Manual brakes

[Northidahotrailblazer]

So I ordered a hydro boost setup from Sweeting Performance. The guy told me up front it would be 10-12 weeks. Which was long, but I get it. 6 weeks later and on one of my other FB groups a guy was complaining of waiting 6 plus months and not getting any yet and they wont respond or anything. Well that got me thinking, I did email and try to call them a couple weeks ago to see if I could get fittings added to my order and I never did hear back from them. So i dont know if thats a bad sign or what. But they have reviews online from the past year that are not good. Idk I want to run hydro boost on my ranger, so If I wait for it thats not a big deal to me as long as I get it. But on my diesel B2. Being that I got my crawl box and I'm not that far off with it I really need something on it since I'm not running vacuum at all and I was going to do hydro boost on it. But I really don't want to only waiting on it for well another 6 weeks. That got me thinking about manual brakes. There is a company that makes an adaptor kit and it sounds like it wouldn't take that long to get.

I just keep coming back to my grandfathers 60s international dump truck that was flat scary to drive with its manual brakes. but i get it, apples to oranges really. Would manual brakes be ok, with 35-37s? There are a few people on here that in pass threads have said there not bad. Just has me thinking It might not be bad to try and see how it is. I really like the idea of deleting an other system. Deleting they hydro boost part would give me a lot more room, and get rid of the need for more lines and the issue if my power steering pump is enough.

Any one heard of MALIBU DAVE'S manualbrakes.com? I sent them an email to see about there lead times but It looks like they have good reviews.

 

[franklin2]

I did my own conversion on a 1980 f150 years ago. I fabbed my own adapter plate, cut the rod off the old booster and rounded the end off to go into the master cylinder, and bolted it all together. Like any manual brake car or truck, it takes a little getting used to.

I went to manualbrakes.com, that looks like what he is doing, except he gives you the pushrod already cut, a nice adapter plate, and misc bolts. One thing he does do on his more complete kit is give you a smaller bore master cylinder. I would go ahead and get this, or find out from him what vehicle it goes to and buy one in the store. The smaller bore master is going to increase your pedal travel which will take some getting used to also, but it is going to give you more pressure to the brakes.

 

[franklin2]

Have you considered a electric vacuum pump? You could mount it remotely somewhere else on the truck. I would use a small tank with it also to give some vacuum storage. The tank could be mounted in the back or somewhere else also.

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[pjtoledo]

after driving manual for a while, get ready to kiss the steering wheel the first time back in a regular vehicle.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I know someone here did a manual brake conversion on their tricked out pre runner. Can't remember who right now... I'll see if I can find the info and post a link.

I want to say they did a Wilwood system. Maybe bend someone's ear over there and get their thoughts.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I found the thread I was thinking about. Not a lot there. I believe @JOLENE_THE_RANGER did go manual brakes in the end... perhaps he has something to add.

Search results for query: Manual brake

www.therangerstation.com

 

[mikkelstuff]

I converted my '75 Ranchero to hydroboost this past summer using the hydroboost from a 1979 Mercury Grand Marque. Such might not fit a Ranger but others have successfully used the hydroboost from a Ford Aerostar van.

The only true problematic part of the installation is to insure that the hydroboost actuation rod connects at the correct location on the brake pedal to insure the rod does not bind when the brake pedal is depressed.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

I've been messaging Dave from manualbrakes.com all day, He recommends a 1 1/8 master cylinder since I'm going a big/heavy tire. I think I'm going to just pull the trigger and try it. I'm going to get the smaller master also, because I haven't decided 100% if I'm going to down the B2 for SAS yet. Well see, heck if it works goods, I might just do it on my ranger also. Or I just see if I end of getting anything from Sweeting performance. Ill just use the hydro boost on my ranger.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

My 79 F150 had manual brakes. I towed a 2 horse trailer with 2 horses and no trailer brakes.

