still no luck, ideas?

[jaymegriffiths]

so my trucks idled like a POS for quite some time now, with periods of functionality. the problem is shown here:
IDLE PROBLEMO
so the problem is that it hunts for a medium but just goes up and down, almost stalling, until it jumps back up and high idles again. i've changed: tfi, plugs, cap+rotor, air idle control, map sensor, and checked some electrical connections. also, recently, its begun having difficulty starting. it cranks over for nearly 60 seconds sometimes, which is rediculous. the starting issue was not an issue when this video takes place, which leads me to believe its not necessarily, but possibly related to the erratic idle.
so today i did a self eec test, and what i got was this:
6blinks.short pause, 7 blinks, short (but slightly longer to signify seperation of numbers) pause, 6 blinks, then 7 blinks, ie code 67, then a longer pause, then 1 blink, pause then 1 blink, pause, then 1 blink, pause then 4 blinks, pause then 1 then 4, then 9 then 5 then 9 then 5... so i have code 67 continuous, then a 14 and 95 memory.
before when i did this test before i didn't get the 14, and this was all before the starting issue arose. so it leads me to believe the 14 and the starting issue are connected, although the black negative that branches from the main wiring harness on the passenger side had a poor connection that i fixed today, and this may have triggered the code 14. it mentioned something about causing the vehicle to stall, which it did, but i managed to get it fixed so its all good now.
also, after a long attempt at a start, the truck smells like gas, and sometimes i get some white smoke. i thought maybe a very small crack in the head, or something, but my dad says no it cant be.
so if anyone can help shed a little light it would be very nice. cause i either get this fixed or next month im gettin a brand new gmc, hard as it is. (me bein a ford guy and all, but the loyalty aint worth 15 grand)

 

[IMenriched]

yepp those pesky grounds can mess with a lot. and sounds like you got more than 1 gremlin in there,

Is this a auto tranny or manual?....(code 67),either way maybe check the neutral safety switch & wires associated with it.

as for the code 95...again a ground for the fuel pump...maybe the redoing the ground that you did will help on this....other wise its down to tracing wires and pulling apart wiring harness and making sure that no wire are frayed somewhere.

different folks having similar run-ability issues range from bad pin/spade connection to bad wires all over the engine bay and around the fuel pump....the most common seem to be related to the fuel pump relay....didn't see that listed above...so have you checked the fuel pump relay and wires and connections that around it?

it is a bit spendy but to save frustration, time & heart ache some suggest new wiring harness

 

[jaymegriffiths]

ya but where can i get a NEW wiring harness? also, where are the fuel pump relay and nuetral safety switch? my transmission is a m50dr1 out of a 1989 ranger, and the idle issue started when the transmission was replaced. fastpakr suggested it was the nuetral safety switch, but i dont know how to test it or replaced it, let alone know what/where it is and where to start for diagnosing it. the starting issue has me clueless. BUT these are both major problems, and i cant afford to be stuck at home with no way to get so work... SOO
i can take some pics of the tranny, and wires around it. And for some reason my e brake light doesn't come on all the time, but i didn't think it relevant.

 

[IMenriched]

ya but where can i get a NEW wiring harness? also, where are the fuel pump relay and nuetral safety switch? my transmission is a m50dr1 out of a 1989 ranger, and the idle issue started when the transmission was replaced. fastpakr suggested it was the nuetral safety switch, but i dont know how to test it or replaced it, let alone know what/where it is and where to start for diagnosing it. the starting issue has me clueless. BUT these are both major problems, and i cant afford to be stuck at home with no way to get so work... SOO
i can take some pics of the tranny, and wires around it. And for some reason my e brake light doesn't come on all the time, but i didn't think it relevant.

here's a diagram from the tech library....as for where this safety neutral switch is actually located.....your's being manual and all....suspect areas that it would be on the clutch pedal or tied to the linkage for shifting in some way, or under/on the top shift plate, where the stick enters the tranny.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

As for the fuel pump relay...they are usually located on the passenger side fender, on the inside, behind the air filter box, or between the air filter box and the fire wall. this link is from the lights section but the same general idea is for the fuel pump http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html these things look about the size of a tall ice cube...there should be a least 2 there, 1 for the engine computer and 1 for the fuel pumps. If these are still original ones (doubting it), will has a brown bottom and one will have a green bottom....thinking that the green one is for fuel pumps

sure somebody ...somewhere has a snap shot of components in question.



pictures are worth a thousand words

 

[jaymegriffiths]

here's a diagram from the tech library....as for where this safety neutral switch is actually located.....your's being manual and all....suspect areas that it would be on the clutch pedal or tied to the linkage for shifting in some way, or under/on the top shift plate, where the stick enters the tranny.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

As for the fuel pump relay...they are usually located on the passenger side fender, on the inside, behind the air filter box, or between the air filter box and the fire wall. this link is from the lights section but the same general idea is for the fuel pump http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html these things look about the size of a tall ice cube...there should be a least 2 there, 1 for the engine computer and 1 for the fuel pumps. If these are still original ones (doubting it), will has a brown bottom and one will have a green bottom....thinking that the green one is for fuel pumps

sure somebody ...somewhere has a snap shot of components in question.



pictures are worth a thousand words

alright thanks, ill take a look around and check it all out

 

