What oil weight do you recommend for a 3.0 V6 with 120K miles

[barrys]

I see more variance than that on the gauge which might be due to something else that I don't understand. But, I see fluctuation between the "R" and the "A" in NORMAL as I drive. It could just be an aging guage. Why would they even put a guage in if it's just a binary (switch) sender? That's interesting.

Anyone have any comments on the gas mileage? Even a comment that said that I've got a vivid imagination would be fine.

 

[Big Jim M]

My 110K 2001 WRANGLER

I see more variance than that on the gauge which might be due to something else that I don't understand. But, I see fluctuation between the "R" and the "A" in NORMAL as I drive. It could just be an aging guage. Why would they even put a guage in if it's just a binary (switch) sender? That's interesting.

Anyone have any comments on the gas mileage? Even a comment that said that I've got a vivid imagination would be fine.

Has 10W40 in it from the first oil change.. The reason is the first guy that owned it had a company with mechanics and all diesel trucks. His mechanics just put the company oil in the engine at every oil change.. So 10W40 it was.

My fuel economy is at are above other Wranglers of the same vintage. I highly doubt the loss of milage between 30W and 40W would be seeable under normal circumstances.

Of course I do understand guys changing and THINKING they could see a difference. But I doubt their accuracy.

Big JIm

 

[cbxer55]

I've used 20W-50 Valvoline semi-synthetic since day one back in Jan 2002. Never had a lick of trouble with it. I prefer thicker oil, especially once an engine has some miles on it and the tolerances get a bit looser. Since my warranty is long over, I do not care what the manual or ford say about the issue. 20W-50 until the end for me.

Unless you live in some area where the temps get below about -20, you will not have a problem. You might get a "little" better mileage on 5W-30, but I cannot stand pouring colored water into my engine. And thats what 5W-30 looks like to me.

Being I live in Oklahoma. it does get down in the teens during the winter. Never heard a peep out of my engine in the morning. Also I usually go out and start it. Lock the doors, then come back inside and finish getting ready for work. Then when I do go out some 8 to 10 minutes later, the heater is nice and comfy.

I also use the same oil in my wifes 98 Taurus 3.0 DOHC, and have for over 200,000 miles. Not a problem or even a hint of a problem. I also use 20W-50 in both our motorcycles, and have used 20W-50 in every vehicle I have ever owned for over 32 years. I've never had to rebuild a motor yet, and have put 240,000 on a 1980 Datsun 280ZX, 200,000 (so far) on a 98 Taurus 3.0 DOHC, 104,000 on my 98 3.0 automatic Ranger, 180,000 on a 1978 Pontiac Firebird Trans-Am, etc.

20W-50 has never caused me any problems, and I have always lived in areas where the winter time temps get down in the teens or single digits. Hence, I will forever more, use 20W-50 in all my vehicles.

Again, y'all can keep your colored water.

PS, I do my own oil changes because not a one of the "quickie" shops around here even bother to have 10W-40 anymore. Most of them go up to 10W-30, and that will never see time in any vehicle I own. I usually take it for 30 minute drive to get nice and hot. Pull the plug and filter and let it sit for about 30 minutes while I eat a sammich. New filter, refill and I'm on the way.

 

[barrys]

I do not want to restart the age old oil argument -- especially not the synthetic Vs. dino. I should probably start a new thread on this.

I have one simple question:
Can decreasing the oil viscosity decrease the gas mileage?

 

[cbxer55]

I do not want to restart the age old oil argument -- especially not the synthetic Vs. dino. I should probably start a new thread on this.

I have one simple question:
Can decreasing the oil viscosity decrease the gas mileage?

NO. Most of the reason that manufactureres went to such low weight colored water for oil was to meet CAFE standards. Corporate Average Fuel Efficiency requires they get the most out of the little-engined vehicles, to compensate for the huge dinosaurs they also sell. When it got to the point they could no longer wring more mileage out of them mechanically, they started "requiring" thinner oil, as it does increase mileage by a small amount.

Run what you brung. You run thin stuff, I'll run thick.

 

[barrys]

That's exactly what I thought.

Based on this thread and about a million others I've read, it seems that in my area,
impact of switching from 10X40 to 5X30 is not going to matter much.

A car fanatic friend told me about how some car company switched from 90 to 20 weight oil in the rear diff to get some small decimal fraction of an MPG increase and then got to pay for a bunch of new diffs...

To me, "10W40 is truck oil." I don't know why I think that. Maybe too much acid in the 60's even though I was only 3 years old...

 

[cbxer55]

That's exactly what I thought.

Based on this thread and about a million others I've read, it seems that in my area,
impact of switching from 10X40 to 5X30 is not going to matter much.

A car fanatic friend told me about how some car company switched from 90 to 20 weight oil in the rear diff to get some small decimal fraction of an MPG increase and then got to pay for a bunch of new diffs...

