gnarlycharlie4u
Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2009
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 8
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Virginia
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.5L
- Transmission
- Manual
The following pertains to my 2000 2.5L w/coil springs.
I couldn't take the groaning or creaking during turning anymore so I finally decided to take a look at my front suspension and diagnose the problem.
All of the boots on all of my ball joints were destroyed. The boots can be replaced if the joints are in decent shape. But this was not the case.
Both of my upper ball joints were in bad shape (metal shavings inside what was left of the boot) and both of my lower ball joints were in extremely bad shape (ball visibly worn and scored).
So I ordered up a set of Moog Upper Control Arms from Advance Auto Parts (thanks again Amy for the discount!) and got to work.
*****************************************
What you will need:
Note: before even attempting to remove any bolts or nuts I highly recommend drenching them in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. It makes life easy.
Removing the Upper Control Arm
Installation is basically the reverse of the removal process.
*I know this should go without saying but make sure you use the right control arm on the right side and the left on the left...
That's it! Looks easy right?
I couldn't take the groaning or creaking during turning anymore so I finally decided to take a look at my front suspension and diagnose the problem.
All of the boots on all of my ball joints were destroyed. The boots can be replaced if the joints are in decent shape. But this was not the case.
Both of my upper ball joints were in bad shape (metal shavings inside what was left of the boot) and both of my lower ball joints were in extremely bad shape (ball visibly worn and scored).
So I ordered up a set of Moog Upper Control Arms from Advance Auto Parts (thanks again Amy for the discount!) and got to work.
*****************************************
What you will need:
- PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench! Maybe both. Maybe multiple cans (if you're from New England or near the beach)
- A (very small) Pitman Arm puller. Advance Auto Parts rents them for free (deposit required)
- A torque wrench ($20 from Harbor Freight and tools)
- I also recommend a 3ft lug wrench, metric impact socket set, and a solid adjustable wrench or two for those places where sockets just won't go.
Note: before even attempting to remove any bolts or nuts I highly recommend drenching them in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. It makes life easy.
Removing the Upper Control Arm
- Loosen the lugs, jack up the truck, secure it on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
- Place a jack under end of the LCA. Jack it up slightly; just enough to support the weight of the suspension. Make sure it is not in the way because it will remain there for the entire removal process. (I like to use the emergency jack b/c it's small and not invasive.)
- Remove the pinch bolt nut from the spindle (steering knuckle)
- Use the puller to separate the UCA from the spindle. This can be a PITA! Sometimes it takes a little bit more than just the puller... like a 3ft crowbar.
But it will definitely take a lot of patience and a lot of PB blaster.
- Remove the pivot bolts that attach the UCA to the frame while making a note of their position so you are sure you put them back the same way.
Installation is basically the reverse of the removal process.
*I know this should go without saying but make sure you use the right control arm on the right side and the left on the left...
- When inserting the ball joint into the knuckle you can hammer it down with a rubber maillot. If you use a hammer be sure to cover the ball joint or UCA with something so the hammer does not strike it directly.
- Once everything is assembled, put the wheel back on and lower the vehicle. Then use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts down to the proper spec.
That's it! Looks easy right?