2.3L ('02-'11) Swapping Duratec into 61 Rambler

[RonD]

Check over at the Forscan forum: https://forscan.org/forum/

Forscan is a Ford software that can talk with Ford computers and modules via the OBD2 port
Like an OBD2 reader on steroids

You may be able to delete the 2006 computers need for handshake and PATS
Check with local Speed Shops or Dyno Tune places, they should know of Local Programmers that should be able to do that as well

Just FYI, all 2005 Rangers didn't have PATS, Ford had a dispute with company that makes that software
So if you can figure out the handshake then you can get a 2005 2.3l computer, it won't wait for the "OK to Start" from PATS module, and sell the 2006 computer

 

[bobbywalter]

2004 and earlier i think you can turn it off with the hpt...but my system only partially disables it and causes other issues if you use b/e to find the rest of it....and i am not up at all on the binary.... hence send it in to a tuner or buy a non pats pcm.

if you can find a vin that is non pats you can order a new pcm that way as well. picking up a spare ecm and sending them in so you have a spare usually saves time and money as well.


my forscan allows for reset and key programming but no delete that i have seen...

Ford PATS Delete Service 2005 - 2010

Service for deleting PATS from 2005 - 2010 Ford Engine Computer. THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE DIESELS. Diesels are at a different price and in some cases might not be able to be done currently. Some units depending on the style may incur an additional fee for programming. This fee will not exceed...

www.garretttuning.com

 

[RonD]

The cheapest option for speedometer cable hook up would be to get the tail shaft housing from a 1995-1997 4R44E or 4R55E automatic, doesn't matter what engine it has
Your 2006 5R44E tail shaft MIGHT STILL HAVE the speedometer drive gear, just no way to access it, the speedo drive gear was machined on to the tail shaft, not sure if Ford ever stopped making them that way
So pull off the tail shaft housing and have a look
If its there you can put on the older tail shaft housing that has the hole to put in the speedo Driven gear

There are a few options to convert electrical pulses(OSS sensor signals) to mechanical drive speedo cable
2001-2011 Rangers have the computer converting the OSS sensors signal, 32,000ppm, to the Ford Standard 8,000ppm(pulses per mile)

So the computer has a "speedo" OUT pin, which went to cluster and Cruise module, pin 68, grey/black wire
You can use that with an electric motor to drive a speedometer cable, its not cheap

There are also GPS to mechanical drives, they work but not vary accurate when driving on curving roads or up and down hills, GPS assumes flat and straight roads, lol

Other option is to turn the mechanical speedo into an electric model, Ford model that uses the 8,000ppm signal


2006 2.3l still has a TEMP SENDER, it was behind the head on a metal coolant hose, that should work for the 1961 dash temp gauge
Red/white wire to cluster, black/white wire is ground
Not familiar with Rambler tech and what OHMs the temp gauge expects, but worst case is you would swap current one with Rambler model


Rambler just had an Oil Light, 2.3l just has an oil pressure switch, so that should work out, lol
Ranger oil pressure switch is normally OPEN, you will want to change that switch to a normally CLOSED oil pressure switch to use it with a light bulb
OIL Light bulb gets 12volts with key on, and its GROUNDED by the normally CLOSED oil switch, OIL light bulb is on
When you start the engine oil pressure pushes OPEN the switch, light bulb off

Rambler has a GEN(generator) light and that should work out as well with simple rewire
2006 2.3l alternator will have a yellow/white wire and a light green/red wire on a 2 wire plug in
The green/red wire was connected to the Battery Light in the 2006 cluster
The Battery light in the cluster got 12volts with key on
That 12v runs thru the bulb and to the alternator on the green/red wire, since the alternator is not working its in essence "a ground", so Battery Light is ON
When engine is running and alternator is working then Battery light has 12volts on BOTH wires so its OFF, actually 14volts with engine running but same thing, lol
Battery light on again means alternator is a ground again, so not charging the battery

Fuel gauge will work as is, assuming its working, lol

 

[Josh B]

Are you saying a 61 Rambler had a security system??
My mom had a 64 that didn't even have a radio!
Cool little car, awesome mileage, but that was about it

 

[Frank S]

bobbywalter -- thanks, I'll have to contact MARS. I've been thinking.. just how much of the Ranger cluster needs to be there for the hand shaking to occur? I have no problem destroying the original gauge cluster... cutting or otherwise removing the actual gauges and extra board. I haven't pulled it to see if this is feasible, but if I can par it down to a small enough size to just hide under the dash that would solve the issue.

Josh B -- Not the Rambler, the 2006 Ranger has a security system that has to be got around.

