Trouble with clutch safety switch bypass

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Recently my 2002 ranger has been having trouble starting It would make no noises when I turned the key to start. I would release the clutch and engage it and try again and sometimes it would work.
Then one time I absolutely couldn't start it until I banged on the starter with a rock. It then started. So I assumed that the starter had just gone bad really fast. I put the new starter in and it still won't start. Finally I decided to take the clutch safety switch off and see if there was any problems I could see because it was making the same one click noise when the clutch was down as when it was up. When I got it apart the sliders on the clutch safety switch looked loose and very corroded. I stuck a wire in the Pink and the Pink/White holes and it started up when I turned the key. All good I thought, so I clipped the Pink and the Pink/White wires and crimped them together. Now it absolutely won't start. I'm kind of clueless as to what my next step is because I feel like I've figured out what the problem is twice: banging on the starter worked and putting the wired together worked. Now with the wires spliced and new starter, nothing is working. I've swapped all the relays: they work.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Check fuse 24 in cab fuse box, 7.5amp, you may have blown it when cutting and splicing wires

I assume no Flashing THEFT light on the dash with key on?
That's a PATS issue and no crank/no start

When key is turned to START the ignition switch sends 12volts to fuse 24, this is the only time fuse 24 has 12volts
That 12v goes to clutch switch
If clutch switch is closed then that 12v goes thru it and out thru the firewall to the Starter Relay in the engine bay fuse box
And relay closes(if grounded by PATS), so it will make a "click" noise
When relay closes 12volts is sent from engine bay fuse 11 to the starter motor
Starter motors relay/solenoid closes and pushes starter gear out and powers starter motor via the larger positive battery cable

Key in START------fuse 24--------clutch switch--------//----starter relay

Splicing the white/pink and pink wires together at the clutch switch should bypass it and not cause any issues
The clutch switch does need to be reinstalled for the other wires to work
For cruise and REV limiter

Tapping on the starter and having it start to work would be unrelated to the wiring
So could have be a coincidence or truly a failing starter motor

New starter motors and alternators seem to be a roll of the dice these days, lol

You can get 2002 Ranger owners manual here for fuse box layouts: https://www.therangerstation.com/manuals/

 

[Sidetracker]

Thank you, I'll try these things

 

[Sidetracker]

Fuse #24 inside and #11 outside are both fine. There is actually a theft light on the dash. It's not flashing but it is on. I just thought that it was normal (lots of lights turn on and then off after it is started) how do I fix that? One place online said turn the key to ON and then OFF 8 times. Another place just said to use the key fob to unlock it. I haven't tried either... I'm not home right now.

 

[RonD]

When key is out and doors are closed the THEFT light should flash every 2 to 3 seconds warning thieves the vehicle has anti-theft

With key on, THEFT light should come on and then go OFF if the key in the ignition is authorized to start the engine
If THEFT light starts to flash rapidly after key on then anti-theft is activated and no crank/no start

Factory THEFT light on steady is a new one for me
Look in the Owners manual for location of THEFT light to make sure we are talking about the same light

Do you have an added Alarm system?
The key on and off thing is just for reprogramming Fobs, wireless entry, and if you do that, it WILL erase ALL the fobs previously programmed so you will need to add back the ones you have
And nothing to do with PATS anti-theft or the dash THEFT light

PATS is not an Alarm, just disables computer and starter

Wireless entry/Fobs can be linked to an ADDED Alarm system, this should flash the lights and honk the horn if triggered by a break in
AND can be made to disable starter

There is no way we can tell if you have an Alarm system added

 

[Sidetracker]

I don't know if there is an added alarm system. I'm not sure. I bought the truck recently but the guy had the title. He seemed very legit. I'm just going off memory, I'll let you know what exactly goes on with the THEFT light and remote unlock etc.

 

[Sidetracker]

You were right, the theft light comes on like a lot of lights and then turns off... neither fuse is blown but I stuck my multimeter in either side of #24 inside after removing the 7.5 fuse I got 0 volts even when the key was in START. Should I have measured 12v? Maybe something is wrong with the ignition?

 

[RonD]

Yes, one terminal in the fuse 24 slot should show 12v with the ignition switch and key turned to START

What does the key cylinder feel like when you turn it, is it stiff or loose or ???

 

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It turns just fine, perfectly normal feeling... and (as said above) it has started before... also, the guy I bought it from said New starter, new clutch, and new ignition switch in the add. He didn't save the receipts and (because hitting it worked once...) I think the starter was bad... so I don't know how much stock to put into his word.
On the other hand, He did say, "New Ignition switch" I know what bad one's feel like, this one feels fine. Maybe he wired in the new on poorly?

 

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12v should be showing if I stuck the two tips of my multimeter in the two sides of the fuse spot? Or do I need to ground one end?

 

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I tried again. Maybe I didn't have a good connection the first time. I was getting 4.8 volts at the fuse even when the key was in ON position. The battery has 12v it had more earlier, it is fine just getting low from not running... 4.8b is also how much I got at the clutch (Pink and Pink/white) to ground. Is this a normal voltage because it's a control or does this mean that a wire is pretty loose...

 

[RonD]

You need to ground volt meter to test for 12v at fuse 24
(if you knew the bypass and PATS were working perfectly then yes, one terminal in fuse 24 slot should be grounded via the starter relay........)

Fuse 26 has 12v full time, so you can use that one to test your Ground point


Very odd to change ignition switch on a newer Ranger, 2000+ just never a common issue
And some people call the key cylinder the ignition switch as well

 

[Sidetracker]

I'm an electrician, low voltage for us 50v or something means that it's like a loose or lost neutral. Should I recheck my grounds? Where? Main terminal?

 

[RonD]

Yes, with key on you can get 3v-6v via the PATS ground of the starter relay, there is no AMPS just volts, it would drop to 0volts with any kind of load

i.e. a 12v test light across the 2 terminals wouldn't even glow

 

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So you are saying that the PATS system is preventing the circuit from grounding? What does PATS stand for? Is that part of the anti theft system? How do i fix this?