Toyo tires. Manual HUBS.

[sgtsandman]

If you reduce pressure in the tires, you're reducing the clearance, right? The reverse of what I want, but I don't know how much it changes. And it depends where you are going. To date my issue isn't traction, it's clearance. And I'm running 235 Coopers that somebody put on (not oem). I could put 265 Coopers and might be fine for now, it's just not as aggressive as [I think] I'd like, I'm trying to find the balance between on-road and off-road performance but I think a somewhat aggressive tread for instance K02, K03 type tread, would be fine on the highway, just a bit noisier, but not horrible.

The only part of the tire that changes with dropping air pressure is the contact patch of the tire. It mostly gets longer, though the side walls of the tire will bulge some around the contact patch as well. Clearances in the wheel well and around the suspension will not change.

 

[James Morse]

And reducing the pressure, increases the contact patch, which does what for me? I know that sounds like an idiot question.

I was talking about ground clearance, i.e., just seemed to me reduced pressure lowers the truck, but I'm probably fos, or, it's insignificant.
You make the point that tire only bulges around the contact point not elsewhere I get that. So maybe that's why it doesn't really change ground clearance.

It sounds like you do this and maybe also disconnect front sway bar (temporarily) for a bit more suspension travel there. Things you can do that are no-cost and no-mod.

 

[sgtsandman]

And reducing the pressure, increases the contact patch, which does what for me? I know that sounds like an idiot question.

I was talking about ground clearance, i.e., just seemed to me reduced pressure lowers the truck, but I'm probably fos, or, it's insignificant.
You make the point that tire only bulges around the contact point not elsewhere I get that. So maybe that's why it doesn't really change ground clearance.

It sounds like you do this and maybe also disconnect front sway bar (temporarily) for a bit more suspension travel there. Things you can do that are no-cost and no-mod.

It does lower the vehicle in question some. The benefit is increased traction due to the larger contact patch and the tire will conform to the terrain, which increases traction and a greatly reduced chance of damage to the tire.

On sand and mud, the chances of getting stuck are minimized and the tires will mold over rocks, roots, and ledges on the trail, which also minimizes getting stuck.

It won’t do anything for a sharp rock to the side wall or a tire getting speared by a stick or small stump stuck in the ground but airing down greatly reduces the chances of other hazards damaging the tire.

I have a percentage chart saved on my computer somewhere that will give you the recommended pressures (based on percentage) that give you a starting point to work with based on the terrain. I’ll look it up and post it for you.

EDIT:

HOW LOW CAN YOU GO?​

Just how much do you air down? Obviously, it depends on conditions, but also on the normal street pressure you run, which might be 35 psi in a Tacoma, or 65 in a 9,000-pound Sports mobile on big E-rated tires.

As a (very) rough guide, dropping pressure about 25 percent will significantly increase traction and comfort on rough dirt roads, washboards, and moderate trails.

Dropping 30 to 35 percent elongates the tire’s footprint enough to enhance grip on slick rock, and allows it to deform around and cling to big rocks.

Heading down to 50 percent, even a bit less, will nearly double the length of the contact patch to float over very soft sand.

Make sure you air back up to normal tire pressure as soon as you get back on hard pavement.

 

[00t444e]

Yeah beadlocks are totally not for me. Nice to know the story behind them though.

Those 2 tires are "equivalent" but not totally equivalent. 31" are a bit wider. That's why guys that run 31" have said, there can be inside rubbing at full steering cut. 265's I'd be totally safe because I doubt very much Ford would oem a tire that would rub. Also, and you tell me if I'm wrong, but narrower tires have more traction because more force psi tread. Relatively insignificant, and obviously one wouldn't say, then I should go 195's because they are way narrow. Which I couldn't anyway because of weight capacity of the smaller tires, I believe, but just saying, is my theory behind that wrong.

To me, wider tires (to a point) look better, so there's that, and as I've said much more selection in 31". I see eventually 33" or maybe even 35" but that is not in the immediate future because it opens up several cans of worms and I need more time on the trails with just oem or close to oem size to find out, maybe that's (265 or 31") fine for me.

If you reduce pressure in the tires, you're reducing the clearance, right? The reverse of what I want, but I don't know how much it changes. And it depends where you are going. To date my issue isn't traction, it's clearance. And I'm running 235 Coopers that somebody put on (not oem). I could put 265 Coopers and might be fine for now, it's just not as aggressive as [I think] I'd like, I'm trying to find the balance between on-road and off-road performance but I think a somewhat aggressive tread for instance K02, K03 type tread, would be fine on the highway, just a bit noisier, but not horrible.

265 is the width in MM which comes out to 10.43 inches, so .07 inches narrower than a 31/10.50/15, something you will never notice, same heght as a 31x10.50 too since most only mesure 30.5" tall.

