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Welding question


David88

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I searched the forum and google, but after an hour I gave up. I need to know what I need to disconnect on my 88 Ranger in order to weld on the roof.

I plan to put a basket on and I need to weld mounting brackets to the rain rail so I can mount a custom fab basket with lights.

Also, any clue on how much weight a roof can support?
 


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Although several of us have been successful welding without disconnecting the battery, it would be advisable to disconnect it.

You should also pull any trim and headliner away from where you'll be welding. No sense starting a fire inside the cab while you're welding on the outside.

I wouldn't plan on putting hundreds of pounds up there. Remember, you don't only have to consider what the roof will support, but you're also adding weight to the highest part of the vehicle which raises your center of gravity, thus making you more at risk for tipping over.
 

88_Eddie

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the battery
 

AngryLepercon

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About the welding, ground to the closest point to where you will be welding. Ideally on the roof or the object you are welding. That way your current will not go through any mounts, battery, bearings, or the electrical system.

Disconnect the battery to be safe.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Make your tabs to grip the rail, so no welding on the truck, and your basket is removable.

Richard
 

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They sell clamp on mounts and baskets, but I wouldn't trust it not to get loose with vibration and then I have a basket, jack, tire and fuel cans flying at someone's windshield at 60mph.

Base of the basket will be square tubing with a square nut tackwelded in a rubber bushing between the tube and tabs will help with vibration noise and then a bolt runs through a hole in the tab and threads into the square nut. All I'll have to do is pull four bolts.

I'm goin to try to wire my lights into a fourway trailer connector so I can disconnect them and lift them off with the basket.
 

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I made my own mounts for a ladder rack. At the beginning there was some loosening but with locktight problems went away. Even if you weld, spread your load out along the rail at least 6" at each tab to prevent racking. Also, the rail is filled with hardened goop. Clean very well to prevent porosity in welds.
Good luck,

Richard
 

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I made my own mounts for a ladder rack. At the beginning there was some loosening but with locktight problems went away. Even if you weld, spread your load out along the rail at least 6" at each tab to prevent racking. Also, the rail is filled with hardened goop. Clean very well to prevent porosity in welds.
Good luck,

Richard
Hardened goop = seam sealer.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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snoranger

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Hardened goop is just the Canadian term, right? :D
 

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Disconnect everything... battery, computer, radio, ect.

If it can be fried don't gamble with it. Just take the extra few minutes to disconnect everything properly. And make sure that you have a good ground to the piece you're working on.
 

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Disconnect everything... battery, computer, radio, ect.

If it can be fried don't gamble with it. Just take the extra few minutes to disconnect everything properly. And make sure that you have a good ground to the piece you're working on.
I have NEVER unhooked a single thing. NEVER!!!!
And i bet ive welded more on mine then 99% of TRS.
Just saying.
 

Thed

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I have NEVER unhooked a single thing. NEVER!!!!
And i bet ive welded more on mine then 99% of TRS.
Just saying.
Some are luckier than others... I've seen a CAT tractor get it's entire electronic system replaced because of a bad ground when someone was welding on it.

I'll just play it safe, thank you.
 

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