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Hi all. I'm working on a 2001 Ranger that I turbocharged last year. For background, it's the 2.5L block with a 1997 2.3 crank and pistons/rods out of a turbocoupe. Anyways, I've got an issue with the clutch disengaging that I just can't figure out.
Current configuration:
Luk Flywheel for 95-2001 4 cylinder
Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for 95+ 3.0L part # DF975975 (only difference between 2.3/2.5 and 3.0 clutches is 8.875" vs 9.125" disc, using the 3.0L disc offers increased torque capacity which is a necessity for the turbo engine)
New Luk slave cylinder
New Sachs (stickers indicate it was actually ZF) master cylinder and line
The clutch worked great when I first finished the turbo swap. Then over the course of the last year it started getting hard to shift into gear from stop. This was the classic symptom of a failing master, so I installed a new master and bench bled the master/line and then gravity bled once it was connected to the slave in the truck. This didn't help at all. After that I replaced the slave cylinder (for the second time). After that it shifted great about 15 times and then reverted to the old problem. Since then I also replaced the master and line again (pre-filled this time). Again, I bench bled, connected to the slave in the truck, bled with the master inverted, and then finished with a gravity bleed. Pedal is 100% firm indicating no air in the system. Still the clutch drags though. It's also odd that the "grab" point is the typical 1.5" from top of pedal travel. However the remaining 5" of pedal travel does not stop the dragging.
So at this point I believe I've cleared the hydraulics. My next test will be to measure actual slave cyl travel and compare it to my 2011 2.3L Ranger. If that passes I guess it's time to drop the trans and tear into the clutch itself. This is disappointing given the centerforce is a $400 clutch.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Current configuration:
Luk Flywheel for 95-2001 4 cylinder
Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for 95+ 3.0L part # DF975975 (only difference between 2.3/2.5 and 3.0 clutches is 8.875" vs 9.125" disc, using the 3.0L disc offers increased torque capacity which is a necessity for the turbo engine)
New Luk slave cylinder
New Sachs (stickers indicate it was actually ZF) master cylinder and line
The clutch worked great when I first finished the turbo swap. Then over the course of the last year it started getting hard to shift into gear from stop. This was the classic symptom of a failing master, so I installed a new master and bench bled the master/line and then gravity bled once it was connected to the slave in the truck. This didn't help at all. After that I replaced the slave cylinder (for the second time). After that it shifted great about 15 times and then reverted to the old problem. Since then I also replaced the master and line again (pre-filled this time). Again, I bench bled, connected to the slave in the truck, bled with the master inverted, and then finished with a gravity bleed. Pedal is 100% firm indicating no air in the system. Still the clutch drags though. It's also odd that the "grab" point is the typical 1.5" from top of pedal travel. However the remaining 5" of pedal travel does not stop the dragging.
So at this point I believe I've cleared the hydraulics. My next test will be to measure actual slave cyl travel and compare it to my 2011 2.3L Ranger. If that passes I guess it's time to drop the trans and tear into the clutch itself. This is disappointing given the centerforce is a $400 clutch.
Anyone have any other ideas?