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oil preference/recommendation


4x4junkie

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Valvoline 10W-30 conventional here. Both my '90 2.9L (300K+ miles on it) and '94 4.0L (~115K miles) get it.

My '94 suffered it's first 6-7 years on Fram PH8A filters before I discovered the reports on them on BITOG and other sites (reportedly they were once good, but like many things (Moog ball joints anyone?) they went to shit once they had built a reputation for themselves that they continue to feed off of). Since then I've been going back & forth between the Purolator L30001 or Motorcraft FL1A, depending which filter is available cheaper (both were shown to be exactly the same filter, aside from the shape of the inlet holes).
Walmart sells the FL1A for approx $3-4, so more often than not that is what's on it.
 


PetroleumJunkie412

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My credo
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Oem or bosch for me.

Got into it with Mobil over a filter at one point. The test results and official statement on the pile of crap I sent back to them was that their filters will drop oil pressure by 3 psi.

FWIW
 

G8orFord

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Just the right size to touch the ground.
A couple of observations.
1. Oil pressure is measured after the filter. If your oil pressure goes up after changing filters, the filter that you swapped to is less restrictive. That may or may not be a good thing. It could mean the new filter isn't really filtering much or it could mean the old filter was not allowing enough flow. Either way, if the filter works as it should, the bypass should keep the oil pressure to a proper level.

2. The engine was designed for Ford/Motocraft filters. You really cannot go wrong using them. Unless and until someone proves that they have gone to the dog's like Fram has, I'll use them.
 

Josh B

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I get Motor-craft filters at Wmart, last time bought 4, still have 2.
Motor-craft 5W or 10W-30(depending on season) at an oil supply, about $4 qt, it was 3.75 until just recently
 

sgtsandman

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Oem or bosch for me.

Got into it with Mobil over a filter at one point. The test results and official statement on the pile of crap I sent back to them was that their filters will drop oil pressure by 3 psi.

FWIW
Bosch! That's another one in the list I made!
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Wait, what list? You're into lists, too??
 

racsan

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I didnt know “project farm” did a oil filter comparison. I’ll have to check that out. Ive liked alot of his testings. Ive been known to run pureorlater occasionally, Mobil 1 filters sure are pricey. its rediculous what a cartridge filter costs for the hhr. no outer “can” and its twice as much! oddly enough its less messy to change than the FL-1A on the truck (which as you know with a 2.3 goes on sideways). not sure what the escape has, it had oil changed before I took delivery so it will be april/may before I change oil/filter in it.
 

sgtsandman

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I think he did one but I can’t be sure. I just threw his name out as an example. With all the stuff he has done, I wouldn’t be surprised if he has done an oil filter comparison.
 

Dirtman

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I dont think project farm did oil filter comparisons. I watch his stuff, he's kinda a goofy dude but he does do somewhat honest quasi scientific comparisons of stuff.

This guy does a little comparison but no samples of them being run and then cut open. That's a pretty impossible test to do since you would need a dozen identical engines driven identically...

 

4.0blue98

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I used MC filters almost exclusively for quite a while and have recently but that tearing issue they had not too long ago sent me strongly toward Wix and the K&N Pro series. I've probably used every brand out there at some point including Fram (usually the TG or XG). I always cut my filters open after removing.
 

black_demon69

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wix or napa gold filters (napa filters are made by wix) they have a good price and are readily available.. also are well made

as for oil full synthetic valvoline or castrol weight depends on vehicle getting service..
 

JohnnyO

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I'm one of the OCD people who occasionally gets his used oil tested by a lab. Tested several in my 4.0 Sport Trac and got the best results for viscosity and wear metals with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Most of the time a Motorcraft filter, sometimes a NAPA Gold or K&N if they're on sale. I got it new, has 190,000 miles on it now and runs like new. Does not use oil. I rarely add any and if it's down a quart it's usually time to change it anyway.

i belong to the BITOG board too where people post their used oil analysis results. Basically you won't go wrong with Pennzoil Platinum, Motorcraft Blend, Mobil 1, and Valvoline Synpower or Max Life.
 

racsan

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Bitog is a good place for oil information. Ive never done oil analysis before, just change every 4,000 unless oil is very discolored before then, a good filter such as motorcraft or purolator, pennzoil (usually high milage 5w30) I think the ranger leaks more oil than it burns, not bad though, its down 1/2 a qt at about 2,500 miles. (its at 156K). The hhr uses a qt about every 3,000 miles. (its at 145K) .Havent had the escape long enough to know anything yet. (Its at 140K). The allis seems to use oil and leak both quite a bit. no hourmeter and dont know its history at all. compression aint great, but it starts every time, no choke needed in the summer. add oil about once a month during mowing season. I run shell rotella 15w40 in it, wix filter. When it wont start good or handle the mower any more I’ll give it a overhaul. I change it every fall before I put it away for the winter. Once I put a 3-point kit on it I will get a back blade for any heavy snow. Already have a 3-point mount disc.
 

andremajic

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I have put fumoto drain plugs on all of my vehicles that have good ground clearance, including my ford ranger. I also installed one with the correct thread pitch on the Toyota Sienna transmission so I can do the "Poor man's oil flush" (drain/fill/run/drain/fill/run/x3).
Since rebuilding my Ranger manual transmission I checked the fluid at 14,000 miles and it is still as red and clear as the day I filled it. But automatic transmissions are a little more expensive to rebuild, so that's why I like the preventive maintenance. Fluid is cheap, transmissions are not!
Andy
 

Josh B

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I have put fumoto drain plugs on all of my vehicles that have good ground clearance, including my ford ranger. I also installed one with the correct thread pitch on the Toyota Sienna transmission so I can do the "Poor man's oil flush" (drain/fill/run/drain/fill/run/x3).
Since rebuilding my Ranger manual transmission I checked the fluid at 14,000 miles and it is still as red and clear as the day I filled it. But automatic transmissions are a little more expensive to rebuild, so that's why I like the preventive maintenance. Fluid is cheap, transmissions are not!
Andy
Hello Andre :) Did you have much experience in rebuilding a transmission prior to doing your Ranger?
 

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