Rear drums are sticking

[KornTruck2]

Hey guys. I had to do some work to my truck, my rear wheel cylinders were leaking and destroyed everything. I had to do axle bearings and seals as well. All this stuff is cut and dry, the bearings got tapped in with a bearing setter, same for the seal. I replaced the 10” brakes setup, i replaced everything with a kit, i used timken bearings and napa seals. I do not hear the axle howling, the hub center reads at 114 on both sides. Pass side reads about 170 on the outer edge where the shoe rides. On the drivers side, its 290. I took everything apart, the l made sure the place sensitive parts are on the right side. The only thing i can really thing is the wheel cylinders, i sorta want to move them side to side. I also partially think that even all the way adjusted down, there should be more play. Is there a chance that
I just need to burn these parts in? I need help, thank you so much

 

[KornTruck2]

I half thought to myself they should slide on and off. The linings may be too thick. Or the drums need to be cut. That seems like the easiest method i think. I swapped drums left to right, that was the only interchangeable part besides the red springs.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It looks to me in one of those pictures with all your new parts on... driver side... like the primary shoe is not up against the anchor pin.

If that is the case... the park brake strut is holding it away from the pin. This is caused by a misadjusted or seized up park brake cable.

 

[19Walt93]

Once you're sure the parking brake is fully released I'd look at the brake adjusters. I've never seen a setup like that on a Ford, did the old parts look the same?

 

[mikkelstuff]

Time to junk those rear drum brakes and go with the Mustang disc brake conversion. Details and instructions are on this website.

I made a detailed journal with pictures of when I did the conversion on my 2002 Ranger. One of the best things I've done for this truck. Send me a PM with email address if you would like a copy.

 

[don4331]

Your issue is the shoe isn't seated on the top pin

I've blown up and pointed to the issue. As the shoe is 5mm from the pin, they are way out of position. That is why the drums won't slip on.

You need to figure out why the shoe isn't against the pin (Is it in too deep, and resting on the backing plate, etc)

When do brakes I use a ratchet strap to hold the shoes on the pins while I a getting all the pieces in place.

 

[pjtoledo]

I've had to custom fit brake shoes to drums before.

I set the shoes inside the drum, placed a socket the exact diameter as the anchor pin at the top and placed the self adjuster at the bottom.
needed to cut the notches on the self adjuster a couple times.
made sure the curvature matched the drum.
then once mounted I marked the shoe up with a magic marker and spun the drums to find high spots.
used a metal shaver type of file to shave the high spots which usually were the ends.

be sure the parking arm is fully retracted.

 

[KornTruck2]

Time to junk those rear drum brakes and go with the Mustang disc brake conversion. Details and instructions are on this website.

I made a detailed journal with pictures of when I did the conversion on my 2002 Ranger. One of the best things I've done for this truck. Send me a PM with email address if you would like a copy.

already 250 in repair, going rear disc after all this put me in the hole deeper.

 

[KornTruck2]

Your issue is the shoe isn't seated on the top pin
View attachment 97799
I've blown up and pointed to the issue. As the shoe is 5mm from the pin, they are way out of position. That is why the drums won't slip on.

You need to figure out why the shoe isn't against the pin (Is it in too deep, and resting on the backing plate, etc)

When do brakes I use a ratchet strap to hold the shoes on the pins while I a getting all the pieces in place.

Thats a very good catch. Those are not weak springs, i didnt even think about that. Thats the most logical thing.

 

[KornTruck2]

Once you're sure the parking brake is fully released I'd look at the brake adjusters. I've never seen a setup like that on a Ford, did the old parts look the same?

They actually did, same color springs, the adjuster matched up. It went together super easy.

 

[KornTruck2]

It looks to me in one of those pictures with all your new parts on... driver side... like the primary shoe is not up against the anchor pin.

If that is the case... the park brake strut is holding it away from the pin. This is caused by a misadjusted or seized up park brake cable.

I dont use the ebrake, but could i just remove that little strut amd i should know immediatly

 

[KornTruck2]

Time to junk those rear drum brakes and go with the Mustang disc brake conversion. Details and instructions are on this website.

I made a detailed journal with pictures of when I did the conversion on my 2002 Ranger. One of the best things I've done for this truck. Send me a PM with email address if you would like a copy.

I swear, i was nodding my head to my son, i was like “for fifty bucks more we could have just done the disc, i dont know why i didnt..

 

[Uncle Gump]

You could take it out to diagnose... but if both shoes aren't seated against the anchor pin... it is the problem.

I'm in no way saying you should not have a fully functioning emergency brake... because you should.

Take a large screwdriver and put it on the cable end of the park brake lever. Give it a couple solid raps with a hammer. It just might put the free play back into that stuck cable.

 

[KornTruck2]

You could take it out to diagnose... but if both shoes aren't seated against the anchor pin... it is the problem.

I'm in no way saying you should not have a fully functioning emergency brake... because you should.

Take a large screwdriver and put it on the cable end of the park brake lever. Give it a couple solid raps with a hammer. It just might put the free play back into that stuck cable.

I agree, i need an emergency brake. But, it will take 10 minutes to do this and i will know. Thank you, appreciate it

 

[19Walt93]

I dont use the ebrake, but could i just remove that little strut amd i should know immediatly

Please don't remove the parking brake, if people ever saw the park pawl in an automatic transmission they would never park on a hill without setting the brake. And if the hydraulic brakes should fail, having minimally effective mechanical brakes on only the rear wheels is way better than no brakes at all. And yes, I've seen full hydraulic brake failuers, usually after a "tech" at Jiffy Lube topped up the master cylinder with power steering fluid.