To me, "10W40 is truck oil." I don't know why I think that. Maybe too much acid in the 60's even though I was only 3 years old...

I worked at Chief Auto Parts back in the early 80s, for about 3 years. Our biggest seller was Castrol 10W-40, followed by 20W-50. Sold cases and cases and cases of the stuff.

Frankly, based on my 32 years and hundreds of thousands of miles using nothing but 20W-50, I doubt you will ever have a problem sticking with 10W-40. I don't have a chart in front of me, but seem to recall 10W-40 being good down to like -20 degrees, with 20W-50 good down to -10.

And anyways, if you live in an environment that gets that cold, you are best off having a block heater, of dipstick heater anyhow. I have a friend who lives in SE Wyoming, and all of his vehicles are so equipped. Therefore there would be no reason to go down to 5W-30 anyways, as the oil is always warm.

So stick with your "truck oil". And I'll stick with my "heavy duty truck oil". 10W-40 is not going to kill your engine, just as 20W-50 has never killed any of mine.

 

[2wdmuddin]

honestly what i would put in it is motorcraft synthetic blend 10w-30. thats what ive had in my 94 since i got it almost 2 years ago. it had 150,00 when i got it now im at about 187,000 and i can tell a difference in better performance.

 

[Tader82]

i run 5w-30 in my 00 and have 190k on it. i use royal purple from the engine to the rear end, i have better then stock compression (i did a port and polish job and decked the head a little when i first bout the truck lol i cant leave anything stock hehe) i have to say royal purple is the best hands down i have build and raced roundy round cars and lost oil cooler lines with this stuff in the motor and finished the race with no oil and seen little to no damage to the block, and the bearings were a little scuffed up but crank and cam were still in good shape. i live and die by royal purple now

 

[barrys]

I've never heard of royal purple but that sure is a good sales pitch. I'll look into that.
I was also a bit worried if I would hurt the motor by going to a lighter oil which would obviously provide less friction protection. But, I change every 3k so what the hell.

I do love yapping on TheRangerStation. I always know that any oil questions spark a nice rap with lots of interesting info.

 

[Tader82]

royal purple is a Texas company and is used on Trucks!, Extreme 4x4, Horse Power, and so on. i have played with all the oil out there and i have seen the dyno test with this stuff on a 97 Camaro and they pulled 2hp out of just switching to this stuff no other oil i have seen has give a real dyno numbers

 

[barrys]

With the Royal Purple, it's synthetic only, right? How many miles do you run on it before a change? My guess is you drive hard based on the fact that you ported the heads on your new ride which is ballsy. 190K is pretty high mileage for a 2000. Is it mostly highway driving?

 

[Tader82]

royal purple is a 12k mile oil life but seens i live in south texas on the coast in farm land i have to change it every 5k i basicly leave in what is called a Sever Serves area the serves life of all things is greatly reduced, and yes and no to the high way miles i got the truck from my ant with 5k on it and drove it up to wyoming to go to school (yes i went to Wyotech no i will not fix your Geo, OK) lol the truck has seen the same amount of dirt as asphalt, i have moved 3 ton loads on it and race anything that will race me even if i know i will lose i love the hell out of this little truck it was the first thing i REALLY modded and put my own money in to

 

[exbass94]

I've never heard of royal purple but that sure is a good sales pitch. I'll look into that.
I was also a bit worried if I would hurt the motor by going to a lighter oil which would obviously provide less friction protection. But, I change every 3k so what the hell.

I do love yapping on TheRangerStation. I always know that any oil questions spark a nice rap with lots of interesting info.

If you like interesting oil discussions go to bobistheoilguy.com. Tons of info from people who really know what they're talking about, including a bunch of people who actually work/worked for oil companies.

 

[Shawnski]

I am no expert, but I too use the Manufactures recommended oil wieght by season and change intervals...in the case of my '05 Ranger, I use 5-20 semi-syenthetic. While Motocraft is priced well, I use Fleet/Farm branded for even less money. I always use Motorcraft filters. If I recall Ford researched and concluded that by using a hybrid semi-syn they were able to lower the weight while still maintaining relative heat stability compared to a 5-30 dino, and have a lighter more fuel efficient oil...the plus here is at the scale Ford sells vehicles, their semi-syn is very affordable.

I have built and raced several SBF's. My most current motor has a 7-qt pan and std. pressure oil pump and a std. factory tolarances on the mains. I run a synthetic for the very same reasons that Ford and other engine builders have tested and proved; you can run a lower weight syn that makes cold starts less harmful and make more HP because its thiner, yet have the heat resistance of a higher weight Dino oil.

I also run syn diff (Amsoil Sever duty) and trans fluid (Mobil 1) for less friction on all my vehicles.