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Lower RPM to pass smog 1987 ford ranger


rangerraul

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I got a 1987 Ford Ranger that only won't pass smog because of the RPM which runs too high. Last I checked was close to 1100, and I'm pretty sure it needs to be down to around 800. I'm 19 and have pretty limited experience with working on cars. I brought it to a mechanic to possibly have the clutch replaced since it seems to be on its last legs and to fix the timing issue. The mechanic told me that he doesn't want to get involved because more issues will spring up as he works on it and he is busy. I called the previous owners who I bought it from and she told me her husband messed with the distributor and the timing to get more out of the engine and that in order to get it to pass smog id need to retard the timing? Is that something I can do myself? I'm not completely incapable and have worked on cars more than a lot of people my age, but just enough to know they aren't impossible to work on.

So just to state it clearly, is this something I can do myself? Can i do it in 4-8 hours? Am I better off taking it to a mechanic? I should have enough to pay a mechanic to do it, but would like to avoid that if possible since money and time are little tight.
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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What engine and transmission?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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That won't have a carb. It will have throttle body and injectors. Check for vacuum leaks. Also check the IAC, it is a computer controled vacuum leak. Unplug it. Rpm's should drop to ~500 or engine die. This is good as it shows that there isn't any vacuum leaks.
 

rangerraul

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That won't have a carb. It will have throttle body and injectors. Check for vacuum leaks. Also check the IAC, it is a computer controled vacuum leak. Unplug it. Rpm's should drop to ~500 or engine die. This is good as it shows that there isn't any vacuum leaks.
So since it doesn't have a carburetor I can retard the engine? What is retarding the engine? Also I will go out and unplug the IAC and if it drops that means there isnt any leaks?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Its been a long time since I've worked on a 2.9. Iirc there is a distributor. It should be timed at 10° btdc. But look for vacuum leaks before fiddling with timing.
 

rangerraul

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Its been a long time since I've worked on a 2.9. Iirc there is a distributor. It should be timed at 10° btdc. But look for vacuum leaks before fiddling with timing.
Okay got it checking right now
 

rangerraul

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Its been a long time since I've worked on a 2.9. Iirc there is a distributor. It should be timed at 10° btdc. But look for vacuum leaks before fiddling with timing.
Okay so I checked it seems like no leaks. Here are photos of my engine just in case they could help. So if I was going to retard the timing how'd I do that?
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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You unplugged the IAC? What did the rpm do?

There is a SPOUT connector. Kind of looks like a fuse. Pull it and use a timing light. Check the timing. Report back...
 

rangerraul

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You unplugged the IAC? What did the rpm do?

There is a SPOUT connector. Kind of looks like a fuse. Pull it and use a timing light. Check the timing. Report back...
Ill try to get a timing light tonight but if i can't Ill report back hopefully tomorrow. Thank you for helping I appreciate it
 

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I recommend laying on your back under the front of the truck, and cleaning off the front pulley where the timing marks are. Once you find zero, take some white-out or something similar and paint a long white line on the zero mark all the way across. Then find the 10 btdc mark and paint a short white daub on it. Makes it much easier to see with the timing light. If he did advance the timing, that will affect the idle speed.
 

rangerraul

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I recommend laying on your back under the front of the truck, and cleaning off the front pulley where the timing marks are. Once you find zero, take some white-out or something similar and paint a long white line on the zero mark all the way across. Then find the 10 btdc mark and paint a short white daub on it. Makes it much easier to see with the timing light. If he did advance the timing, that will affect the idle speed.
Okay sweet thank you, i'll do that tomorrow
 

rusty ol ranger

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The SPOUT connector is on the passenger side of the upper plenium (part that says "2.9L electronic fuel injection".

1- Clean off timing marks on harmonic balancer (big pulley looking thing behind the actual pully on the bottom of the engine)

2- Find "10*" and mark it with something very visiable (i use a white paint marker)

3- Loosen distributor (hold down bolt is kind of rough to access, loosen enough to turn dist but not so loose it rattles around

4- Start engine, let it warm up.

5- Remove SPOUT

6- Connect timing light to #1 plug wire as well as the battery.

7- shine timing light at the timing mark you made earlier...the light should blink when the mark you made aligns with the timing pointer on the engine, If it doesnt slowly adjust it untill it does.

8- Shut down engine

9- Torque down distributor

10- Unhook timing light

11- Replace SPOUT

12- Test drive
 

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