Mazda B2300 sludge - need some help!

[b23]

Mazda B2300 low oil pressure bad economy

I recently bought a 96 Mazda b2300, body is straight, some surface rust on the bumpers but overall great shape. Will be using it for a work truck in here in Phoenix

(edited this post with my NEW problem)

NEW PROBLEM!

My main concern now is the oil pressure gauge is only reading about 1/3. It doesnt seem to matter if its cold or hot, load or no load, highway or city - its about 1/3. I have no "Check Gauges" light (I do have a CEL though, for the MAF).

I have nothing to indicate I actually have low oil pressure. There is no pinging, ticking, or other valve noise. Everything seems lubricated and the engine runs like a top. My next step is to test oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to verify my thought, that the sensor is bad.

I have an oil leak somewhere. It appears to be from the valve cover, I hope not from the head. With cast iron heads a blown HG wouldnt be the end of the world, but its a hassle I would like to avoid if possible.


Another concern I have right now is the fuel economy seems a little under par. Highway driving I got about 110 miles with about 1/3-1/4 of a tank. Is that about right? $44 into the tank to full, looks like I will get about 350 or so out of the tank? How many gallons are even in this tank? Base model (no extended cab or extended bed) 4 cylinder B2300


ANOTHER PROBLEM

I am having some stuttering when coming to a stop, the car wants to stall even with clutch in. One time pushing the clutch in made it stall.
I am also having some "bogging down" - loss of power, when I floor it in a low gear. It will soon pick up and haul ass like no 4 cylinder should, but bogs down when you floor it just for a second or two.
I am also getting some backfiring.

I think the above problems are a combined issue of bad fuel injectors and bad MAF. The bad MAF is not reading properly, negatively affecting my mpg. Coupled with that, the fuel injectors could be clogged on a few cylinders. This could cause them to not be closing all the way, causing them to squirt without throttle.
This could be causing it to flood a little bit, causing the engine to "want to stall" when I come to a stop, even in N
It could be doing the same when I floor it, dumping too much fuel and flooding thus losing power for a second before picking up
It could also be dumping fuel in when it shouldnt, which then drops to the exhaust, hits the hot exhaust and burns there, causing the backfiring


Sorry for the long post - I have a lot to say! Any help, tips or advice is appreciated! Even if all you have to say is I am going down the right path diagnostically, it will help a lot!

Got the truck for a decent price assuming these problems are easy to sort out. I can do the work myself so will just be paying parts. Any help appreciated, thank you!

 

[PetesPonies]

If you are going to use diesel fuel, then fill it up. Let it sit a few days and then drain it out.

 

[Mazda]

Did the PO install the "oil temp gauge". Never seen one on any ranger. The water temp gauge will read on the cold side almost all the time. I have only got mine to half way a few days last summer when it was about 110 outside and I drove to Yuma will the are on all the way on the 8.

As for the oil change I have never had to use something to flush the engine out as mine has been changed every 3000 miles. Last oil change was 5 quarts in and about 4.8 out so I don't have any advice for that. Sorry

Bryan

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Have you pulled the valve covers and checked for physical blockage?

Richard

 

[b23]

Hey guys thanks for the quick responses and great advice. I mis-spoke about oil temp gauge, its the oil pressure gauge that is reading a little low.

I went out this morning and didnt see the valve cover filled as it looked before. I drove it a bit to the auto store and checked it there, it didnt seem filled. Had 3 pairs of eyes looking at it last night saying it was filled with oil, but now I am thinking it just looked like that and what we were seeing is that metal plate which had the oil coating on it (it was really late and dark, we were using cell phones as lights).

There does not seem to be an excess of oil in the valve cover right now, nor was there an excess after driving it a little bit.

My plan was to siphon the excess and put in some cleaner. Because there was no excess oil today (and maybe yesterday either) I decided to pour in some seafoam. About half a can then I drove a little bit, maybe 5-10 miles, and will be driving it again later up to about 100 miles before changing the oil and filter. Then will probably do about 1/3 seafoam into it just in case it was blocked, and using synthetic oil from here on out. 1000 miles on that next oil change, then depending how she drives and looks, regular oil changes from there on out.

The CEL is for the MAF, so I will be trading mine with a known working one to test it before buying a new one.

I also fixed a few other little bits, some bad vacuum hoses and etc, which seemed to help a minor "wavering" at idle. Im curious if the MAF is actually bad or if the bad vacuum lines triggered the code. Im not exactly sure how these trucks are set up, I used to be a BMW mechanic so this is new to me. I know bad vacuum lines can throw a MAF code on a BMW, but not sure if it will do the same on these trucks.