Even downhill it was fine you just gotta use your brain

 

[franklin2]

Manual brakes actually work better with drum brakes. That is why the rear shoe is always the longer shoe when assembling drum brakes, and also why the whole bottom of the drum brake assembly just floats around not mounted to the backing plate. As you are moving forward and hit the brakes, the shoes expand and the circular motion of the drums jambs the rear shoe between the upper backing plate pin and the drum itself. This wedges the rear shoe even harder in the drum, creating what the factory calls a "servo effect" requiring less pedal effort on the drum brakes.

Disc brakes do not work this way, so they require more pedal pressure for the same amount of braking. They do get rid of heat better than a drum brake though, so less brake fade.

 

[superj]

my first couple vehicles had manual brakes and other than in the rain, i had no problem with them. one had manual disck brakes on the front and drums out back and hte other had drums all the way around with a nice v8 and three speed transmission. and i drove that sucker as fast as i could everywhere.

65 mustang had drums all the way around. i had to pump the brakes in the rain or else i wasn't stopping anytime soon.
70 karmann ghia had manual disck front and drums in back. stopped like it had power assist brakes

and my other beetles had drums all the way around too but i didn't drive them as much as i did the two mentioned so i don't remember them that well

i am now using the corrected spelling of disck

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Well I ordered it, I did the small bore master cylinder for now. The guy was super friendly and answered the phone when I called so that was a plus. He said it get shipped out today. Well see, As of right now I have a drum 8.8 and a D35 in the front. I just don't know if i'm going to have funds to do my SAS this year. The links and everything for the front suspension is going to be Idk probably over 3K before its all said and done. I want to drive this thing. So I think Ill trim what I need to fit the 35s and maybe just regear and throw some lunch box lockers in it for now. Maybe plan on next winter. I still have some work ahead of me. I already have the think lifted a few inches and the 3 inch body lift. so I think If i trim the finders I can get the 35s to fit. Will see haha Ill probably update my B2 diesel build page on how the brakes work out. So anyone looking for more into Look there. This kit is suppose to be 100% bolt on and go.

 

[franklin2]

This kit is suppose to be 100% bolt on and go.

Of course you will have to bleed the new master cylinder I would bench bleed it with it mounted in a vise, leave the bleeding plugs in it, take the old one off, mount the new one and then put the lines on it loosely. Get someone to press the pedal slowly till the lines start leaking and hold the pedal while you tighten them up. This works without bleeding the whole system.

I would be surprised if you didn't have to use a brass adapter on one or both of the original lines. Maybe he includes these in the kit. The parts stores sell them also.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Of course you will have to bleed the new master cylinder I would bench bleed it with it mounted in a vise, leave the bleeding plugs in it, take the old one off, mount the new one and then put the lines on it loosely. Get someone to press the pedal slowly till the lines start leaking and hold the pedal while you tighten them up. This works without bleeding the whole system.

I would be surprised if you didn't have to use a brass adapter on one or both of the original lines. Maybe he includes these in the kit. The parts stores sell them also.

Thats just not what I meant when I said bolt on and go. But you are correct all that needs done.

Well anyways. I got the kit and even though I talked to the guy over several days he didn't tell me that Id have to redrill my petal for a higher pivot. Which now looking at it I should of know better. I would of been more interested in doing this if I hadn't already swapped my petals in and did all that and got my dash all back together.... So currently I don't know if I'm going to do this or not. I'm currently just holding out that Sweeting performance will get me my hydro boost. But Well see If I have to pull my petal assembly out for a 3rd time I'm not going to be happy. since I've added alot for different things now for the diesel.... SO well see. I just thought Id do an update. Because if I didn't have to pull the petals out, I would of done this swap already. So ill keep you all posted if I do end up doing the manual brakes. The master cylinder doesn't have the right line adapters like Franklin2 said. so this is far from a bolt on swap. haha doesn't look hard to do. Like I said, I have alot more to do on my project before i'm down to the brakes.

 

[bobbywalter]

damn..never seen this.....i would have just did the g30 or astrovan thing. though the vacuum pumps are cheap too.