Im swapping an M5OD-R1HD for my M5OD-R1

[-Nathan-]

Ok, heres the story.

When I bought my truck ages ago, the input bearings were a little noisy.
Fast forward much abuse....
Output bearings are noisy, inputs are REALLY noisy, and 2nd and 3rd syncros are non-existant.

I changed my trany fluid again, and put some Lucas trans fix, it quieted it up, but its only a band-aid solution.

I had originally planned on rebuilding my trans, but I found a tranny from a 2007 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 with only 33 000 km for only 500 $ !!. I cant source rebuild parts that cheap even.

As my truck is a 94, there are a couple things I need to address, and would like some input from anyone who has done it, or has knowledge of the subject.


Here is what my research has found:

1.) The bolt patterns will be fine, the extra bolt hole in the HD will allow it to bolt to a 4.0 OHV motor:

2.)
The shift stubs are different, so I will just cut/weld to make my shifter fit:

3.) The HD has an OSS sensor hole...suggestions on plugging it? just use a sensor?

4.) I will change the rubber shift plugs for metal ones, Doorman #555-108

5.) I will use the clutch slave from my R1, as the slave cylinder on the HD trans has a different sized quick fitting.

6.) What should I used to plug the VSS sensor? just use a sensor again? cheaper alternative?

7.) The reverse light switch will connect straight to the trans as these are the same.

8.) This is the important one. The R1 has one extra connector that runs into the same trans harness on the car, and this is for the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch/Sensor). THIS IS NOT ON THE HD.....best way to bypass the NSS ???


Ill be sure to document everything when I do the swap, should be straight forward enough for anyone who can change a trans on their own anyway.

Cheers.

Nate

 

[rboyer]

As far as your shifter stub goes, you have two easy options. You can either find a long shifter stub that fits your earlier shifter OR you can swap to a later model shifter which puts your throw farther back which is what I would recommend. The sensor hole in the extension housing of the transmission can either be plugged, filled with a sensor, or you can swap it out with your original extension housing. If it were my truck I would clean, blast, and paint the original extension housing and swap it out in future preparation for the possibility of a manual t-case swap. The lack of a NSS on the new transmission is no big deal, just tie up your original connector and let it hang there. I'm pretty sure that the only noticeable purpose that the NSS serves is to bump down your rev limiter when the transmission is in the neutral position.

 

[ElleShooTiger]

Just swap the shifter stubs!

Just figured this out, but I think in 1998 Ford's engineers turned the cut in the stub 90 degrees and also redesigned the shifter handle, but they are interchangeable. However, the shifter handles are NOT interchangeable.

I pulled my shifter and boot from a 1997 Explorer, and my trans came from a 1998 Ranger. The stubs and shifters are different, but they both work and the shifter knob is in the same position with each one. Kinda pissed me off that Ford's engineers switched stuff around for nothing, at first I thought it was just a Ranger vs Explorer thing (same vehicles but a LOT of crap is built/wired differently) but it looks like it may have been a redesign in 1998.

Buy a new clutch slave while you're at it!

Your flywheel has a different bolt pattern than the 2007. The input shafts are also different sizes, so the pilot bearings are different, not sure if the hole in the flywheel for it is the same size throughout the years. Not sure if the input splines are different also, you might have to do a frankenstein with a 1994 pressure plate and 01+ clutch disc and pilot bearing.

The NSS is either for the starting system to tell it its not in gear, but more likely its for the 4x4 module since it needs neutral to shift to 4x4Low. Just wire the two wires together.

 

[-Nathan-]

Just swap the shifter stubs!

Just figured this out, but I think in 1998 Ford's engineers turned the cut in the stub 90 degrees and also redesigned the shifter handle, but they are interchangeable. However, the shifter handles are NOT interchangeable.

I pulled my shifter and boot from a 1997 Explorer, and my trans came from a 1998 Ranger. The stubs and shifters are different, but they both work and the shifter knob is in the same position with each one. Kinda pissed me off that Ford's engineers switched stuff around for nothing, at first I thought it was just a Ranger vs Explorer thing (same vehicles but a LOT of crap is built/wired differently) but it looks like it may have been a redesign in 1998.

Buy a new clutch slave while you're at it!

Your flywheel has a different bolt pattern than the 2007. The input shafts are also different sizes, so the pilot bearings are different, not sure if the hole in the flywheel for it is the same size throughout the years. Not sure if the input splines are different also, you might have to do a frankenstein with a 1994 pressure plate and 01+ clutch disc and pilot bearing.