The next problem I want to get sorted out is it bogs down a little bit for just a second if you go heavy on the throttle. I didnt test it since fixing the vacuum lines, but in my experience this may be fuel injectors. Odo on car broke at 203K miles, so I assume its about overdue for some fresh injectors. Anything else I should look at? Since the oil issue *seems* to be fairly sorted out, I will be ordering parts for a major tuneup soon and want to know if there is anything I am overlooking:
Distributor cap and rotor, wires, spark plugs, injectors, air filter
Anything else I need?

And no I have not pulled the valve covers yet, I went to buy a repair manual for the truck today but local store didnt have any in stock. Will be looking for an online guide on how to do so, and will pull it when I do the tuneup and check to see condition of oil inside valve cover. If I see any blockage, I will do the straight metal clotheshanger through it to try to clean it up.

 

[beluga420]

Oil pressure gauge souldn't be moving at all since it's the dummmy fake oil pressure gage. If it's low it means that your ''check gauge'' light is on and you have under 8 psi of oil pressure. This needle shouldn't be moving otherwise..

I don't see how you can see that the valve cover is full of oil if you didn't remove it first. What I think you see is just that metal plate which prevent oils splattering on filling hole...

I can't see what could ever block returning oil passages of the head/block.. there are 4 hooles if I remember and they are near 1/2 inch each.. I highly doubt these could be bloked.

There is not distributor on your truck. Changing wires and sparkplug could be a good idea with air filter... But unless your truck jerks like hell there are no reason to change the injectors..

If you truck runs fine just run it like that and add oil if it's missing some.. I guess there nothing bad to worry if the oil pressure sensor is still at the normal position..

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I can't see what could ever block returning oil passages of the head/block.. there are 4 hooles if I remember and they are near 1/2 inch each.. I highly doubt these could be bloked.

I'm not familiar with these engines, I've never had one apart. On some older ford engines, they use an umbrella type oil seal on the valves which can break apart with age and block the oil drain back hole. I've found this on two 429/460 engines I've torn apart. Most of my experience is from when I was a teen 30-35 years ago. Never the less, it's good to know this isn't the case here.

Richard

I had to edit 25-30 when I realized how old I've gotten....damn.

 

[Mark_88]

About three months ago someone (Adsm08 I think) suggested using Rotella T Diesel oil in engines...so I did...

Well, I've never seen so much smoke coming out of my engine...and it did it every time I ran the engine but would taper off after a bit...and it was coming out of every possible hole...

What it seems to have done is cleaned out all the passage ways that were probably a bit plugged up with gunk and now the engine doesn't smoke (or very little)...maybe my valves had gunk on them causing them to not sit properly...but I think that oil with whatever it is they put in it for diesel engines helped it quite a bit...

Still have to change the head because I'm certain that I still have a valve issue with #2 cylinder...or maybe a crack in the head...but if you want to run that stuff through your engine for a few thousand miles it will probably clean out anything and everything...make sure you change the oil filter after that though...

Just a suggestion, as it seems your not having the problem you thought you were having initially...

 

[beluga420]

Never the less, it's good to know this isn't the case here.

Even if it was the case I would think you would need more than 5 quarts of oil to fill the entire valve cover lol.

Just checked on my truck to make sure how many return holes there were. I never really focused on the number and size and it picked my curiosity. Lucky I just had my engine appart and back in truck this week and valve cover isn't on.

3 return holes total.. 2 of about 3/8'' on the driver's side and one big around 3/4'' on the back pass side. Second one is hard to see on first pic tho.
I guess it would be impossible to block those 3 holes, unless someone did work and forgot a shop towel in there..

 

[b23]

Wow guys thanks a bunch for all the help so far! I used to be a BMW mechanic and those forum members usually just say "take it to a shop" or "the dealer will help you figure that out" - its really great seeing a community of car/truck enthusiast who actually help out the DIYer!

Have edited original post and thread name to reflect my new problem and not the problem I only thought I had. Still have some issues I would like sorted out
Beluga you are right, there is definitely NOT sludge in the engine! Today in the daylight I checked it and indeed, the valve cover was NOT full of oil! There are a few dirty spots in the oil, so it is time for an oil change. Running some seafoam through right now to help clean things up. Will be doing oil changes every 300 miles for probably 2000 miles or so.


NEW PROBLEM!

My main concern now is the oil pressure gauge is only reading about 1/3. It doesnt seem to matter if its cold or hot, load or no load, highway or city - its about 1/3. I have no "Check Gauges" light (I do have a CEL though, for the MAF).

