New idea for my homemade steering. Whatcha think?

[koa's93ranger]

Seen a few ppl do this. Seems strong enough but what about my variation.

Think of using this same design, but instead of a rod end, use the gm tie rod insert to attach a tre. I could go with the rod end but I figure the tre would have less slop and last longer.

Not sure whether I should just weld the insert between to two plates, or weld in a 7/8 id piece of Dom and put the insert in that.

Last variation...instead of running this bracket between the two leaves, which causes a lot of bump steer. What if I make this bracket ~4 inches tall and run it over the passenger leaf? Will this be too much leverage on the weld?

Tips, Ideas, comments, insults??? Much appreciated

 

[Hagan]

I'm confused...is this for a straight axle your doing or TTB? You mentioned leafs

 

[brinker88]

Sig says D44/D60 in the works

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

Just do this ^^^ and dont look back. I beat on this kit with a set of 40s and a fullsize truck and couldnt break it. You WILL need to ream your knuckles/pitman arm tho....I think the taper is 1.5"/ft....

http://www.xkut-reamers.com/servlet/the-7/1-dsh-1-fdsh-2"-TAPER-PER-FOOT/Detail

Here's the link for the reamer.

Dont fix something that's not broken

 

[legoms013]

No you would weld on a piece of flat bar 3/4" thick, with a 5/8" hole drilled through it, then ream that hole for the TRE or DRE. Don't weld an insert anywhere. No sense in doing that however...see Brinker's post...you need a "T" style steering setup. That would accomplish exactly what you are looking for. Ruffstuff sells a kit, and so does WFOconcepts and PartsMike...all you have to do is buy a reamer and ream the knuckles and maybe weld some bungs (WFO and PartsMike will make threaded tierods if you can't or don't want to weld anything). If you buy a reamer, only buy the XCut one...most others are inferior and absolute garbage. Is this for a solid axle or TTB? Ignore all that I said if it is for TTB.

I'm not sure what you mean by leaves either, as that is coil sprung axle

 

[bobbywalter]

sounds like he is going with a leaf swap.


simple enough....hi steer arm should be a priority to go with the fine steering component selection linked previously.

 

[koa's93ranger]

Sorry I didn't specify. Solid axle with leaves. I know the Inverted T is the way to go but unless I put 4" blocks under my leaves (never gonna happen) the leaf is right in the way f the drag link. It's hard to explain but This should help....

As you can see, an inverted T wont clear the leaves without blocks. And high steer is gonna cost way too much. Trying to make my own version of inverted T by raising it above the leaves. Many ppl have done it, including sasdranger and wohlf16. My only variation was to incorporate a tre instead of a rod end

 

[4.0B2]

Save up the money. Do hi-steer. Do it right. It's steering-- so do it right. it truly is life or death.

 

[koa's93ranger]

No you would weld on a piece of flat bar 3/4" thick, with a 5/8" hole drilled through it, then ream that hole for the TRE or DRE. Don't weld an insert anywhere. No sense in doing that however...see Brinker's post...you need a "T" style steering setup. That would accomplish exactly what you are looking for. Ruffstuff sells a kit, and so does WFOconcepts and PartsMike...all you have to do is buy a reamer and ream the knuckles and maybe weld some bungs (WFO and PartsMike will make threaded tierods if you can't or don't want to weld anything). If you buy a reamer, only buy the XCut one...most others are inferior and absolute garbage. Is this for a solid axle or TTB? Ignore all that I said if it is for TTB.

I'm not sure what you mean by leaves either, as that is coil sprung axle

So you think a 3/4" plate is better than 2 separate 1/4" plates like everyone else does?

I think you guys are kinda missing my concept haha. This is an inverted T setup, just a customized version, made to clear leaves. Most ppl put it in between the leaves like sasdranger and wohlf 16. I'm just trying to move it outside the leaves for less bumpsteer. I'll try to draw up something to help explain

 

[koa's93ranger]

Here's my half ass 30 second illustration

Everyone does the design on the right. Causing bad bumpsteer.
My idea is on the left

 

[koa's93ranger]

Save up the money. Do hi-steer. Do it right. It's steering-- so do it right. it truly is life or death.

This poses another question, does my driver knuckle need to be machined? Or do I just swap out the stock steering arm for a new one?

 

[legoms013]

So you think a 3/4" plate is better than 2 separate 1/4" plates like everyone else does?

Yes.

I don't understand how two 1/4" plate would work anyway Maybe you can elaborate.

A TRE can only be configured in single shear, not sure why you would use two smaller thickness plates when all you have to do is set it up like a "knuckle".

I did the same thing for my TTB a while back. 3/4" thick steel, 5/8" hole, reamed for a DRE, basically the same thing you are trying to do 'cept you are SA. Look right in front of the pumpkin:

All you are trying to do is put this pivot point up higher above your leaves:

But by welding on a huge piece of steel and increasing the distance between the applied forces and reactive forces, I can almost guarantee that you will get lots of "tie rod roll" since the applied forces are no longer concurrent with each other. Will result in feeling like a dead spot.

Plus if you put your block of steel on the outside like in your napkin pic you drew, its gonna hit the leaf when you turn left. The only reason it works in your first pic is because that vehicle (apparently nor your own) has coils.

This poses another question, does my driver knuckle need to be machined? Or do I just swap out the stock steering arm for a new one?

If it is a flat top knuckle then yes all you gotta do is have a 4x4 wheel shop mill it flat, and drill tap it. I know WFO and PartsMike both do it. You just send them your knuckle(s). Otherwise no you gotta find one, and have it machined or buy aftermarket knuckles which are already done up.

I highly suggest saving your money and doing it right. This is your steering after all....and this is the EXACT reason why millions of offroaders have converted to highsteer (leaf interference). Not something to be half assed.

Would be much easier though if you used a heim...

 

[koa's93ranger]

i undesratnd what youre saying about that dead spot feeling from the tie rod rolling. but wouldnt the same affects happen if i were to use a heim joint like the very first picture i posted? your idea of using a 3/4" plate does sound better than the two 1/4" plates but you were missing my idea of using the tre weld in insert between those 2 plates. and it makes sense that a taller bracket may flex and break, which is why i was asking what you guys think of that idea. as for it hitting the leaves, ive measured the clearance and it wouldnt be an issue.

even if i were to put it between the two leaves like others did, i would rather incorporate a tre due to the short life span of heim joints

 

[koa's93ranger]

i was just trying to come up with my own steering design like many ppl do. some effective, some not so much. but the ones that are effective seem to become very popular very rapidly and if my design worked, many ppl may benefit from it. and if not....lesson learned, back to the drawing board.

i just get that warm tingly feeling inside when i fab up my own crap and it holds up to a serious beating haha. then the next guy and take my ideas and evolve it to their own. i mean, isnt that how crossover steering began?

like the first pic i posted, or gm 1 ton steering setup or rbvs, that wasnt factory. everyone thought that whoever started that was an idiot for reaming out the gm tre or welding plates for heim joints, and attatching a drag link and not doing full on hi steer. and look at its popularity now

 

[koa's93ranger]

legoms, i like how you reamed out 3/4" steel and attatched a tre to it. i love it. if i werent about to do a swap, id do that to my current steering to beef it up.

 

[4x4junkie]

I have to agree, your big problem will be the tierod rolling back & forth with that big tall bracket attached to it (even what's shown in the first pic you posted isn't without some issues, your idea would greatly magnify them)

Like has already been said, the only real way out of this is with a proper Hi-Steer setup (or at least a passengerside knuckle having a hi-steer arm on it to attach the draglink to).