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Rear Axle Bearing Symtoms?


Bob C. of Indiana

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I notice a little binding when I back out of my drive and put in drive straighten up and drive away..Seems it started right after a rear gear lube with limited slip lube...I'm thinking axle bearing,u-joints or rear brake shoe binding,it is only on the drivers side it seems so I leaning toward outer axle bearing...Also seems to have a lot of excess play in the drive line..What's your thoughts? TIA, Bob C.
 


Andy D

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It may be clutch chatter from the LSD . If it is just first thing and goes away, I wouldn't worry.
 

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Axle bearings going out will whine while driving, just like any other wheel bearing going out.
 

doorgunner

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Glazed-over clutch discs maybe?......we used to drain the diff. oil & refill diff. with A/T fluid....
then drive the vehicle for about 5 miles in town making lots of left & righthand turns......
then drain the A/T fluid out.....
then put the good L/S/D oil back into the diff.

but verify this with the other members!
 

Bob C. of Indiana

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I took my Ranger to a small mom and pop repair place up the street and they just charged me $35 and I have a feeling they put what ever oil and L\S additive they had at Napa so I ordered 3 qts of Motorcraft 80W-90 rear-end oil and Motorcraft L\S additive which cost me over $50 for both and will have them drain it and install the Motorcraft parts and see if that don't cure it...It didn't do until they serviced it and there is no way that they used Motorcraft for what they charged me so I believe that is the problem..Thanks
 
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Will

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I wouldn't be quick to blame them. They buy GL-5 in drums, not in bottles, so their cost is much less. Also, it's harder to be a Mom-n-Pop because it's all word of mouth. They wouldn't be there if they were idiots. Almost all the small places are gone. People want McDonalds type service at an automotive repair shop. If you go back there, they will show you what they put into your axle. I would go back and find out what happened. After you sort it out, they will be the nicest people in the world to you. They aren't out to screw you. They would have been long gone if that was how they operated. I only go to those small places. Last time I went to a big place was Big-O tires and they aligned my TTB Ranger by holding it up under the coils. I was lucky to make it home alive.
 

Bob C. of Indiana

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I wouldn't be quick to blame them. They buy GL-5 in drums, not in bottles, so their cost is much less. Also, it's harder to be a Mom-n-Pop because it's all word of mouth. They wouldn't be there if they were idiots. Almost all the small places are gone. People want McDonalds type service at an automotive repair shop. If you go back there, they will show you what they put into your axle. I would go back and find out what happened. After you sort it out, they will be the nicest people in the world to you. They aren't out to screw you. They would have been long gone if that was how they operated. I only go to those small places. Last time I went to a big place was Big-O tires and they aligned my TTB Ranger by holding it up under the coils. I was lucky to make it home alive.
I'm not going back to chew ass I'm going back because I trust them...They have already drained and refilled it once but I think they put back the same oil and L\S additive they bought earlier so this time I am going to repay them to add the genuine Ford Motorcraft oil and L\S additive and see if that don't cure it..I like that place they have always treated me right and the price is always fair and I send them customers every chance I get..Thanks for your opinion..Bob C.
 

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bobbywalter

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motorcraft oil......mmmm no.



motorcraft l/s fluid maybe.


if the wrong oil was in there on the other hand, its too late.

but the l/s additive they used possibly was not slimy enough, i have had that happen more then a few times.


i would have added the l/s additive and called it a day, the 90 weight you bought is a waste in the sense you intend it, but not so bad as it gives you peace of mind, and a double douching of a well worn diff should be a good thing.





generally ime, whine comes from altered lash due to worn carrier/and or pinion bearings.

and a groan or growl and vibration comes from axleshaft bearings. usually the wheel seals start to leak as well when the shaft bearings are worn to making noise...often the shaft is tore up as well when that happens.

i am sure they inspected it all though. if its simple clutch chatter the additive will solve it pretty quick.
 

Bob C. of Indiana

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motorcraft oil......mmmm no.



motorcraft l/s fluid maybe.


if the wrong oil was in there on the other hand, its too late.

but the l/s additive they used possibly was not slimy enough, i have had that happen more then a few times.


i would have added the l/s additive and called it a day, the 90 weight you bought is a waste in the sense you intend it, but not so bad as it gives you peace of mind, and a double douching of a well worn diff should be a good thing.





generally ime, whine comes from altered lash due to worn carrier/and or pinion bearings.

and a groan or growl and vibration comes from axleshaft bearings. usually the wheel seals start to leak as well when the shaft bearings are worn to making noise...often the shaft is tore up as well when that happens.

i am sure they inspected it all though. if its simple clutch chatter the additive will solve it pretty quick.
My point being It didn't have chatter before they changed the fluid and added some aftermarket L\S additive ...I just proactively took it in for a maintenance thing so I am willing to pay again to get it changed to the factory spec lubes required as I can't see as being a issue...I'm just a nit picky person who notices changes and want it right..

I noticed another non-connected issue today as well...I was sitting at a stop light on a incline when I gave it throttle to take off the rpm's raised and like one small drive train clunk then another then it took off smoothly..What's up with that?? Rear u-joints maybe?
 
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bobbywalter

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understood about the chatter being post oil change.


assumed they inspected the drive line and diff.



but, if they did not put spec oil in, that would be bad.

i know how oil is made. and i know for certain there is quite a range for many types of additive packages for various types of lubricant oils after fractioning. there are superior products for damn sure, over the minimum standards.


but this for the most part affects how long a fluid will last in a set of conditions more then anything.

possible they added the wrong modifier or did not add any l/s modifier lube.



or you have an upstream mechanical issue like you suspect.


pretty simple, jack it up and start turning stuff to see what is loose or appears to be sloppy:icon_thumby:
 

Bob C. of Indiana

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understood about the chatter being post oil change.


assumed they inspected the drive line and diff.



but, if they did not put spec oil in, that would be bad.

i know how oil is made. and i know for certain there is quite a range for many types of additive packages for various types of lubricant oils after fractioning. there are superior products for damn sure, over the minimum standards.


but this for the most part affects how long a fluid will last in a set of conditions more then anything.

possible they added the wrong modifier or did not add any l/s modifier lube.



or you have an upstream mechanical issue like you suspect.


pretty simple, jack it up and start turning stuff to see what is loose or appears to be sloppy:icon_thumby:
It's going in next Thursday for the Motorcraft oil and L\S and I will have them check the complete driveline at that time..It seems just a little sloppy...If it needs u-joints what brand is best,Motorcraft? Also years ago I needed u-joints and it had a shake through all the gears at any speed on mine I just notice it as a double clunk on take off...Thanks
 

bobbywalter

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could be bad mounts, busted spring or blown bushings, loose bolts etc. sometimes you bust and spit a piece of spring and its loose....hell it could be anything, cant see it from here. when i hear something i immediately stop and inspect it till i know what it is....this saved me a shit ton of money.


spicer joints are the preferred brand of myself, they would be the motorcraft joint if there was one.
 

Bob C. of Indiana

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could be bad mounts, busted spring or blown bushings, loose bolts etc. sometimes you bust and spit a piece of spring and its loose....hell it could be anything, cant see it from here. when i hear something i immediately stop and inspect it till i know what it is....this saved me a shit ton of money.


spicer joints are the preferred brand of myself, they would be the motorcraft joint if there was one.
I went to fordparts.com what a maze of different u-joints available how in the heck to you find the one for your vehicle? Rockauto was a nightmare too..There not all that expensive either which was a shock..
 

Andy D

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Try a local parts place that sells Spicer U-joints. You can get them greaseable or permanently lubed, IIR$C, I paid 13.50 $
 

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