Left rear brake line leak

[rumblecloud]

Just need some advice here. This is an 02 Explorer Sport Trac 4x4, 4.0L. Front disc, rear drum.

The left rear flexible brake line goes from the top of the diff over to a bracket at the top of the frame rail. It connects to another solid brake line that is steel or metal of some sort and is black-coated with something. I have similar lines in the front brakes. Regardless, I have a leak in the black coated line right where it attaches to the fitting on the flexible brake line.

Is it possible to repair a section of the black-coated line or do I need to replace the entire line?



I guess I know anything is possible, but not knowing the material it's made of I'm not sure about how to flare in a connecting piece or even if it is possible to do that..

I've been looking at all the brake lines now that I have this truck in my sights. It needs some work if I want to keep it.
Thanks for any thoughts.

r\

 

[Josh B]

I am no pro sir but think you'll be safer just to replace it

 

[Uncle Gump]

In my experience... you're better off replacing the entire line.

Also in my experience... when one line rusts out... the rest are close behind.

If you want to keep it... I would just replace all the steel and rubber brake lines.

 

[Josh B]

I had a 87 or 88 Ranger given to me, my first Ranger. It had a factory replacement engine in it and was rusted all to hel. The young man simply said the brakes didn't work and he just wanted it gone.
I put it up on blocks all around and spent a couple of months under it with a wire brush and a chipping hammer trying to remove as much rust as possible, and I used a few cases of cheap wmart spray black paint.

The most interesting thing I found was a brake line, with a 2 or 3 foot rubber hose grafted in to it.
That was bound to fail, and I suppose it was why he had "just wanted it gone".
The man was no fool, he was a physics major at Vanderbilt-Nashville, but he was no mechanic. I expect he had installed that rubber hose and took off somewhere in it with his young wife and baby on board, and found it had no brakes with a rubber hose for a brake line :/

 

[rumblecloud]

Well...I expected as much. I was looking for a "rubber brake line fix."
Ain't gonna happen though.
I have to pull the bed again later this month when all the other fall chores are done, so I will look into a re-do of all the stopping stuff. Doesn't phase me in doing it, I was just looking forward to driving this winter. She is an oldie but goodie and I owe her.....the car, not my wife (but I owe her too.)

Thanks for your sanity.

 

[pjtoledo]

that line goes to a coupling connector about under the drivers seat.
the fuel tank restricts access, unless you have really skinny fingers.

 

[Shran]

Use an electricians fish tape or a coat hanger to run new line through the frame by the tank. Had to fix a couple trucks like that. Use Ni-cop brake line and yes I would replace the rubber line and probably the metal sections on the axle too if they look suspect. Couple hours and you’ll be back on the road.

 

[rumblecloud]

I woke up at 3 this morning with the solution of exactly what you are saying. All the lines on the axle look for sh*t. I sourced some nickel/copper lines on ebay - 3/16 and 1/4 with fittings - typical stuff I suppose.

I was hoping for a quicker fix because of timing. We're turning in our Taco lease in December and was planning for Ann to get back into the Sport Trac cuz that's her baby. I'll just have to put off the repairs for awhile as there's too much other stuff to get done before winter sets in. She'll just have to suffer and drive the Escape

Thanks.
r

 

[Josh B]

Don't risk driving it while it's like that, what's saying, an ounce of prevention being worth a pound of cure. Stay safe man

 

[rumblecloud]

Not to worry. The Escape is solid for Ann, it's front wheel drive only. I'll be driving the Ranger and the F150 is in reserve.

The Sport Trac will be up on blocks with the bed removed while I find time to make the repairs.

Thanks for your concern.
R

 

[Uncle Gump]

Tips that may help...

Waste zero time getting the old stuff off. A good pair of side cutters to the line at the line nut... snip. Use a six point socket and ratchet to remove the fitting. Easy peasy...

Same with the rubber hose... snip them. You're not going to use them anyway. Not positive on a sportrac... but where the rubber hoses connect to a bracket or chassis... there is a spring clip. Order new ones... they're cheap. Even if you can get the rusty ones off... they're probably damaged and not worth reusing. So again... waste no time... pry or tap off with a screw driver and a hammer.

When removing the line nuts... if you notice one is a unique size... snip the line as stated above... and use a bit more care to remove it. You can then grind the cut burrs from the line... clamp the fitting in a vice firmly... then drive the old line out of the fitting with a punch and hammer. Some of the fittings are bastard size and hard to source.

 

[rumblecloud]

Thanks Uncle. Those are good tips. The rubber hoses are fairly common. The nickel/copper tubing is as well, but the flaring and fittings are things I am not familiar with. But crap. half the stuff I've done so far are things I've never done before, so I'll learn. I have a flaring tool kit so I'll practice.
I'll accumulate the parts and when the time comes I'll be ready.
Thank you for the advice and for any further notes you want to pass along.

 

[mikkelstuff]

So why not replace those worthless rear drum brakes with Mustang disks while you are at it. Instructions are on this website.

Also, I wrote up a detailed journal with pictures when I replaced the rear drum brakes on my 2002 4WD Ranger. Send me a PM with email address if you want a copy.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I woke up at 3 this morning with the solution of exactly what you are saying. All the lines on the axle look for sh*t. I sourced some nickel/copper lines on ebay - 3/16 and 1/4 with fittings - typical stuff I suppose.

I was hoping for a quicker fix because of timing. We're turning in our Taco lease in December and was planning for Ann to get back into the Sport Trac cuz that's her baby. I'll just have to put off the repairs for awhile as there's too much other stuff to get done before winter sets in. She'll just have to suffer and drive the Escape

Thanks.
r

I forgot to add...

NiCopp is no different then the rest of the auto parts these days. Often imitated... rarely duplicated.

I ordered a 25 foot roll on Amazon... it just didn't look right to me. I dug in and it's pretty much a copper... despite the listing that is misleading.

I ended up sourcing true NiCopp from the local parts store. I simply didn't trust the Amazon purchase. You can visually see the difference below. True NiCopp has a much higher nickel content... but it is roughly 2x the price.

 

[rumblecloud]

Hmmmnnn. I just looked at Autozone.

AGS NiCopp 3/16in x 25ft Nickel-Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil

$66.00.

Even with the increase in price, I would still go with the brand name stuff from AZ. The stuff from eBay comes with the fittings though.

F-it, I'll get both. You can never have enough brake line.