The NSS is either for the starting system to tell it its not in gear, but more likely its for the 4x4 module since it needs neutral to shift to 4x4Low. Just wire the two wires together.

Hey thanks, but a couple things you said dont make sense.

First off, the clutch doesnt have to be touched, it stays bolted to the engine, along with the pressure plate and flywheel, not sure what youre talking about. Thats not an issue. Both inputs are 23 spline.

Secondly, that trans you pulled from a 98 ranger ISNT an HD, as the M5OD-R1 HD was used on SOHC engines, which the ranger didnt get until 2001. The explorer got it around 97, some may have got it, some not.

The shift stubs ARE NOT interchangeable, look at the picture I posted, they are different lengths and such. Other people ( I can show you the link if you want) have tried it, and couldnt get all gears to engage properly with the R1 shift stub.

The clutch slave in my trans is only a year old, so if it still looks good when i pull it, i will reuse it. You have to use a clutch slave from an R1, not an HD (they have different quick connect sizes) unless you want to mess with finding another clutch line...i do not.

I agree about the NSS, it is most likely only for 4 low, as there is a clutch safety anyways.

 

[Ranger44]

Plug the OSS hole with a brass plug or a sensor. I'd use thread sealant on it just to be sure it doesn't leak.

With the stub shifters, use what's original to the HD trans. It'll be easier in the long run and easier to find parts later. My guess is it would be easier to find a shifter from an HD trans and reuse your boot and or knob. That way it fit's the inner shifter with no modifications.

This might work......http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1999-2010-FORD-RANGER-SHIFTER-LEVER-W-O-TILT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563d9fcce7QQitemZ370401070311QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



As for the NSS, I'd have to see what the wiring diagram looks like before I make a recommendation. But I'd think a complete circuit would show a neutral position if you get my drift.........can't be for certain though.....

 

[ElleShooTiger]

Hey thanks, but a couple things you said dont make sense.

First off, the clutch doesnt have to be touched, it stays bolted to the engine, along with the pressure plate and flywheel, not sure what youre talking about. Thats not an issue. Both inputs are 23 spline.

It probably will have to be changed, according to the LUK clutch catalog the 1993-1997 4.0L clutch is 9 15/16" with a 1 1/16" spline size, whereas the 2001-2008 clutch is 10 1/8" with a 1" spline size. Both are 23-spline but that doesnt matter is the input shaft size is different.

Secondly, that trans you pulled from a 98 ranger ISNT an HD, as the M5OD-R1 HD was used on SOHC engines, which the ranger didnt get until 2001. The explorer got it around 97, some may have got it, some not.

The shift stubs ARE NOT interchangeable, look at the picture I posted, they are different lengths and such. Other people ( I can show you the link if you want) have tried it, and couldnt get all gears to engage properly with the R1 shift stub.

The 97 Exp had the OHV engine, so it had the R1 trans according to the door sticker.

I still dont understand why Ford made different shifter stubs and shifter handles for the Exp and Ranger on identical transmissions. Doubt that turning the bolt 90* makes a huge difference in shifter feel or performance

 

[HareRazor]

Can't you bolt your original shift cover onto the new transmission and solve both the neutral sensing switch and the shift stub issue?

 

[-Nathan-]

no they are different. Anyways, I got it all figured out I think. Ill update.

 

[adsm08]

NSS switch wires need to be spliced together if you want to use a key to start the truck.

If you leave it unplugged it will break the starter circuit. I left mine unplugged when I did my trans swap (thought my uncle had plugged it in after he finished extending the wires) and then spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why it only went "click" when I hit the key.

Cutting the plug off and splicing the ends together will complete the circuit and let the starter work.

This is part of AllanD's "Daisy-chained" starter circuit.

 

[4x4junkie]

The clutch pedal switch is what controls the starter circuit, not the NS. I've started my truck numerous times just by pushing in the clutch, but with it still in gear (such as after accidentally stalling it while offroad).

 

[adsm08]

The clutch pedal switch is what controls the starter circuit, not the NS. I've started my truck numerous times just by pushing in the clutch, but with it still in gear (such as after accidentally stalling it while offroad).

Its a 3 stage switch. It's never completely open when installed. It's either closed, or part way. It tells the computer if the trans is in gear or in neutral. I guess Ford thought the computer needed to know for a while.

