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2.3 turbo swap. Any advice?


scotts90ranger

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Sounds fine, I have a Ranger throttle I'll swap to one day and noticed it had a line to the charcoal canister, you are correct about the lines, plug the one you don't need...

On the IAC, it doesn't matter if it's turned, you could use the Ranger one too I think.
 


Turbroke

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Scott, could you tell me how to ground the unused DIS coil pack again when you get a minute? I still can't quite figure out which wires have to be grounded. I'm posting a pic this time; I don't think our wires are the same color. Also, posting a pic of my DIS mount. You said it has to be grounded, and I want to make sure what I've done is sufficient. The bracket is the only ground in my setup and the blue wire will be used to ground the DIS coil pack wires. I'm wondering if I can use the unused coil pack as a spare. Are the coil packs interchangeable that way?
 

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Turbroke

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I started her tonight for the first time. Ran like crazy!!! Really appreciate all the help from y'all on the forum...especially scotts90ranger. You guys made this project a pleasure. Here's another question. I'm not getting an oil pressure reading @ the gauge. I know I have pressure, but no reading. Any ideas?
 

scotts90ranger

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Did you hook up the sender wire? that's the one wire sensor just behind the intake manifold that threads into the tee in the oil line going to the turbo. that sender is just an idiot switch, anything over like 5psi and it'll show normal. There's a way to fix that with a sender out of I think a '78 F series truck and bypassing a resistor in the back of the gauge cluster, but I haven't gone that far and just ran a mechanical gauge...

Don't know how I missed your last post... yes, the coil packs are the same, so keep it as a spare.

Glad I was able to help out, that's what I'm here for, just trying to repay what the guys I've learned from did for me, in a way this place has helped me learn engines enough to tune engines for a living (that and an engineering degree and a good engineering mindset :)). If it wasn't for guys like DaveR, BillG, George, AllanD, Redshred, and many others (it's been almost 15 years, I know there's names I forgot...) my Ranger wouldn't be what it is today.
 

Turbroke

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I had a notion that you had an engineering background. It shows in some of your explanations. Maybe you have a better idea on the current issue than me. My #2 and #3 cylinders are not firing. I have spark, but not getting fuel to those two. (Didn't pull the plugs, but there is no gasoline smell in the exhaust) I know it's unlikely that both injectors are bad, and that they occupy EEC pin number 58 or 59 (injector bank B) on the LA3, but beyond that I'm somewhat at a loss.:icon_confused: Just wondering if you see anything obvious being overlooked here before I go tearing into the injectors or the computer pin connector as those are the only two sources I can come up with for my dilemma.
 
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scotts90ranger

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Yeah, I calibrate engines at work and help with service, actually heading to Tennessee in the morning (Driving from Memphis to Union City...) for work to help a customer... leaving saturday, if you're in the Memphis area I might have a few free hours Saturday morning... I know how to talk many types of people through their issues, which I've been working on over the last few years, the forums have helped with that too...

Those two injectors are tied together at the ECM, they should share power with 1 and 4 so I doubt that is the problem, more likely the pin in the ECM is in the wrong place or the wire has a break in it or something (if it was grounded the injectors would be open all the time). It's possible that the injectors are stuck shut, I've seen it before, popping them with 12V will usually help them out but sometimes they need to have solvent in them to do it... I'm not sure what else it could be, maybe the crank sensor but that's somewhat far fetched...
 

Turbroke

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Yeah, I calibrate engines at work and help with service, actually heading to Tennessee in the morning (Driving from Memphis to Union City...) for work to help a customer... leaving saturday, if you're in the Memphis area I might have a few free hours Saturday morning... I know how to talk many types of people through their issues, which I've been working on over the last few years, the forums have helped with that too...

Those two injectors are tied together at the ECM, they should share power with 1 and 4 so I doubt that is the problem, more likely the pin in the ECM is in the wrong place or the wire has a break in it or something (if it was grounded the injectors would be open all the time). It's possible that the injectors are stuck shut, I've seen it before, popping them with 12V will usually help them out but sometimes they need to have solvent in them to do it... I'm not sure what else it could be, maybe the crank sensor but that's somewhat far fetched...
Right again Scott! I pulled the injectors and did the AAA battery and carb cleaner in a syringe trick on each and lo and behold...2 and 3 are stuck closed. (Big sigh of relief) I'm soaking the tips in carb/choke cleaner and praying. I'm kinda' scared that applying 12v to them will fry the insulation. Just glad I know what the problem is @ this point.
 

Turbroke

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And so it was. The gods of gas powered machinery looked upon their poor servant and took pity upon him having found satisfaction in his generous sweat and blood offerings, while overlooking his occasional, blasphemous outbursts when he stumbled in his faith. :icon_twisted: YUP! It's running. LOL:headbang: All four and have the added benefit of having SUPER clean fuel injectors.
 

1989rangerob

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heck yea man! mines next
 

Turbroke

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heck yea man! mines next
Go for it rangerbob! I like it a bunch; worth ever bit of $ and effort. Anyone have suggestions for good, universal spark plug wire sets that are reasonably priced?
 
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scotts90ranger

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For plug wires, I just got a standard Ranger set and made two sets out of one by matching the lengths and recrimping the ends.
 

Turbroke

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Still getting that miss at WOT after a full tank of premium, air leak check and dry gas. It's kind of a bummer going up steep grades. I'm beginning to suspect the Ranger throttle I used. May be a long shot, but it's the only "foreign" component on the engine and it is somewhat different than my TC throttle. Not by much, but different. We'll see tomorrow.
 

scotts90ranger

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As long as everything that's plugged stays plugged the throttle shouldn't make a difference, all it uses the TPS sensor for if I understand correctly is at a low position it tells the IAC to work, and above 75-80% throttle it puts it in power enrichment
 

Turbroke

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As long as everything that's plugged stays plugged the throttle shouldn't make a difference, all it uses the TPS sensor for if I understand correctly is at a low position it tells the IAC to work, and above 75-80% throttle it puts it in power enrichment
I turned my IAC 180 degrees to make it fit, but realize that's not the problem. The ranger throttle does have the charcoal canister hooked into it and an additional vac line that I've plugged up, (maybe it doesn't like the canister line?) and I do suspect the power enrichment mode may not be kicking in. That's where my problem starts; at 75-80% throttle the motor begins lurching as if it's lacking for enough fuel or air. A side note: the stock TC intake had copious amounts of hard, soot/carbon buildup on the intake side of it I never that I didn't notice until last night when I got it out of my parts bin...I'm talking caked on, 1/16" deep. Is that indicative of some other sort of problem?
 
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scotts90ranger

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that carbon buildup is from the EGR, not a huge issue, a lot of times the EGR port in the intake manifold will be completely plugged...

Just a question, in your other thread you mentioned engine rpm, is your stock tach working? If yours is working I must have moved a wire wrong or something as mine hasn't worked since I got the engine running...
 

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