Replacing Head Gasket


karaoke_carlos

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Hi,

I'm going back to Ranger ownership. Getting a 93 Ranger 3.0 with a blown head gasket. I just bought the gasket kit, and I was told I need to replace the head bolts as well.

Is there a procedure for this documented anywhere on this site? Or should I just follow the Haynes/Chilton's procedure?

Thanks a bunch in advance!

Carlos
 


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skinner

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I just got done doing this...about a week ago on my 3.0.

I found the Haynes manual rather useless...
Just start at the top and work your way down.
BE SURE to label each wire and hose very specifically. And almost even probably more important...label each bolt and nut!!
I had too many that I forgot what went where. The Alternator + bracket and the AC unit must come off. Don't gotta remove the AC lines, they will bend once you get the rest going. The A/C Bracket is a PITA to get at the front bolts...I took the tensioner off ...which I was replacing anyways but in hindishgt itll save you busted knuckles either way.
Have the heads milled...
I paid about 275 for a valve job, exhaust seats replaced, and the heads milled down a hair.
Its not cheap, but its not fun taking it bad apart either.
I'd go ahead and buy the head bolts too...I always do.
If you need torque specs let me know.
 

karaoke_carlos

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It would be great if you could provide torque settings. I think i saw the torque sequence elsewhere in the site.
 

Snowdoogie

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Hi Guys,
I was wondering if I can pick your brain, why are you changing head gaskets, what lead you too the conclusion that the head gaskets are no good.
I've been trouble shooting my 3.0l and i think, it is, either intake or head gasket.
Thanks.
 

skinner

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I had bubbling coolant and a misfire. Turned out to be the intake...and i knew this when three bolts on one side were only finger tight. But I decided if I had got that far to go for the gusto...
what are your symptoms?
Its hard to blow a head gasket on a 3.0. Its an iron block/iron head OHV. Gutless but reliable as hell.
As i've said before...do a radiator gas test.
Its called at autozone a block tester. Cost 20 bucks to rent(or keep..i kept mine). Block test fluid is about 8 bucks. Don't let them tell you it doesnt exist.
Drain a bit out of the radiator, and let it run while you test.
Its a pretty definitive test.
 

Snowdoogie

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Hi Skinner, thanks for your reply, Yes I've been lossing coolant. When it is hot out 25+ C it bubbles pushing out the rad cap. I,ve got a missfire as well. Two plugs on the back of the engine, there does'nt appear to be cumbustion. Plugs look like new with 80,000km. engine codes come up saying it's running lean.
I've just had the MAF replaced and the intake cleaned, I've check for vaccuum leaks(none) Replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and plug wires, I was going to flush the cooling system tommorrow, replace upper and lower rad hoses, new idler, and tenesion bearings with a new belt.
Looks like I should be doing top end gasket set as well.
I thought, I was on the right track.

Anti-freeze is yellow(like oil is in there), and rated at -29C

Look forward to your input.

Sorry I did'nt mean to hi-jack thread.
 

skinner

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Do a block test. Mine had VERY similar symptoms and was simply the intake manifold gasket. Youll turn a week of work into a day of work if its only the manifold gasket.
 

Snowdoogie

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Thanks skinner,
Yeah, that won't take me long to fix, my garagre is set up well.
 

karaoke_carlos

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Hmmm i'm revisiting the idea... but I can smell the coolant leaking somewhere... and I feel/hear a miss... so I think I'm close to it. I'm going to do a compression test sometime this week, in hopes of finding out for sure if, and which head.
 


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