hey everyone

[h3o]

well i just picked up a 88 2.9 4x4 ranger, now i want to do all the maintenance that i can before it gets too late. anyways it has 200xxx miles on it and ive checked compression and thats good, looked for signs of a cracked head and none so far. heres a list of what i am going to do

- replace oil pan gasket (its leaking, is it a pita?)
- replace both valve cover gaskets (leaking)
- oil change (20w50 cause of the mileage)
- replace gear fluid ( dont know the last time it was changed)
- spark plugs
- wires
- cap
- rotor
- fuel filter

now is there anything else that goes really wrong with these trucks? i have some decent knowledge with autos but nothing really this old. i might buy refurbished heads for $400 for a just incase and the do a rebuild on the top end.

also is there a higher amperage then 90? what years came with the 135?

 

[MAKG]

Replacing the oil pan gasket is a huge PITA on a 4WD. Though some folks will argue about it, to replace it effectively and safely requires you to remove the engine from the vehicle. Make DANG sure it's really the oil pan leaking, as anything above it (including the known-leaky valve covers) can drip oil onto it and make it look leaky.

90A is plenty for stock equipment. If you aren't having brownout issues, don't mess with it.

Replace ALL the fluids -- crankcase oil, transmission oil, both differentials, cooling system,and BRAKE FLUID (just everyone seems to miss that), and repack the front bearings and lubricate every grease fitting. Replace the rad cap and thermostat with the coolant.

It wouldn't hurt to replace fuel and air filters.

Inspecting and regapping plugs, cap, and rotor is called for, along with all the belts and hoses. Replace only if damaged or worn out. Check belt deflection; it's common for folks to overtighten 2.9Ls. Don't bother replacing spark plug wires (or the coil) unless you can hear arcing in the radio.

Most importantly, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. DO NOT take your top end apart unless you are repairing a problem. You can MAKE problems. Though it's fine to inspect.

 

[h3o]

ya im more then sure it is the oil pan gasket, looks like they tried to repair it cause i see a whole crap load of gasket maker on it. So regardless im going to fix that. Also belts are brand new so i dont need to worry about that, it has a brand new master cylinder and brakes all redone 5000 miles ago. The reason for the top end rebuild is basically to assure me of the cracking head syndrome that happens with these trucks that i read. And about the alternator, it doesnt really charge the battery for some reason so i figured if i could upgrade now it would be better then later.

 

[MAKG]

Rule out wiring before going after the alternator.

"Brakes redone" can mean many things, some of which don't touch the fluid. If it's not CLEAR, flush it out with new brake fluid. Your RABS modulator valve will thank you.

If you aren't finding evidence of cracked heads, why are you assuming you have cracked heads? They don't wear out (at least not that way). Go there when you have a mysterious loss of coolant AND either or both of snot in the oil cap or white smoke out the tailpipe, with a fully warmed engine.

 

[h3o]

brake fluid is a nice golden color so yes it is newer, it is the alternator, i am drawing the voltage right off the coil of the alternator and at idle it is only 11.2v at higher rpms it only goes to 11.8

also the head situtaion like i said is just an assurance of mine, yes i know my heads are not cracked but i want to elminate the weak sides of the head.

 

[h3o]

Rule out wiring before going after the alternator.

"Brakes redone" can mean many things, some of which don't touch the fluid. If it's not CLEAR, flush it out with new brake fluid. Your RABS modulator valve will thank you.

If you aren't finding evidence of cracked heads, why are you assuming you have cracked heads? They don't wear out (at least not that way). Go there when you have a mysterious loss of coolant AND either or both of snot in the oil cap or white smoke out the tailpipe, with a fully warmed engine.

i think your misunderstanding my post. i dont have a cracked head, i understand what you are saying were if it aint broke then dont break it. But I am more then confident in my skills with the rebuild, it assures me that i wont have a cracked head due to weak journals in the future which is what i want.

 

[MAKG]

There has been at least one reliable report on this board of cracking previously-good 2.9L heads due to correct head bolt torquing alone. And this guy (AllanD) is a highly experienced mechanic. It's not about skill (beyond a certain point); it's about rolling the dice about which castings got a tiny bit thinner in just the wrong place.

New heads won't buy you a millisecond of time. If they aren't cracked right now, there is no reason to go after them.

Make sure your "common" lead is on the alternator body, as it is fairly common for a bad ground strap/wire to cause this issue. If it is, then it is called for to have the alternator TESTED. A bad battery (or another excessive load) can cause a terrific drain on the alternator, and create brownout conditions that way. Most auto parts stores can test alternators for you. It's fairly unlikely unless there is evidence of a lot of heat somewhere but worth checking out (it's usually free).

 

[h3o]

There has been at least one reliable report on this board of cracking previously-good 2.9L heads due to correct head bolt torquing alone. And this guy (AllanD) is a highly experienced mechanic. It's not about skill (beyond a certain point); it's about rolling the dice about which castings got a tiny bit thinner in just the wrong place.

New heads won't buy you a millisecond of time. If they aren't cracked right now, there is no reason to go after them.

Make sure your "common" lead is on the alternator body, as it is fairly common for a bad ground strap/wire to cause this issue. If it is, then it is called for to have the alternator TESTED. A bad battery (or another excessive load) can cause a terrific drain on the alternator, and create brownout conditions that way. Most auto parts stores can test alternators for you. It's fairly unlikely unless there is evidence of a lot of heat somewhere but worth checking out (it's usually free).

but are these heads the same design as the factory or the aftermarket ones? these are world heads that are refurbished. and yes i am more then sure its a bad alternator, like i said im testing with my meter and the peak of the alternator output is at 11.8 and this is off the chasis ground and the coil of the alternator.

 

[MAKG]

If it has been refurbished, it has already broken.

Probably exactly where you don't want it.

It is possible to weld cast iron, but it is far more difficult than sheet steel. And it will almost certainly introduce permanent internal stresses into the head. I've had one of these last for over a hundred thousand miles, but I'll say it again: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. There is ALWAYS some risk.

 

[h3o]

If it has been refurbished, it has already broken.

Probably exactly where you don't want it.

It is possible to weld cast iron, but it is far more difficult than sheet steel. And it will almost certainly introduce permanent internal stresses into the head. I've had one of these last for over a hundred thousand miles, but I'll say it again: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. There is ALWAYS some risk.

thanks for the suggestion but again i am probably going to do it.

 

[h3o]

well yay i went to do an emissions check and guess what, FAIL!!!!! High hydrocarbons i hope its just a fouled plug or something.

 

[MAKG]

You did an emissions test with a browning-out electrical system?

It's not too surprising that it failed.

And are you SURE that the battery cables and other grounds are good?

 

[h3o]

You did an emissions test with a browning-out electrical system?

It's not too surprising that it failed.

And are you SURE that the battery cables and other grounds are good?

already fixed bud, it was the alternator like suspected just got a stock replacement 90 amps is more then enough for a simple work truck like mine. i didnt do the full tune up cause i had to get the truck inspected it was my last day to transfer the title before getting a penalty, stupid washington law only allows 15 days

 

[MAKG]

If it's close, change the oil and try again, this time with synthetic.

Make sure the thermostat works (it will enrich the mixture if it overcools).

Of course, check the spark plugs and run the self tests.

It makes a difference if the high HC was at idle or 2500 RPM or both (or at what speed if this is the dyno test), and if there are other failure points (say, incorrect base timing).

 

[h3o]

well i was ridiculously high in the 25mph test, limit was 150 and im at like 1300 so imma test fuel pressure when the weather clears, also do a tune up. and i guess im gonna change the cats since they're probably gone from the raw fuel.