It will not start....

[r55nls2002]

98 2.5L short cab short bed 2wd m/t.....

I am ready to pull my hair out... The ranger will not start. It has fuel & spark. I just finished pulling the t-belt cover and the engine is in time. It also has good compression. What do I check next other than scrap prices???

Any help will be greatly appreciated...

Randy-

 

[RonD]

First do 50/50 test
Pull off the air tube on the intake manifold
Open throttle and spray starting fluid or gas into the intake
Crank engine to start
If it fires up then dies, fuel delivery is the problem.
If it doesn't fire, then spark is the problem.

If it back fires then spark or valve timing could be an issue, check firing order(3 times) and check compression.

I know you "have spark and fuel" just humor me

And just as an FYI for the Lima 4cyl dual coil setup, only the exhaust side spark plugs/coil work when starting, intake side doesn't fire/work until RPMs are above 400, so 1 coil pack failing can cause a no start.

Also just as a "seen it before", unplug the TPS(throttle position sensor) wires, I have seen these fail and if they fail in a way that shows WOT then computer will cut off fuel during starting.

 

[tomw]

May be the cam or crank position sensors. Valve timing is set by the cam, but ignition uses the others to determine which plug to fire and when. If you have one system, both plugs will fire for pairs 1&4 and 2&3 at the same time, one on compression and the other on exhaust.
tom

 

[r55nls2002]

So it get worst.... I went out tonight to preform the 50/50 test as RonD suggested. and now the starter will not turn over. Yesterday I took the battery out and put it on the charger. It was reading 12.86 volts tonight when I put it back in the truck. When you key the truck the dash lights come and the radio comes on but the starter will not turn. So I checked fuses and swapped some relays around and still nothing. I climbed under the truck and tapped on the starter hoping that will do it, but nothing.. The switch on the clutch pedal, maybe? Is there anyway to check it or jump it out? If not I will pull the starter Friday and take to the parts store and have it tested.

 

[YungICY]

Make sure your battery connections are good. Especially the ground. If you have a bad connection it will provide enough current for dash lights and radio but not the starter. Also for the clutch switch, just unplug it. Try it like that, if it doesn't start try it with a jumper wire between the (I'm assuming) two leads. If it still doesn't work than that rules that out as the problem.

Sent from my LGMS345 using Tapatalk

 

[tomw]

Before replacing the starter, check the starter relay. Depending on year, some have a relay that can be jumpered under the hood, on the inner fender. Jumper from the small wire connector to the battery side of the relay, which will close the relay and pass BIG amps to the starter motor through the big cables. If it cranks - BE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL - then the clutch pedal switch is a good suspect. If not, then the starter is a good possibility.
When something stops working that used to, then check for connections that may have gotten loosened or disconnected when moving wires, cables and hoses around under the hood. Twist the cable connector on the battery post. If it is twistable, it's too loose. Check the other end of that cable where it is connected to the starter relay, if loose, same thing, won't send enough power for the starter motor.
tom

 

[r55nls2002]

So I jumped out relay number 5, and the starter worked again.

I hit the throttle body with some starter fluid and the engine came to life for a second. I am going to replace the fuel filter and go from there.

Finally a little progress.

 

[r55nls2002]

It turns out it had a bad throttle position sensor.

Thanks RonD, and every one else for posting!

 

[RonD]

Thanks for posting the fix, it will help others

Good work

 

[r55nls2002]

So.... It ran for about 24hrs.. Earlier today the started running like crap and finally petered out down the road from my house. I pulled spark plugs and they were wet and fouled. So I swapped both of the coils and then swapped both of the out for known working coils. I did not have any luck. So once again it is just holding down the driveway.
Could the ECM be causing me all this misery?

 

[tomw]

Plugs get 'wet and fouled' when there is too much fuel. Borrow, buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure at the 'fuel rail' where the injectors attach. The Schraeder valve will allow checking the pump and regulator.
A failed regulator will stuff too much gas in, causing wet and fouling, also black smoke and terrible gas mileage. If you pull the vacuum line on the regulator diaphragm, and it smells of fuel, you likely have a rupture and need a new regulator. They are not expensive.
If pressure is too low, it may be the pump or filter. Some have two pumps, low pressure lift pump in the tank, and high pressure injector pump on the frame rail. Either or both can be problematic, but most failures involve lack of fuel rather than plethora.
I'd check the regulator, and also make sure the air filter is not plugged.
tom