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Removed dashboard, now truck won't start


achampagne

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I have an 83 ranger with a 302 in it. One of the things I am doing to it is building a new dashboard, so I removed the old one. I left the ignition switch on the column alone though. Now, the truck will not start, even though it started fine before. The starter turns, and the carb spits fuel but thats it. I replaced the ignition module (duraspark 2), nothing. I replaced the distributor cap, nothing. I made sure the coil was not broken, still nothing. The only thing I can think of is somehow the signal is not being sent to the coil to send out a spark.
I looked over the wiring using the diagram below:
72898

and everything still checks out. It is worth noting that I bought the truck with the 302 in it, and it ran. the 302 uses the same ignition system as a stock 83 ranger. Is there something I am missing from the igntion system that would prevent the spark from not being sent out? some sort of security device that got disconnected? The next thing I want to replace is the sensor in distributor that sends a signal to the igniton module, but idk ehy that wouldve broken. I do want to rewire the truck and remove most of the non essential wiring, so would yall suggest just doing that now?
 


RonD

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Does the coil have 12volts with key on?

Does the coil have 12volts(10volts) when starter motor is active?

Nothing in the cluster would effect start up

But if wires got shorted in the dash then fuse would blow and that would effect startup

In 1983 there should be a fusible link coming off the Starter Relays Battery Positive post
It connects to a Yellow wire that runs into the cab and to the ignition switch
If starter activation has not be modified then this 12v yellow wire should be OK


And just a heads up for future reference
If you have a Duraspark distributor then HEI spark module is a more reliable system
 

achampagne

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@RonD yes 12v when key is on. I have not checked if its 12v when starter is active. I recall seeing a yellow wire going to the ignition switch.
is swapping to HEI plug and play?
Also, is there any way of testing if the distributor is sending out a signal?
 

RonD

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Use a test light hooked to battery positive and Coil "-", light should flash when cranking

Or hook timing light up

Use OHM Meter to test the purple(or green) and orange wire coming out of distributor, unplug connector at module to test it, should see 50 to 200 ohms if its OK
3rd Black wire is a ground


Google: Duraspark HEI conversion
Easy to do but not plug and play, must cut and splice some wires
 
Last edited:

achampagne

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Panama City Beach, FL
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2000
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Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
@RonD Update: tested the resistance for the distributor wires, and it checked out. Also replaced the coil, and that did not get it started. I tested the current coming out of the coil with my multimeter, and it was not showing much current coming out.
 

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