Master cylinder ?

[sbsrlewis]

I'm hoping I can get some guidance on my brake. Here's a brief histor that since the issue started.

Last fall I bought and installed Dana 35 beams with Dana 44 Outers on my 89 BII. During the install I replaced the rotors, calipers and pads with new ones. After the install the brake pedal traveled further and didn't seem as strong. Not long after I swapped the drums on by 8.8 to disk. After this the braking got even worse so I changed the BII master cylinder out for one from an Explorer with 4 wheel disk and removed the RABS moduel and there has been no improvement.

I am using the original BII hard lines and bought the extended stainless braided lines from Duff. I also purchased a Motive Products power bleeder. I have bleed the brake numerous times but braking remains the same.

Do you think that a master cylinder from a 1/2 would fix this issue and get my brakes back? I would like to get this solved so I can start driving this again plus I have an off-road trip coming up that I won't be able to do without brakes.

Ideas?


Steve

 

[infantry grunt]

proportioner valve maybe,this happened on my wifes truck once,i was stummped,replaced everything i knew to.its like a junction where your brake lines go into and out of,should be mounted inside your frame rail.hpe this is useful

 

[kryptonitecb]

If you get a master cylinder from an explorer with 4 wheel disk and the proportionating built in it may solve your issue. I did that swap when I moved from drum to 4 wheel disk on my ranger. Also try adjusting the rod that goes from the booster to the master cylinder. After I replaced my master and extended that rod (which is a pita, you have to adjust, install, test, remove, adjust, etc) everything worked great. This was on a ranger with 8.8 rear and d35 ttb front so it may require some trial and error for you to make it work.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

All I have is some thoughts, I don't have real world experience.

You replaced the rubber lines with ss braided so there shouldn't be any swelling of the lines going on.
You aren't losing fluid.
You have correctly bled the system.[?]
You have replaced the front calipers with new that have a larger piston displacement [larger volume]
You have replaced the rear drums with calipers that have a larger piston displacement [larger volume]
You are using a master with a small displacement piston [small volume].
Replace small volume master with larger

I think your idea of using a 1/2 ton master is valid. I do remember seeing a thread about this same problem and IIRC that was the solution. I would look for a master from a truck with brakes closest to what you have now. You may have to incorporate an adjustable proportioning valve.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Front calipers on are the correct sides and the bleeders are at the top of the caliper correct?

 

[Loud Ranger]

Front calipers on are the correct sides and the bleeders are at the top of the caliper correct?

^Id double check this, When i installed my 8.8 discs i accidently swapped sides with the calipers since they were labeled wrong. Couldnt get much pressure at all since all the air was trapped in the top of the caliper and the bleeders were pointing down.

 

[sbsrlewis]

I will double check to make sure I have the calipers on the correct side but I think I will try and extend the rod before I replace the master cyl. Thanks for the ideas.

Steve

 

[kryptonitecb]

That rod is something that isn't discussed in the library and was all I had to do to make mine work right. The post I ran across had mentioned that the stock ranger rod length is less than that of the explorers by a couple hairs. I was at my wits end like you so I gave it a try and it worked perfectly. Hopefully it solves your issue also.

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[sbsrlewis]

I checked my nipples are up...or should I say the brake bleeders are in the up position.

As for adjusting the rod, which is my next step, does 1 full turn make a BIG difference? Curious as to how much I should turn it out?


Steve

 

[scooter]

I went bout three turns at a time, only put two nut on it while testing also.

I pretty well did the same thing you did untill i noticed the adjuster on
the MC.


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[kryptonitecb]

X2 to scooter, take off MC, adjust, install 2 nuts, test, repeat till good. Make sure not to extend to far or you will constantly engage the MC.

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[scooter]

Make sure not to extend to far or you will constantly engage the MC.

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Um yeaaaaaa, i did that too.... Drove it around a bit (around the block), brakes were touchy.
Came back home and was like uhhh ohhhhh i smell HOT brakes!!!


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[kryptonitecb]

Lol, this is why we need an addition to the tech library talking about this

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[sbsrlewis]

Ok I'm at my wits end with these damn brakes. I have turned the rod out 11 full turns with maybe a little change. I'm afraid I'm going to turn out to far.

Anyone know if master cylinder and booster from disk brake explorer would be bolt on? Got to thinking that if so they would be adjusted already n I should be able to bolt and bleed brakes. Thoughts???


Steve

 

[kryptonitecb]

They may bolt up but I don't think the booster would be any different. Booster doesn't throw that rod any farther, it just multiplies the force you put on the pedal.

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