2.3L ('02-'11) How many hours did it take you to change timing chain on 2.3?

[Garth Libre]

I have 121,000 miles now on my 2010 2.3, and I keep reading I can wait until I hear chain noise or bad performance indicating chain pin wear or gear wear. I see it's an interference engine and I can buy all the parts including the oil pump chain for under $100 (a bargain considering those are prices I remember from 20 years ago or more). I've done only 4 timing chains and belts in my time so I'm no expert but I feel I am average speed for an amateur. How long did it take you to change out the chain and gears on this particular engine.

 

[pjtoledo]

please read up on the procedure, it's quite involved.

there is no key setting the harmonic balancer or either of the cam shafts in place.
they are held by the friction pressure of special diamond impregnated washers.

the instant you loosen the harmonic balancer bolt you basically have to re-time the entire engine.

that means a special tool to locate the cams (can be fabricated), and a special pin to locate the crank.

valve lift is only 0.291 for the exhaust, 0.311 for the intake. those are at zero lash, actual will be less by the lash amount.
then subtract head gasket thickness.

EDIT: I just looked at the head, it is definitely an interference engine.

 

[Blmpkn]

I thought the 2.3 duratec chains were more or less a lifetime part.

Not like that "lifetime" trans fluid mind you... lifetime as in if the oils kept clean it'll literally never need replacing.

 

[pjtoledo]

mine were at 367,000 when I pulled the engine last spring.
the tensioner was only half way out.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I've never heard of an engine needing a "routine" timing chain change. You replace it if and only if there's a problem. Otherwise, leave well enough alone!

If a timing chain is worn enough that it jumps a tooth, you have way bigger problems than just the chain.

Now, about timing belts... Don't get me started.

 

[Plum Ranger XLT]

I have almost 194,000 miles on my 2008 2.3L and haven't had any issues with the timing chain as of yet and I have been real good of keeping the oil changed between 4,000 to 5,000 miles.

 

[Bill]

Generally, timing chains last the life of the engine if the oil is changed regularly. When oil changes are neglected several things can occur. One is that varnish or sludge can plug the very small oil galley in the tensioners. If this happens there will not be enough oil pressure to push the piston against the timing chain guide and the end result of this is a loose chain. The other problem is old oil becomes acidic and has a lot of abrasive particles (mostly carbon) that wear the links in the timing chain. The end result is the chain becomes loose. Some people incorrectly diagnose this as a stretched timing chain when they should be diagnosing it as a worn timing chain due to insufficient oil changes.

I wouldn't worry about the timing chain if you have changed the oil. They can just "go," at any time, but I think I've read about a total of five posts and seen one Youtube video about having to replace the timing chain in this engine. One was in a Mazda 6 wherein the poster bragged about extended oil changes. Another was in a Tribute that had so much sludge in it that I'm surprised it made it to 100,000 miles. The Youtube video is in a Ranger, but no information was available to determine if it had anything to do with lack of oil changes. If you look at Youtube videos regarding timing chain problems across all engines and brands it is quite obvious that most of the failures are due to not changing the oil regularly.

 

[Garth Libre]

For do it yourselfers like myself, I can't imagine letting 10,000 miles go by without an oil change. I change the oil at about 4,000 miles as I consider the cost of oil and a filter and even the time it takes to do it minimal. My Mazda 3 takes all synthetic oil and even that I refuse to let go to a full 10,000 recommended miles. It's the same with my tractor and my lawn mower. Cheaping out on oil changes seems like false economy. Now, I'm concerned about my PCV valve and somehow I will get the courage and determination to change that out as well as the relatively easy O2 sensors. You can't live forever but it's pointless to kill your vehicles just because you're a tad lazy

 

[pjtoledo]

the hardest part of changing the PCV is removing the retaining ring without destroying it..
it snaps down over 2 bumps.

clean the area above it first, debris can fall into the crankcase.

 

[Garth Libre]

Are these retaining rings readily available from our parts store or is it something we have to go and beg for at our local Ford dealership if we break it?

 

[Garth Libre]

I just remembered, the video I saw shows no plastic retaining ring but instead a metal clip that you pull towards you and then an easy release.

 

[Garth Libre]

the hardest part of changing the PCV is removing the retaining ring without destroying it..
it snaps down over 2 bumps.

clean the area above it first, debris can fall into the crankcase.


View attachment 83593

I was finally able to take a photo of mine and it does indeed look identical, even in color to yours. I suppose it means these purple ones could be original equipment. Now, the question remains - isn't it easier to just remove the wheel well rubber cover and access the valve that way? I guess as long as I'm going to spend an hour or so doing this, I should also replace the hose and take off the little oil baffle and clean that out as well.

 

[pjtoledo]

the oil baffle is a maintenance item, I seldom replaced mine.
the pic is a 2010 Fusion 2.5 Duratec. the 2.3 in my 2005 ranger also looks identical.
the PVC hose is a 2-piece item, goes up to the port at the top rear of the valve cover.
I frequently remove the wheel well liner, putting it back on presents it's own set of challenges.


try this thread for hose routing.

2.3L ('02-'11) - 2005/2002 duratec engine pics, hoses | The Ranger Station