 

[James Morse]

@sgtsandman Very cool. So for me, what I often run into, and I keep talking about it (limited experience) is creeks, at least the ones I'm in so far, have flat rocks on the bottom, maybe mossy/algae, so 30-35% seems about right for my use. Hard to say since I actually haven't slipped anywhere but I kind of just coast/feather throttle across keeping constant speed, that probably helps, just kind of instinctive from growing up in snow. Yes have to remember to air up after, I always carry inflator in the toolbox, yes compressor on-board w/ tank is nice, but inflator works. Thanks.

 

[James Morse]

@00t444e I hear you, but.... we can't really make blanket statements because there are variations in tires of the same size spec. I'm in the process of creating a cheat sheet with all the tires I'd reasonably look at, using the specs from Tire Rack (and making the assumption they are correct). Unfortunately, when I do the cut/paste, the matrix has to be transposed to make it into a database-type sheet where you can more easily compare so first I have to gather the data then put it into usable form, not hard, just time. I think the issue is, some 31" tires will have larger section widths and larger tread widths than others, and those are the ones that probably will rub the inside of the fenders to some extent if you cut the steering all the way over.

As to your comment about 31" tires actually measure 30.5", well, which tire, and how are you measuring it? I believe, that the specs are measured with the tire inflated but not on a truck. Whatever the spec is, it will measure smaller diameter if you measure it from the ground, on the truck, because it's slightly compressed. For instance when I measured my current 29" tires, they were no where close to that. Partly because of wear, let's say the tread is quite worn, and you've lost 9/32, that's 18/32 or over a half inch gone in its diamter, plus the compression, which would vary (a bit) by the truck's weight so if you measure the tire on the truck for worn tires they probably will be quite far from the spec new and off the truck. Plus the inflation pressure would affect that too.

All of which doesn't amount to a hill of beans for practical purposes, all I'm saying is, I was surprised when I measured my tires and found them nowhere near the spec size. Also, the compression is at the bottom, so it doesn't make the tire smaller at the top which is the area of concern for rubbing/clearance. I'll probably get called on overthinking it, but I don't think it is, when we make statements/decisions we need to look at the facts, some are not important, some are. We know the XLT was already "lifted" 2" oem (ok, I know it's not a lift per se) for the oem size 265's. So Ford made them fit, correctly (I strongly suspect on a stock non-4x4 they would rub). Just scanning my data quickly, yes, some 31" will be darn near the same as 265's, probably zero issues, but some, especially M/T, will have fairly wider tread and so they can rub and we know people run them (31" AT's or MT's) and say they can rub. Not sure if sidewall tread has anything to do with that, probably not, and we do want that of course and expect it on an AT or MT.

Where it's made is somewhat important, I prefer US made. Also whether they are popular or not can be important because in theory popular tires will be newer stock because of turnover and not popular can be old (degrading over time).

More later when I can get to it, chasing priority issues with non-Ranger vehicle, it's sucking time.

 

[00t444e]

You are making this way more complicated than it is, 31x10.50x15 tires fit fine on a 4x4 Ranger, some even came factory with that size. For mesurments I am using what is listed under the specs for each tire.

 

[James Morse]

Yes they do now, not then. I'm looking at the paper brochure (same as here online) for 1997 and they are all metric sizes.
I agree it's not that complicated; part of what I'm doing is I have through previous discussions narrowed down my choice of tires to a somewhat more than a handful so as I go through the final selection process it's just nice to see any differences. I guess if you say, I want 265 or 31", and I want AT or possibly mild MT, and I want made in US, and I don't care about snow, and I don't want excessive noise (but maybe would live with it / like it), and I want to be able to drive it on the highway and them perform ok to good, and I want a popular tire with turnover so I don't get really old tires, that kind of points you to only a couple choices. I think.
But it's not like you're cutting apart the truck, if I don't like them I'll live with them a while and get something else later. Plus if I ever lifter the truck then I'd be choosing different anyway so I'm ok to just choose something that can't be horribly wrong and be over it. Still have to scope out who is going to put in beads. And I don't understand how they work but apparently they do, and work well.
My Coopers aren't shot yet, I just been asking and planning because it will be a need soon, plus I want to get the truck back to oem size it'll be a little higher and look better and grip better.

 

[2011Supercab]

We know the XLT was already "lifted" 2" oem (ok, I know it's not a lift per se) for the oem size 265's. So Ford made them fit, correctly (I strongly suspect on a stock non-4x4 they would rub).

A XLT 4x4 is the same height as a XL 4x4, they both have they same lift, no matter what size tires it came with from the factory, only difference would be due to the height of the tire.
You are making this a lot tougher than it needs to be.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Just throw some 31x10.50-15 Mastercraft Courser CXTs and call it a day. I can’t say for sure it won’t rub on a 3rd Gen, but I know they don’t rub on a 4th Gen and the only major difference is the front axle.

