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New guy, new project: 1988 BII wheeler


97BlackBetty

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You are running full widths correct? And what is your backspacing? I would think that with a full width under there you are wide enough to safely go up another 1-1.5 inches. Personally I like to keep it low but so long as you keep it with in reason it should be fine. Is the problem with clearance at the truss, or is it out at the tires? Can you remove any more body to provide the travel you want?
 


leumas12

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i wanna keep it low too, the wheels are 3 or 4" backspacing i believe and the axle are full width. The clearance issue comes from the truss to frame in the front axle. Although now that i think about it i plan on stretching the front about 12" forward and mounting suspension stuff to the one links anyway so i actually could hack off the frame above the axle and relocate the body mount back a little, that would give me an extra 4" between truss and radiator...hmmm :icon_confused:
 

leumas12

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Back again haha. All the beadlocks are done and it seems like they all hold air but im keeping an eye on em to make sure there are no slow leaks. The 14 bolt has brakes and has been painted so i figure i would throw the pic on here:



Thats it :D Thanks guys

Sam
 

BeaterMan

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i just spend a good chunk of time reading you build up. WOW! i'm speechless, that is going to be one serious rig! i really admire your talent.
 

leumas12

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thanks alot man i really appreciate the good words :icon_cheers: im hoping to eventually go into business doing this kind of stuff so confidence builders help :cool: (im only 21 and still have alot to learn!)

So i measured today, with another 1.5" i will have 4" uptravel from the truss to the frame. Not great but i will have to live with it unless i want to cut the frame, dont want to go any taller.
 

leumas12

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Well ive been debating lately and have decided after a lot of thought to ditch the one link idea front and rear and switch over to an all leaf spring suspension. There are a few reasons for this:

1. COST. I dont have a ton of money to spend on this thing plus im working at an internship that ends in March so unless i can get it extended i will most likely have no income for a while. $50-100 for a pair of leaf springs sounds very nice, especially compared to air shocks at >$220 a piece.

2. TIME. Im working and going to school so i dont have a ton of time to work on this thing. Leaf springs would be a MUCH quicker build than one links.

3. MAKING FLEX. I really am interested to see how much flex i can make from leaf springs. Coils would give me good flex, as would air shocks, but i really want to show what a well designed leaf spring setup can do.

4. WHEELING STYLE. The one links would articulate extremely well which is perfect for rock crawling more than anything else. The one links/air shocks are not, however, all that stable unless you run some sort of suck down winch or something. The primary situation im thinking in going down hill then hitting the brakes. Air shocks could unload quickly, sending me ass over tea kettle onto my lid...OUCH. Leaf springs, however, are very stable and solid which would be better for hill climbs, mud, and just general 'wheelin which is what i do more than anything.

5. THE ITCH. This one is simple. I really want to wheel this thing. And since leafs would make that happen earlier than one-links, thats what i want to do :icon_thumby:

So thats the deal, im still researching which leafs to use, there are alot of options! :icon_confused:
 

pud

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you could always cut the engine x member out...since youre not using it for anything. Just leave the chunks for the engine mounts and beef em up, since youre gonna run leafs you could fab a new front cross member to take the old ones place and mount the leafs to.

Cant wait to see it done!
 

spaz1879

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This is some great work! SUBSCRIBED! I like the colors that you choose for the axle/calipers/beadlocks :D My only question is what is the truss for i have seen them before but don't understand what their purpose is. does it have to do with the one link? or does it just prevent some type of axle movement?
 

leumas12

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This is some great work! SUBSCRIBED! I like the colors that you choose for the axle/calipers/beadlocks :D My only question is what is the truss for i have seen them before but don't understand what their purpose is. does it have to do with the one link? or does it just prevent some type of axle movement?
Thanks, the whole truck will eventually be olive drag and flat black. The axle truss is basically there to strengthen the axle housing itself. By tying it into the differential cover/housing, it helps prevent spinning the tubes. The tubes of the axle are simply pressed into the housing then plug welded and if they take too much abuse they could break those welds. If those welds break, the tube could turn in the housing and lead to very bad things haha. So by tying the truss to the housing and tubes, the overall strength is increased ALOT :icon_thumby: It also makes an easy place to attach a steering ram or panhard bar (if i was to run some kind of link suspension)

Thanks for the compliments guys :D
 
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kemicalburns

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i honestly feel that 4"s of up travel is good. its the down travel you want. i would go with a 5 link up front and a 4 link in the rear.
 

leumas12

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i honestly feel that 4"s of up travel is good. its the down travel you want. i would go with a 5 link up front and a 4 link in the rear.
I agree that 4" up travel is good, droop is where its at :cool:.

If i had lots of time and money i would do a 4 link but its way out of my budget as well as more work than i wanna do right now (along with other things, see list above) Thanks :icon_thumby:

Sam
 

kemicalburns

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i hear ya there. never enough time or money these days. or should i say plenty of time but not enough money LOL.

great build, i am following close.
 

leumas12

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thanks :cool:

Took some measurements tonight...

Im back to debating what i want the front suspension to be :annoyed:. In order to get the front axle to sit where i want it the frame would need to be extended 10". Wouldnt be that hard, but annoying because the rivets for the body mounts are at the end of the frame. Also, the spring perches are 32.5" center to center and the frame is 28" center to center. This puts the outside of the frame rail and the inside edge of the spring perfectly aligned. That makes making spring perches not difficult, but annoying to make as well.

Coils and one link may end up being the easier one of the two hahaha. Im thinking its gonna have to be one link because the square tubing i would use as the link material would also be the bottom mount for the coils and shocks. Theres just not enough room on the axle with the truss to fit it all.

So new plan: back to coils in front leaves in the back.
 

kemicalburns

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i think coils up front would give you the better flex offroad and better ride on road. i know how those roads get there in SJ, was a part time resident back on 2000.
 

bobbywalter

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yeah i have my finger in a splint to keep it from bending and tearing it back open. Hopefully if i keep it on there long enough i wont break the skin again just bending the finger! Boy carelessness sure can kick your ass! :buttkick:
you actually stopped working because of that???:icon_confused:


shameless....:annoyed:
 

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