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Ranger Rear End


danielwd

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If I have my truck jacked up on jack stands and in neutral (I have a manual drive), and I turn the driveshaft manually, and only the back wheel on the driver's side turns (the other back tire doesn't), then is this a huge problem?



While test driving yesterday, after replacing the timing belt and clutch, I noticed the back right area, around the wheel - but not the wheel itself, was smoking heavily.



By the way, when I turn the right wheel (passenger side), the left one turns with in in close synchronization, however, when I turn the left wheel (driver's side), the right wheel doesn't follow hardly at all if at all.
 


MountainMike

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It almost sounds like your passenger side brake is engaged but I'm just guessing.
 

bduke23

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Yea, I'd check your brakes on that side, it could be your park brake sticking. That would defiantely cause the smoke. Is the right wheel hard to turn when you turn it by hand?
 

adsm08

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Agreed. Sounds like the brake is stuck.

Beyond that it sounds like you have a perfectly functioning open rear end.
 

danielwd

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Thanks for the input ya'll. After taking off the drum of the wheel I have figured that the rear end is fine. In fact, the back, passenger side tire will spin freely when manually turning the drive shaft now (when the drum is off). When I put the drum back on I can feel some friction at certain points when trying to turn the wheel. Driver's side wheel is fine and turns absolutely freely.

Is there an adjustment nut for the parking break on a 1994 Ranger 2.3L? The Haynes manual exclaims that the parking break system is completely self-adjusting but I dont know if I believe that. I did follow both cables from both wheels into a box looking structure about the rear differential and then a hose from there to the side of the truck where it connects with another hose within a bracket.

Would messing with any of the bolts on these cables possibly adjust the parking break?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Those hoses have cables inside. There is one cable that comes from the e-brake pedal inside the cab to where it joins two cables [junction] leading to your rear end brakes. The junction is approximately under your drivers side door and has the ability to be adjusted to [IIRC] take out slack from stretched cables. AFAIK there is no adjustment like you want to do, but a cable could be seized, causing a problem.
Warning, I'm self taught. Procedures may have changed. Double check the info.
Good luck,

Richard
 

fangotango306

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^sounds right
 

danielwd

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Well I have played around a bit and am unable to make sense of this cable that extends from the parking break pedal all the way back to the wheels.

I am not so sure I have a parking break issue. I think that the springs from my breaks are the originals from 1994 and I think they may not be holding the shoes tight enough with enough tension. This would cause the breaks to give way and essentially rub against the drum non stop. The parking break seems to work fine as I've had someone hit the pedal and it has about the same action on both wheels. I am not sure what's going on now - I thought it was the parking break getting hung up, now I think it is the breaks.
 

scotts90ranger

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a hardware kit for the rear drums is only about $10 at Napa including all springs and stuff, would be worth while
 

danielwd

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a hardware kit for the rear drums is only about $10 at Napa including all springs and stuff, would be worth while
Thanks for the info! I'll give it a whirl!
 

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