I have nothing to indicate I actually have low oil pressure. There is no pinging, ticking, or other valve noise. Everything seems lubricated and the engine runs like a top. My next step is to test oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to verify my thought, that the sensor is bad.

I have an oil leak somewhere. It appears to be from the valve cover, I hope not from the head. With cast iron heads a blown HG wouldnt be the end of the world, but its a hassle I would like to avoid if possible.


Another concern I have right now is the fuel economy seems a little under par. Highway driving I got about 110 miles with about 1/3-1/4 of a tank. Is that about right? $44 into the tank to full, looks like I will get about 350 or so out of the tank? How many gallons are even in this tank? Base model (no extended cab or extended bed) 4 cylinder B2300


ANOTHER PROBLEM

I am having some stuttering when coming to a stop, the car wants to stall even with clutch in. One time pushing the clutch in made it stall.
I am also having some "bogging down" - loss of power, when I floor it in a low gear. It will soon pick up and haul ass like no 4 cylinder should, but bogs down when you floor it just for a second or two.
I am also getting some backfiring.

I think the above problems are a combined issue of bad fuel injectors and bad MAF. The bad MAF is not reading properly, negatively affecting my mpg. Coupled with that, the fuel injectors could be clogged on a few cylinders. This could cause them to not be closing all the way, causing them to squirt without throttle.
This could be causing it to flood a little bit, causing the engine to "want to stall" when I come to a stop, even in N
It could be doing the same when I floor it, dumping too much fuel and flooding thus losing power for a second before picking up
It could also be dumping fuel in when it shouldnt, which then drops to the exhaust, hits the hot exhaust and burns there, causing the backfiring


Sorry for the long post - I have a lot to say! Any help, tips or advice is appreciated! Even if all you have to say is I am going down the right path diagnostically, it will help a lot!
Thanks!

 

[logman7777]

Dont want to hijack the thread but Rotella shouldnt make the 2.3 smoke. Been running it in mine for about 12k and it likes the thicker oil (no loss between oil changes on a 230k engine). If we ever get a winter here in Jersey ill go back to 10-30 but its golden for now.

 

[Tedybear]

Dont want to hijack the thread but Rotella shouldnt make the 2.3 smoke. Been running it in mine for about 12k and it likes the thicker oil (no loss between oil changes on a 230k engine). If we ever get a winter here in Jersey ill go back to 10-30 but its golden for now.

Same here. We run 5w40 Diesel Rotella full synth. in the colder months, and we change over to 10w40 in the summer time. (planning on 5w50 once I get a paycheck. Advance has a bogo offer on Castrol Edge 5w50)

I've tried 10w30 in the winter time--and it sounds like nickels in a tin cup when I start it. As for smoking or any other issues? Not really?

S-

 

[b23]

Im having some valve tick, and it is noticeable more pronounced in the cold. I am using 5w30 not sure what previous owner used but it did not seem to tick before.

Would you guys recommend the diesel synth for me? I will be doing 10w30 or 10w40 next oil change, what are the advantages to the diesel oil over normal oil?

Am burning a little oil right now, havent had the truck long enough to know how much shes burning but at red lights I can occasionally smell it and she drips a little oil as well.

 

[Tedybear]

Im having some valve tick, and it is noticeable more pronounced in the cold. I am using 5w30 not sure what previous owner used but it did not seem to tick before.

Would you guys recommend the diesel synth for me? I will be doing 10w30 or 10w40 next oil change, what are the advantages to the diesel oil over normal oil?

Am burning a little oil right now, havent had the truck long enough to know how much shes burning but at red lights I can occasionally smell it and she drips a little oil as well.

Both oils have the same 'API' rating. (See the round label thing on the bottle. Diesel oil has a different prefix then normal oil--but if you look at the label? The oil rating is also listed, and it's usually current with new specs)

As a general rule, it would seem that it's better not to run Diesel oil in a gas engine. I just peeked at some of the websites and it seems the additives used are heavier metal content and detergents that can harm a gas engine.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1715038

Now on that site? The first post is someone saying they contacted Shell and they stated it wouldn't be an issue?

Several searches show that many people use Rotella Diesel oil just as I do without side effects.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS_v1.pdf

From the horses mouth. "Meets the requirements of API-SM". So I'd say it'd work without issues.

S-

 

[Tedybear]

It might sound as if I'm back tracking. This is a bit of a hot-topic in other areas. The end result should be Shell's own support site--as they make the stuff and know it's ratings.

S-