The 2” lift block that Ford used in the rear on the 4x4s is really a super minor thing. My first Ranger was a 2000 extended cab 2wd and I ended up beefing up the rear leaf springs which made it sit the same as if it had the 2” lift blocks if not slightly higher. It’s really a minor thing because my green Ranger (2000 extended cab 4x4) had leaf springs that were wore out because it sat lower in the back than my 2wd and I ran 31’s on it with no issues, the exact ones I recommended at the top.

For tire pressure, I think I settled at like 25 psi for them. I wanted to keep the tread as flat as possible (I burn the centers out on my F-150 because I run them at 40-45 psi because that truck gets used to haul and tow). I didn’t want to go super light (my choptop is 12-15 psi), but I wanted to wear the tires as flat as possible. 25 psi was my compromise. 35 psi felt hard on the stock suspension and was only wearing the middle of the tread. I don’t typically work my Ranger like I do my F-150. It’s all about what your intentions are and what compromises you’re willing to make.

I may end up going to something different with more of a street tread on my green Ranger at some point since it’s going to be 5.0/AWD/lowered street toy mostly. I have other 4x4s so it doesn’t bother me to do that.

Yes, lowering tire pressure will reduce height from the ground to the lowest part of the vehicle, but we are talking typically less than a half inch. If a half inch is that critical, you need to run a taller tire. It’s much better to have the bigger contact patch and better tire wear than a very minor change in clearance. Lower pressure also helps absorb bumps. If you looked at my choptop, you would have no idea there’s only 12 psi in the tires. They look visibly the same as they did at 35 psi. There’s a night and day difference to performance. The ride is a lot smoother and it’s a lot harder to break them free at 12 psi. Hard braking tries to throw you through the windshield instead of into a slide. Despite lowered contact pressure with the ground, it grips the ground better. Mind, this is a 35x12.50-15, so considerably more tire than the 31’s and with the top and doors off, a rather light vehicle.

Think you really kinda spend a little too much getting wrapped up in details and worrying about stuff that isn’t a huge issue.

 

[00t444e]

Yes they do now, not then. I'm looking at the paper brochure (same as here online) for 1997 and they are all metric sizes.
I agree it's not that complicated; part of what I'm doing is I have through previous discussions narrowed down my choice of tires to a somewhat more than a handful so as I go through the final selection process it's just nice to see any differences. I guess if you say, I want 265 or 31", and I want AT or possibly mild MT, and I want made in US, and I don't care about snow, and I don't want excessive noise (but maybe would live with it / like it), and I want to be able to drive it on the highway and them perform ok to good, and I want a popular tire with turnover so I don't get really old tires, that kind of points you to only a couple choices. I think.
But it's not like you're cutting apart the truck, if I don't like them I'll live with them a while and get something else later. Plus if I ever lifter the truck then I'd be choosing different anyway so I'm ok to just choose something that can't be horribly wrong and be over it. Still have to scope out who is going to put in beads. And I don't understand how they work but apparently they do, and work well.
My Coopers aren't shot yet, I just been asking and planning because it will be a need soon, plus I want to get the truck back to oem size it'll be a little higher and look better and grip better.

Get 31x10.50x15 Mastercraft Courser MXTs, I ran them on my Jeep and Dakota for years and will be putting a set on the Ranger, they are great USA made tires.

 

[James Morse]

@lil_Blue_Ford yes and as to the blocks, I suppose in the best world I'd get rid of them and not change the height right now. Ultimately, I *think* I want to put 33" or maybe 35" and use different springs in the rear (no blocks) but that is a completely different thing with its own set of issues that has been hashed over pretty well.

Right now, I just need to find manual hubs ("Stage 1" lol) if you know where I can get the Warns probably I'd get them else Milemaker, don't need super-strong, you'd want hub breaking before something else.

Mastercrafts look nice tread and way cheaper and nothing like the voice of experience.

I think I'll try a bit of decompression in the tires for the street (and more for offroad). Any street downside, like, they wear more? Have to try it and see if I notice a difference in feel.

 

[ericbphoto]

James. I don't know how your finances are at the moment. But somebody here on the forum posted a slightly used Skyjacker lift kit. Unfortunately doesn't include the leaf springs. But you can order those seaparately.

 

[James Morse]

Thanks, looks decent, but I think I'm going to just first do tires (265's or 31"), and change the hubs to manual.
Not sure which ones to get I wouldn't mind getting the Warn but I can't seem to find them.
Having one not quite so strong might not be a disadvantage because you want that breaking before something else.
Anyway I'm ready to pull the trigger on the hubs.

 

[sgtsandman]

The Dana 35 is 27 spline.