the TFI coil no resistor?

 

[RonD]

A fusible link is a wire that acts as a fuse, so the gauge of the wire is all that will be given.
These are more forgiving than a fuse

Dorman makes fusible links in most gauges, its just a short wire, usually with an eyelet on one end and a butt connector on the other.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24907-85624.aspx


Yes, an alternator with on-board regulator would be better, look at the later model wiring diagrams for those, pretty straight forward wiring-wise.
The Ford 3G(3rd generation) alternator seems to be a popular upgrade so lots of How-tos on those for most model Rangers.
You may need to change the pulley from serpentine to
V" belt on newer alternators.

TFI coil is fine, MDS is a little hotter, I think you need the ballast with either though.
Some say no, some have lost a coil after a few hundred miles.
I have never done the conversion but many here have, so there should be lots of "duraspark" threads

 

[kimcrwbr1]

There are alot of high output one wire alternators on ebay with the V-belt pully. I have been thinking about upgrading myself just wondering what one would work with my 2.8.

 

[Baja Ranger]

This one should fit the 2.8 and keep the Oem serpentine pulley system correct? Says gm case with ford mounting. Then just wire it to + side of battery and done.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7068/overview/make/ford

 

[RonD]

That comes with a "V" belt which is what you should have on your alternator now.

And if you have the standard Ford starter solenoid next to the battery, you would connect the one wire to the post that has the direct connection to the + battery post, easier that way.
And I would add a fusible link(or circuit breaker) to that wire just in case.
That alternator is rated at 100 amps, so for a 3' to 5' wire run you should use 10 gauge wire.

 

[Baja Ranger]

Thanks for all the help guy's, I ordered the alternator and some 16 gauge fuse links, also a fuse distribution box for my accessory's.

One more question about the ballast resistor on the coil. Which external ballast resistor?

.8Ω

1.4Ω

 

[Baja Ranger]

Buddy has a spare TFI MSD master blaster coil, can I just use this and not worry about a ballast resistor all together????

Thanks,

 

[RonD]

You can run any coil without an external resistor(ballast), the issue is the heat that builds up in the coil and in the module.
Generally you want above 1.5ohms total resistance, the MDS coil is .6ohms the .8ohm resistor would be fine.
1.4ohms on a 12v line should be 8-9volts at the coil when running down the road.

Not running an external ballast is fine as long as you place the coil and module where they can get air flow and stay cooler, the external resistor bleeds 1/4 to 1/2 the heat when used, which is one reason it is used.
Internal heat kills coils and modules.

People who don't use external resistors and never have a problem probably just have better air flow where the components are located, they often locate them on the wheel wells, well away from added engine heat.
But on paper you need the ballast resistor.

 

[Baja Ranger]

Looks like I wont have the alternator until next week sometime, so I will just try and get all wiring done I can as well as the new distributor in this weekend.

I will just install the ballast resistor on the coil in the "run" position for piece of mind.

Question : After this is installed a diod goes on the current "run" circuit after this resistor correct ?(on the coil + side after ballast resistor and before start by-pass wire)


Question : Just so I am correct on finding TDC on this thing, pull cylinder #1 spark plug and manually turn engine clockwise until compression is felt, harmonic balancer should read 0 and inside rotor cap should be at the 11'oclock position, install new distributor/rotor at same position. Does this all sound correct ?

I know how to set timing with a light, but what if there are no timing marks visible, any tips or just go by ear?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I have been running the stock TFI coil and autolite single platinum plugs without a hitch since the conversion. Probably the best improvment being new valve guide seals.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sounds like you have a plan it usually takes a couple three times to get the rotor in the correct position. You need to line the oil pump up so get it close to falling all the way down and turn the crank with a wrench to line up the oil pump then go back to TDC on the compression stroke and see if you get 11 oclock on the rotor. If you decide to turn the engine over with the starter to drop the dizzy be sure and pull the rotor off it can snap your finger right off if your not careful.

 

[Baja Ranger]

My carb is a Motorcraft 2150 1.08 venturi's #50 jets Feedback with custom metering block, set mixture screws to 2.5 turn out from seated.

I just want to make sure I have this correct where to run vacuum and where to cap off.

A: Fuel bowl vent = put a hose and run to inner fender for vent
B: PCP Temperature Compensated pump = CAP OFF
C Power valve port = Hook up with a T line on intake manifold vacuum & distributor advance ??????

1: PCV = hook up to PCV port
2: Choke pull-down port = CAP OFF
3: EVAP (evaporative emissions) port = CAP OFF
4: Power valve port = Hook up with a T line on intake manifold vacuum & distributor advance ??????
5: Port = CAP OFF if you have this


Does this all look correct?