[Nez]

so my trucks idled like a POS for quite some time now, with periods of functionality. the problem is shown here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDH1Qfn6Vj4
so the problem is that it hunts for a medium but just goes up and down, almost stalling, until it jumps back up and high idles again. i've changed: tfi, plugs, cap+rotor, air idle control, map sensor, and checked some electrical connections. also, recently, its begun having difficulty starting. it cranks over for nearly 60 seconds sometimes, which is rediculous. the starting issue was not an issue when this video takes place, which leads me to believe its not necessarily, but possibly related to the erratic idle.
so today i did a self eec test, and what i got was this:
6blinks.short pause, 7 blinks, short (but slightly longer to signify seperation of numbers) pause, 6 blinks, then 7 blinks, ie code 67, then a longer pause, then 1 blink, pause then 1 blink, pause, then 1 blink, pause then 4 blinks, pause then 1 then 4, then 9 then 5 then 9 then 5... so i have code 67 continuous, then a 14 and 95 memory.
before when i did this test before i didn't get the 14, and this was all before the starting issue arose. so it leads me to believe the 14 and the starting issue are connected, although the black negative that branches from the main wiring harness on the passenger side had a poor connection that i fixed today, and this may have triggered the code 14. it mentioned something about causing the vehicle to stall, which it did, but i managed to get it fixed so its all good now.
also, after a long attempt at a start, the truck smells like gas, and sometimes i get some white smoke. i thought maybe a very small crack in the head, or something, but my dad says no it cant be.
so if anyone can help shed a little light it would be very nice. cause i either get this fixed or next month im gettin a brand new gmc, hard as it is. (me bein a ford guy and all, but the loyalty aint worth 15 grand)

From what you have said, I would not be at all suprised if you were to find "Raw Gas" in the vacume lines due to a bad "Fuel Pressure Valve". When these valves go bad they allow gas to go beyond the fuel rail and into the vacume system which causes gas to enter the top of the plenum, thus flooding it at idle, it should run well at high throttle though. However, at idle it floods and will burn white out he exaust which in turn can damage the c-converter. The raw gas inside the power break boost will as you know, damage it as well. Hope this helps! Nez

 

[jaymegriffiths]

From what you have said, I would not be at all suprised if you were to find "Raw Gas" in the vacume lines due to a bad "Fuel Pressure Valve". When these valves go bad they allow gas to go beyond the fuel rail and into the vacume system which causes gas to enter the top of the plenum, thus flooding it at idle, it should run well at high throttle though. However, at idle it floods and will burn white out he exaust which in turn can damage the c-converter. The raw gas inside the power break boost will as you know, damage it as well. Hope this helps! Nez

ill check it tomorrow if i get time. the only thing is, the idle had problems even before the starting issue, and the truck randomly runs good/bad. It has no symptoms to tell its comin on/ending.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

**** it im puttin a 302 in or trashing it

 

[IMenriched]

sorry... forgot to mention that new wiring harness can be had thru painless wiring
http://www.painlesswiring.com/

 

[jaymegriffiths]

sorry... forgot to mention that new wiring harness can be had thru painless wiring
http://www.painlesswiring.com/

really? cause i was on their website and i couldn't find jack! maybe there is hope for the very strong 2.9. i've owned 3 2.9 fords and this one has triple the power of my 4x4. serious i was on a steep grade and this sucker pulls up it in 3rd no prob with 3.45 gears. my 4x4 cant hold 2nd. and i think it has 3.73's

edit* checked the site and didn't find anything for rangers, and the kits were more expensive then my trucks worth at the moment

 

[IMenriched]

really? cause i was on their website and i couldn't find jack! maybe there is hope for the very strong 2.9. i've owned 3 2.9 fords and this one has triple the power of my 4x4. serious i was on a steep grade and this sucker pulls up it in 3rd no prob with 3.45 gears. my 4x4 cant hold 2nd. and i think it has 3.73's

edit* checked the site and didn't find anything for rangers, and the kits were more expensive then my trucks worth at the moment

yes the cost of such things like this is often more than that of the truck/vehicle.....I didn't investigate the site for ranger applications....maybe it was on another form that I read that they did...or maybe , they did at one time. sorry for the false hope

sure that there is some outfit some where that could do it...as you already discovered....just a matter of $$$

 

[jaymegriffiths]

maybe. but i think im gonna hunt my way through it. IM SURE it isn't the harness. it's a sensor somewhere. my truck has been starting WAY better recently, not sure why...

 

[IMenriched]

maybe. but i think im gonna hunt my way through it. IM SURE it isn't the harness. it's a sensor somewhere. my truck has been starting WAY better recently, not sure why...

your weather been dry or wet??? as of late

 

[jaymegriffiths]

your weather been dry or wet??? as of late

colder. wet today, but its been starting better since it got cold. like, crazy better. i clearly zone out to much cause i cant tell you when it started gettin better. its back to normal now. like i have crazy bad compression or something. i did a compression test on my driver side bank and it read 150 whatever measurement, which i was told is good.

 

[IMenriched]

colder. wet today, but its been starting better since it got cold. like, crazy better. i clearly zone out to much cause i cant tell you when it started gettin better. its back to normal now. like i have crazy bad compression or something. i did a compression test on my driver side bank and it read 150 whatever measurement, which i was told is good.

have you done a compression check on the other bank?? yes the side you tested seems very good...but the other side could show another story.

if cooler temps and dry air= better starting and overall runnability

and now damper air but cooler=harder starting and poorer runability

well that hints of a corrosion issue with some wiring ...somewhere

might be a temp sensor out of whack....but you didn't trip that code.

might be worth the time to rerun getting the codes

a vacuum line leak somewhere...sorry not much real help