Either way, this random, pointless switch, if left unplugged, makes the engine NOT START. I know because I'VE DONE IT!!

 

[AllanD]

It probably will have to be changed, according to the LUK clutch catalog the 1993-1997 4.0L clutch is 9 15/16" with a 1 1/16" spline size, whereas the 2001-2008 clutch is 10 1/8" with a 1" spline size. Both are 23-spline but that doesnt matter is the input shaft size is different.



The 97 Exp had the OHV engine, so it had the R1 trans according to the door sticker.

I still dont understand why Ford made different shifter stubs and shifter handles for the Exp and Ranger on identical transmissions. Doubt that turning the bolt 90* makes a huge difference in shifter feel or performance

He didn't say '98 he said 2007, and no he didn't edit his post.

as for the different stub lever?

The first change was going into 1994 when they switched to a longetr stub lever to shorten the shifter throws,

As for the later change where the bolt gores crosswise it was to accomadat a change in the casting at the base of the lever to place the entire lever back towards the driver by another 1-1/4" again this was to make it feel like you were NOT trying to throw the shift lever into the glove box when trying to shift into 5th.

If these are ford changing things for "no good reason" to you please keep future comments you yourself.

Lastly as for the lack of the NSS on the newer trans? IGNORE IT.

NSS switch wires need to be spliced together if you want to use a key to start the truck.

If you leave it unplugged it will break the starter circuit. I left mine unplugged when I did my trans swap (thought my uncle had plugged it in after he finished extending the wires) and then spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why it only went "click" when I hit the key.

Cutting the plug off and splicing the ends together will complete the circuit and let the starter work.

This is part of AllanD's "Daisy-chained" starter circuit.

You misread, the Manual trans Neutral Sense Switch has NOTHING to do
with the starter, it's about idle strategy when you are in neutral
With the clutch pedal released.

Frankly on a 2.9 with a good IAC or a 4.0 with it's heavier flywheel you'll never miss it.

I never bothered installing one on my 1993 4.0 when I swapped it into my Ranger....

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[-Nathan-]

It probably will have to be changed, according to the LUK clutch catalog the 1993-1997 4.0L clutch is 9 15/16" with a 1 1/16" spline size, whereas the 2001-2008 clutch is 10 1/8" with a 1" spline size. Both are 23-spline but that doesnt matter is the input shaft size is different.



The 97 Exp had the OHV engine, so it had the R1 trans according to the door sticker.

I still dont understand why Ford made different shifter stubs and shifter handles for the Exp and Ranger on identical transmissions. Doubt that turning the bolt 90* makes a huge difference in shifter feel or performance

I am TELLING you, not asking you, that the INPUT shafts are IDENTICAL. Same spline, same size, same length, everything. I can post pictures with a digital caliper read out if you do not believe me.

Not to mention, if you look at say Rockauto.com, or summit, they BOTH list a 1" 23 spline friction disc, for either a 94 OHV m5odr1 or a 2007 SOHC m5odr1hd tranny.

 

[ElleShooTiger]

I am TELLING you, not asking you, that the INPUT shafts are IDENTICAL. Same spline, same size, same length, everything. I can post pictures with a digital caliper read out if you do not believe me.

Not to mention, if you look at say Rockauto.com, or summit, they BOTH list a 1" 23 spline friction disc, for either a 94 OHV m5odr1 or a 2007 SOHC m5odr1hd tranny.

Dude, its cool, I was just telling you what it says in the LUK catalog. If you found out they're the same in real life, thats great! No need to be defensive, just trying to help you, and now I know better too. Its one of the things that made me shy away from the newer trans, plus the 98 was cheaper and closer to me lol.

He didn't say '98 he said 2007, and no he didn't edit his post.

as for the different stub lever?

The first change was going into 1994 when they switched to a longetr stub lever to shorten the shifter throws,

As for the later change where the bolt gores crosswise it was to accomadat a change in the casting at the base of the lever to place the entire lever back towards the driver by another 1-1/4" again this was to make it feel like you were NOT trying to throw the shift lever into the glove box when trying to shift into 5th.

If these are ford changing things for "no good reason" to you please keep future comments you yourself.

I know what he said, dont know what you're talking about 98, I know he's using a 2007 trans.

And THANKS for telling me why they changed the stubs and shifters, that explains a lot. I tried both stubs and shifters and the throws didnt seem that much different, but then I didnt really measure the distances either.

 

[-Nathan-]

yeah man, no hard feelings or anything. Just wanted to get my point across