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No shifts


TheBrokenRanger

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1994
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Ford ranger 4.0
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Manual
Hey y’all I scrolled for awhile and couldn’t find anything covering this. If I missed it I apologize for bringing up something covered. I have a 1994 4x4 4.0 manual. transmission went bad after owning it for a couple months my buddy with a 2x2 said it would be easy so I didn’t do much research before I tore into it. Anyways exhaust bolts were to rusted nothing worked so I had to cut the exhaust off. I removed transmission after running into the normal amount of problems, (all of the problems possible)
I replaced transmission, clutch line, clutch, pressure plate, transmission fluid, and slave. After doing all that work it won’t go into gear. It will go into gear when the truck isn’t running it will shift fine as soon as you start the engine push the clutch all the way in it’s like the gears don’t exist no grinding no nothing. Thinking through it I assume I got a bad slave cylinder? Is there a way to verify this so I don’t remove the transmission and replace the wrong part? Any tips or knowledge would be appreciated.
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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They are very difficult to bleed in place. I'm guessing you have air in the clutch fluid system. There is a video somewhere that shows how to bench bleed the system out of the truck, but I think its too late. Pressure bleed or vacuum bleed would be best bet. You can use a mason jar, couple fittings and clear hose to make an engine driven vacuum bleeder.
 

Josh B

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How does that work?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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My pics are on another computer, tho I've posted it on here a few times. I'll take a quick look before writing..
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I use a Mason jar, about 15' of clear hose to engine vacuum source, another 2' chunk of hose to bleeder, and both to the mason jar. (15' hose about 1/2" into lid, 2' hose thru lid to bottom of mason jar.). Don't need fittings. Drill hole in lid just slightly smaller than hose. Make sure to keep fluid in master. It goes quick.
Engine running...
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4WD
Also check out this thread;

 

TheBrokenRanger

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Alright I appreciate it y’all I’ll definitely try that. This just leaves me baffled as to why it has such a stupid design
 

TheBrokenRanger

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They are very difficult to bleed in place. I'm guessing you have air in the clutch fluid system. There is a video somewhere that shows how to bench bleed the system out of the truck, but I think its too late. Pressure bleed or vacuum bleed would be best bet. You can use a mason jar, couple fittings and clear hose to make an engine driven vacuum bleeder.
Hey man I removed the whole system and vacuum bled it for hours with the master cylinder upside down and tons of air came out I was sure that fixed it with how much air came out but I reinstalled it and it still won’t shift? Is it possibly just a defective slave?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I'm not sure.
A couple other possibilities I've personally run into;
Firewall flexing and cracked.
Master cylinder bolt ears broken, one or both.
 

scotts90ranger

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Ok, this sounds dumb but sometimes works... engine off or in neutral, clutch pedal to the floor then slip your foot off the pedal and let it slam back, repeat a bunch of times... this sometimes helps get air out of the master.
 

tw205

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6” skyjacker 2” body
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33x12.5
Did you replace the trans? Does the clutch feel normal? Does it start in gear with the clutch in and not move the truck??
 

SenorNoob

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1.5" Front + 4" Rear
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Ok, this sounds dumb but sometimes works... engine off or in neutral, clutch pedal to the floor then slip your foot off the pedal and let it slam back, repeat a bunch of times... this sometimes helps get air out of the master.

Doesn't sound dumb to me at all. Last time I did one, I ended up on my knees beside the truck using my hand to push and pull the pedal very rapidly while I had Brittney keeping the reservoir full. All this with the bleeder barely cracked. She kept it full till I could get under the truck and tighten the bleeder. It was a mess, but worked.
 

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