RonD -- thanks for all that info! AMC (Rambler) used the same type gauges and ohm ranges as Ford did for the earlier cars (60s-70s). Old Stewart Warner standard of 73 ohms empty/low, 9 ohms full/high. The specs may vary slightly (+/- 2-3 ohms on each end), but they are the same range. Currently the car has a 15 gallon fuel cell (minus the foam) that the previous owner installed. What he did right was mount it under the trunk floor with straps like the original tank. What he did wrong was just cut a 8" circle in the middle of the floor to access the top cap and use that as the filler. No fuel level sender. So I'm going to put a plate over the floor hole and install a fuel level sender and a neck to attach a hose to the original fill location. The big hole in top will allow me to mount a screw on neck (flanged) to the side of the plastic tank with a gasket. I'll either do that or get another tank.

Pic of Rambler gauge cluster. The face that shows is roughly 3" tall by 12" wide.

 

[Frank S]

Thanks for all the info guys, not just the ones I mentioned in my last post!! I'll be referring to this thread a lot.

I sent Garret an e-mail asking about removing PATS and the handshaking to the cluster. Will send MARS one later.
If I need to use an older computer how hard would that be? I suspect I might need to get an older wiring harness as well.

I found this on another site, which indicates I may not have the handshaking...

"Depending on the year of the PCM, it will have PATS (security key). For the 2.3 Ranger, this system was in place from ‘01-‘06.

The easiest way to bypass this is to program a key to the module, then cut off the black plastic part of they key with the chip in it, and tape it to the transceiver (the ring that reads the key). Then tape the whole thing into the harness. It technically still has the security key, but the chip is always able to be read.

From ‘07-‘11, there is an additional 2 module “handshake” that occurs, so you’d need the cluster from the donor truck as well. Probably avoid this.

You could also get a PCM from a pre-PATS vehicle, however the circuitry probably won’t be compatible with the newer engine. Would have to swap to the matching old harness or make your own."
(from https://www.reddit.com/r/Ford/comments/bbp1vk )

 

[bobbywalter]

what you want is for them to stand alone your system. then all you need to do is power it up and you wont need any modules at all outside of the pcm.

one of the explorer and ranger systems is in fact difficult to do....and considered impossible for some..i just do not know the details about that. that is a case where you use a stand alone fleet pcm. and usually its when you are simply trying to keep the system intact...

i initially had a setup an early inside edition of what i suspect is now forscan, that actually accessed all of this stuff, ALL OF IT. and you can screw yourself just copying a file...worse it leaves a signature. and things were getting out of hand for some time there with the government during that period and "tuning" this was long before the diesel stuff. more like odometer tampering. the IDS and task force stuff the dealerships locksmiths use is basically the same thing. my work is too busy to learn this level of programming and its just worth it to pay or use an aftermarket system ... which for many you pay a fee or credits every time anyway with like hp tuners and its hard to use as well.....or any of the aftermarket stuff like fast or microsquirt or holley...ect.

in your case...you should be fine.

 

[Frank S]

I found this: "Until 07, Ranger PATS is PCM-only, meaning there is no handshake. If the PCM reads a valid key, it allows it to start. That’s it." If that's the case I should be fine. I'm actually going to look into using the Ford steering column and rack and pinion on my Rambler. I have an early 90s Thunderbird R&P on my 63 Classic (AMC/Jeep 4.0L, AW4 auto trans, Jag IRS). I first made steering arms but they proved to not be quite strong enough. Ran them for 10 years before I cracked one though. Then I found out that AMC Pacer (only AMC car to use R&P) would work. Steering arms on an AMC bolt on, not made into the spindle like others in the 60s and later. I know I''ll have to make steering arms again for the little Rambler American. Even the Pacer arms aren't quite as short as the arms I made (about 1/4" longer), so the turning radius isn't quite as tight, but it's good enough. Standard steering box arms, at least on older car, are a good bit longer than R&P arms for more mechanical leverage to make manual steering easier.

 

[Frank S]

Oh, I did get the Ranger running! Found the fuel pump cut-off switch, but haven't bypassed or reset it yet (it's on crushed in passenger side, can't get that door open). What I did was pull the air intake tube and squirt some gas in from a pump bottle. Only ran it about 30 seconds that way, but that was enough to know I have a good engine. When I get time I'll bypass or reset the fuel pump cut off and check the transmission too.

Looks like I'm going to have to adapt the Ranger rear axle. Rambler used a 3.78 and a 4.10 axle with manual overdrives, but I can't find either within a 4-5 hour drive one-way. So far closest is a guy in Pennsylvania (9-10 hours one way). The Ranger comes with a 4.10 axle, but I figured I could get by with 3.78 since it's a bit lighter car and not intended to haul a 1/2 ton load. If necessary I can narrow the ranger axle by using two short side axles, narrow long side tube to fit. The wheels on the Ranger are deep though, so I may not need to narrow it at all. Still have some measuring to do...

Everyone here has been a lot of help! Thanks for that!