turbo/propane/2.8-2.9?

[Todd]

Ok so I wanted to go with boost and was thinking about going from the 2.9 to the turbo 2.3 in my wheelin rig. After finding out all the detail on that I think I might go a different way.

Draw through propane.

Now the questions.

What distributor can I use to get mechanical or vacuum advance on the 2.9? Would pull the injectors TIG weld the holes shut and run with no electrical controls.

Also I have a complet turbo setup from a 2.3. Do you think this will be to small for the 2.9 or 2.8 if the goal is the have a fast spooling turbo with the respective v6 maxing at 5000 RPM?

Thoughts and suggestions? Have done some searching and propane and forced induction seem like they are damn well paired with each other.

 

[scotts90ranger]

just leave it dual fuel, open the injector power wires when you switch your lockoff on and fuel pump off, put a switch or relay or something on the O2 sensor wire or something else used for closed loop and force it into open loop, that'll leave the spark control working, the check engine light will most likely be on since it won't be in control of the fueling...

but the 2.8's are more stout, less likely to crack the heads, could probably handle more, the turbo from a 2.3 would work fine, like you said quicker spool up

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I can't help you but maybe one of the guys on this forum;
http://fuelsforum.rasoenterprises.com/index.php?sid=b9df94d5e909574a153594d1f2154148
Good luck,
Richard

 

[fordman2121]

Im running a blow-threw 2.3 turbo on propane. Still working out the kinks. I.e. I have locked timing, i need an msd yet, no wideband so im havng a hard time dialing it in. I need a boost controler yet. The engine and turbo are factory and im blowing atleast 15 psi into it( I need another boost gauge mine only goes to 15) but once it hits 8 psi its hold on, it pegs the boost gauge in a hurry then.

 

[Todd]

The plan is to try and keep the 2.9 as mine has world heads that are ported as well as ported intakes and manifolds.

With the 2.9 and 5-10 psi of boost an IMPCO 300 mixer is ideal. And just so happens I found a local complete brand new 300 conversation kit for $300. I major deal.

So now I have almost all the major components needed for my draw through turbo propane wheelin motor. Propane conversion of the correct CFM, propane tanks, turbo, waste-gate, and blow-off. But I still need timing advance for the 2.9.

If I where to move the MAP sensor vacuum tube upstream of the turbo, terminate fuel injector power leads and O2 sensor leads from the main harness, and leave all other sensors in tack, would the computer controlled advance still work?

I know the working range of the MAP is 15-20 in Mercury to 0, would the upstream vacuum of the turbo be considerably greater then this? I would think that it would be out of the MAP sensors working limits.

The speed density system calculates air density from the MAP and Intake Air Temp sensor and speed from RPM to look up fuel injector pulse to control fuel management. It uses all O2 to attain 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio. And uses the MAP sensor and RPM to look up timing advance in its tables. If I where to eliminate the IAC, Inlet air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor and just retain the MAP and necessary wiring to power the computer, dizzy and MAP would the timing advance continue to function?

In either case the computer would go into limp-mode or open loop making the fuel parameter be fixed which I could care less about as none of the stock fuel hardware will be used. Will the timing also to fixed values from the computers tables without input from the MAP and RPM?

Basically I would just like a few more to chime in and verify this will work before I cut my wiring harness to shit.

open the injector power wires when you switch your lockoff on and fuel pump off, put a switch or relay or something on the O2 sensor wire or something else used for closed loop and force it into open loop, that'll leave the spark control working, the check engine light will most likely be on since it won't be in control of the fueling...

And if none of the above can be done how can I get either mechanical of vacuum advance on the 2.9?

I found a few treads talking about 2.8 and 2.9 dizzys. But the main problem is the rotation of the camshaft of the two motors is opposite of each other. Some discussion of the gear being either swapped of flipped was noted to resolve the problem but there is no definitive proof this works. Anyone have insight?

And lastly anyone know if its possible without major bullshit to swap 2.8 dizzy guts to a 2.9 dizzy?

