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2.8 bogs and won't go over 58 MPH


rusty ol ranger

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Does the 2.8 use fiber timing gears like the later 300's? Its rare but i have heard of them slipping (on 300's)

The low compression readings on all 6 that seemed to happen quickly kinda screams valve timing....atleast to me.
 


bobbywalter

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Does the 2.8 use fiber timing gears like the later 300's? Its rare but i have heard of them slipping (on 300's)

The low compression readings on all 6 that seemed to happen quickly kinda screams valve timing....atleast to me.

yes. valve events are next.
 

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Jim Oaks

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I swapped out the fuel pump, cap, rotor, and plugs. No change.

I guess I'll try to adjust the timing once I figure out how to get to the distributor bolt.

I'm getting beyond frustrated with this thing. I just want to get it running good again so I can get it out of my life.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I swapped out the fuel pump, cap, rotor, and plugs. No change.

I guess I'll try to adjust the timing once I figure out how to get to the distributor bolt.

I'm getting beyond frustrated with this thing. I just want to get it running good again so I can get it out of my life.
The last time I heard a guy say that he V8 swapped it and put the 2.8 where it belongs in the back of his corn crib...

FWIW it had enough blow by it would push the dipstick out and spray the exhaust manifold with oil. Stank to high heaven. Still started and drove fine.

Agree with checking the timing. Check for vacuum leaks too.
 

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I've wondered if the valves aren't closing all the way resulting in the low compression and the engine running bad.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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If there was only a way you could test for valves not closing all the way. Maybe like someone suggested after the low compression, a leak down test?

How did it run before you rebuilt the carburetor?
 

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Ran like crap. Accelerator pump leaked. Ran great for about 3-months after I rebuilt it.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Ran like crap. Accelerator pump leaked. Ran great for about 3-months after I rebuilt it.
I still think a timing gear slipped
 

85_Ranger4x4

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If there was only a way you could test for valves not closing all the way. Maybe like someone suggested after the low compression, a leak down test?

How did it run before you rebuilt the carburetor?
Valves are adjustable too. If one is way loose it would not be closing but then you would have no compression rather than low compression.
 

Uncle Gump

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Valves are adjustable too. If one is way loose it would not be closing but then you would have no compression rather than low compression.
If it was loose... it wouldn't be opening all the way.

If the valves aren't closing all the way... zero compression
 
Last edited:

85_Ranger4x4

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If it was loose... it wouldn't be opening all the way.

If the valves aren't closing all the... zero compression
My angle was if a valve wasn't closing when you went to adjust it the setting would be loose. Like probably way loose.
 

bobbywalter

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so the distribultor gear is perfect? they like to eat those.


if so..



yeah....valve events.


pull the covers and plugs...and basically degree it in. make damn sure that tdc is tdc and the valve events are on.

from there assuming you have a mag base or fixture....can just use bracket bar or whatever....valve events.
 

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