What are you replacing old nylon fuel lines with?

[cmcfab]

I’m working on an 88’ 2.9l 4x B2 that’s been sitting for about 9years.
Replaced Fuel Tank, fuel pumps, Filters, Plugs, cleaned and rebuilt injectors and I finally got it started.
Then I reach in to make sure the crank case breather is seated correctly and I put too much pressure on the factory Nylon Fuel line at the Regulator and it springs a leak. My concern is that all the fuel lines are most likely too brittle to be safe.
Local parts stores sell standard 5/16 Rubber Fuel hose but it’s all about max 50psi. Fuel injection hose is special order.
I’ve found nylon hose bundles but I’ve read how difficult it can be to install and bend.
Other option is Steel Hard line and then rubber hose at ends to connect the fittings.
I haven’t found much about anyone replacing all the lines aside from the few doing nylon swap and using blow dryer/heat gun to press the fittings and hopefully not screw them up.

I’m thinking the easiest route is to just get a bundle of 5/16 100psi Fuel Injection hose and Injection Hose clamps and run it both for Inlet and Outlet lines.
But my concern is the lifespan of a rubber hose.

Has anyone done a full fuel line swap and what did you use?

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just put new nylon lines on my Bronco.

IMHO... the Dorman tool is the way to go when installing fittings into nylon line. It's simple and my lines are good for another couple of decades. The tool is like $70. You could always sell it when done.

 

[cmcfab]

Thanks I’ll Look into it.
Not planning on selling, kind of a keep sake.

 

[Shran]

I have yet to run into factory nylon lines that are not usable because of age...they are usually in pretty good shape unless they've been sun baked (hard to sun bake things that are under a truck.)

I personally would avoid running a lot of rubber line. Even the fuel injection stuff will shrink/crack/etc. I'd use steel or nylon if possible.

 

[BlackBII]

I also used nylon lines when I redid them all in my Ranger, worked great and no leaks or anything for 3 years now.

 

[cmcfab]

Thanks, I was thinking of running both nylon and steel.
Steel for the long runs with flared coupling and barbed ends. Then Nylon to the fittings.
My cartridge fuel filter is empty so I was thinking of eliminating the housing all together so I can run a straight line to the online pump and tank.

 

[Shran]

If you're going to that much effort then I would recommend eliminating the high pressure pump and replacing the in-tank pump with a later model high pressure unit. Then re-run your lines.

FYI, years ago we ran custom lines for my buddy's mud truck and used steel brake line and we found that there was a Chevy filter from an early 2000's Silverado 1500 that had threaded fittings and was super easy to use compared to the stock Ford filter. Then more hard line up to the engine, and short pieces of braided AN hose up to these fittings on the fuel rail:

Fragola 491986 Ford EFI .435 Inch Shank Adapter to -6AN Male

Fragola 491986 Ford EFI Return .435 Inch Shank Adapter to -6AN Male Ford EFI 0.435 Inch Shank -6AN Male

www.speedwaymotors.com

^ I'm not sure that's an exact fit for the 2.9 fuel rail as there are various sizes but it should give you a place to start. It was super slick and very easy to set up.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

You could run rubber fuel injection line, one Bronco II I had years ago someone had done that. I can’t remember if I did anything about it or not now, but I only had it like 2 years and sold it (wish I wouldn’t have). My 92 Ranger had rubber line that someone did and the dumb stuff pinholed all over after I got it. I was in a bind at the time and needed it up ASAP so I just threw some rubber line on that I had here (I usually only buy fuel injection line, so that should have been what it was) and bent up some aluminum hard line. Worked just fine up until the truck got wrecked. Well, I guess it still works fine because it hasn’t leaked and the truck still starts, lol.

I keep aluminum tubing (Summit Racing) and Ni-copper brake line on hand in a couple different sizes for plumbing stuff anymore. Might try stainless again. Not a big fan of steel tubing here, we have some real rust problems.

New nylon line and the Dorman tool would definitely work.

I agree though with the guys that say if you’re doing all new lines, why not just do a single high pressure fuel pump. My 88 still has the dual pumps, but that may potentially change yet.

My green 2000 Ranger, in doing the engine swap, I couldn’t get the fuel line separated at the rail. I played with it a good while and used about all the tricks I’ve learned for them and still no joy so I pulled the line from the fuel filter up with the engine and fuel rail. Didn’t know if the donor Explorer line would have fit or not and didn’t want to fight with it so I just used some -6 AN PTFE braided line and fittings to build a new line from the filter up. That worked out rather well, well enough that I may just do -6 AN (3/8”) for any of the stuff I replace.

 

[mikkelstuff]

I used brand name fuel injection hose for as much as I could reach without removing the fuel tank on my 2002 Ranger. I positively hate that nylon fuel line crap!

 

[cmcfab]

I just recently replaced the Tank and both fuel pumps. So I’m just gonna keep them in until I figure the route I’m going to take with this B2.
If I go with Hardline to Injection hose then I will probably eliminate the Cartridge filter housing just to have less fittings to worry about.

 

[cmcfab]

I was researching steel/zinc plated lines, about $30 for 25ft. Roll Amazon. My only concern is that it’s 5/16 OD not ID.
I can’t seem to find 5/16 ID steel lines.

Do you think 5/16 OD instead of ID is a big concern?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I was researching steel/zinc plated lines, about $30 for 25ft. Roll Amazon. My only concern is that it’s 5/16 OD not ID.
I can’t seem to find 5/16 ID steel lines.

Do you think 5/16 OD instead of ID is a big concern?

If it was me, I’d just go to 3/8” and use stainless, aluminum, or Ni-copper if you want hard line. I’m not a fan of only getting a couple years at best out of steel line here. 3/8” line isn’t big enough to cause any problems. I was worried about it, but most -AN fuel line fittings are for 3/8” so there wasn’t much choice for me. Didn’t seem to bother my 2000 Ranger so far so I’m a lot less concerned about it now.

 

[RonD]

Up thru 1997 Ranger or BII used max 45psi fuel pressure, 35psi running pressure, so the 50psi rubber hose is fine to use, but I wouldn't

Nylon is better, lasts longer and can be heated and bent to hold shape, and is cheaper for car makers to use, same as the hard plastic vacuum lines they use now, but these can also be colored to make assembly easier, lol

You can get 5/16 nylon line with or without steel braid by the foot or can added it for engine bay fuel lines

Google: home made nylon fuel line tool

Loads of good ideas for us frugal(cheap) DIYers

 

[franklin2]

I will probably eliminate the Cartridge filter housing just to have less fittings to worry about.

Are you talking about the large round black housing mounted on the frame? Ford calls that the "fuel reservoir". From the name of that part, you can get a big hint that it does more than just hold a fuel filter inside it. I would not get rid of it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I agree with @franklin2

You kept the two pump system... Ford put the reservoir in to keep a supply for the high pressure pump.

IMHO... all that stuff should have just been pitched.

I did just that...

All the details are in the G-Unit build thread.