 

[Todd]

Just found this

Take a 2.8 distributor and take it apart. You have to remove the anchorplate from the distributor axle.
Take the 2.9 distributor apart. And make the axle the same as from the 2.8 on a milling machine.
Weld the anchorplate on the 2.9 axle and put everything in the 2.8 housing.
Now you can use your 2.8 ignition and you camgear and oilpump works.

This sound feasible?

 

[Todd]

Ok so I have done a ton of searching on the web and have found most of the info I needed. So here is the plan.

Air filter – Propane mixer – Turbo – blow off valve, routed back to air filter – stock 2.9 throttle body.

Run with stock ignition through the ECM. And if that won’t work build a custom Dura Spark dizzy.

So what do I do with my vacuum lines for my brake booster, MAP, and heater controls. With the throttle body behind the turbo this is a blow through setup with the fuel being added in front of the turbo.

So what do I do with the vac lines?

 

[Hahnsb2]

Well, for the MAP, you splice in a T fitting and a vacuum check valve, when getting into boost it will dump the pressure and not let the MAP see it. The factory check valve on the booster will be fine. For the PCV system on my Dakota I'm using a brake booster check valve inline so I don't pressurize the crankcase. Heater controls should already have a check valve too.

 

[Todd]

Thanks Hahns.

Well just ordered some mandrel bent pipe, vacuum/boost gauge, and exhaust heat wrap. Aside from that I started mocking up the engine compartment for the turbo. Had to rework the main harness to relocate the power distribution block and relays, as well as the starter relay and my extra positive leads. Came out really nice.

So in a few weeks When the exhaust pipe comes in I can get to work as I have all the rest of the parts, or can get the rest locally.

Will start a build thread when I really get to work. I know many say they want to turbo a 2.9, but this IS going to happen. And on PROPANE.

 

[Todd]

Been some time, with some progress.

Got most of all the major fab work done for the plumbing and have about 95% of the part to do this.

Last fall I got the exhaust work done, oil lines and cooler and brackets and what not and intake plumbing done. Then we had our fall bog and took it all off to run, as I wouldn't be able to get it done in time for the weekend. Since then I haven't really touched any of this project, I hit a wall for ignition. Couldn't come up with a way to make the 2.8 duraspark dizzy 2.9 friends.

Well I got a duraspark ignition system from 300 I6, and after some looking at the parts I have a plan. Its going to take some time on the lathe, but after im done I should have a 2.9 shaft and lower dizzy housing with the 300 upper housing and dizzy guts. Once I have this done its go time on this project. I want this done by the end of summer, ALL my buddys are asking when it will be done.

 

[dangerranger83]

Is it done yet?

 

[Todd]

Nope..............

Its back on the back burner. Busy again with other things and the rig has been needing some other maintinace. Ball joints, drive shaft u joints, rear axle seals, and some other stuff. And just tonight while I was dicking with her I found the rear pinion loose. Well the rear axle is out of it on jack stands waiting for me to set up the rear gears again. The inner pinion bearing spun and fawked the shims and through the backlash and contact WAY OFF. Found it in time so there is no damage to the gears.

I just need to get some more time to get the dizzy made.

 

[fordman2121]

Why not just use a msd box? Get a 6AL Programmable or a 6BTM. Then just set the dizzy in and program the MSD. Also why not go blow-threw? Youll have better throttle response and wouldnt have to worry about routing the blow-off back into the intake, also it could be intercooled and not worry about it being "full" of fuel. Just run the balance tube to the vaporiser like normal to compansate for boost.

 

[Todd]

Why not just use a msd box?

Money, the dizzy I will make and the dura spark I got will total about 10 bucks.

Also why not go blow-threw? Youll have better throttle response and wouldnt have to worry about routing the blow-off back into the intake, also it could be intercooled and not worry about it being "full" of fuel. Just run the balance tube to the vaporiser like normal to compansate for boost.

Again money, and simplicity. The setup I'm going to run has been proven to work well with the toyota and zuki guys. Also I don't have a hat for my mixer and don't have room for an intercooler.