89 BrII to 92 4.0

[89RanBrII]

So I just bought an 89 BrII without an engine, a 92 explorer w/o a dash,an M50D and a bare bones 4.0 . I would like to put the engine out of the explorer in the BrII but I don't if it runs and i don't know how to test if it runs without the dash wiring? I also have a 2.9 out of a ranger that was frontended, no clue if it runs. The 4.0 is a used shortblock. Does anyone have any ideas about wiring? What I really want right now is a way to test if the explorer engine works... without the dash wiring. Both vehicles are currently automatics.

 

[franklin2]

You might as well get into the wiring on the explorer, studying the diagrams for it and learning about what does what. Then you should be able to jump some wires here and there to get it to start. You need this experience in the wiring to be successful at a 4.0 swap. It's a lot of wiring.

 

[89RanBrII]

So looking at 94 ex' wiring diagrams... It looks like I can hot wire the PCM Relay in the distribution box and then hotwire the start relay and it should run. Unless the 94 is too different from the 92

 

[RonD]

1992 has no dash but does it still have the ignition switch under the steering column or hanging down?

It is just a slider switch has ACC, OFF, RUN, START, start is spring loaded, so you have to hold it, but it will stay in RUN
If thats there then easy peasy no jumping needed


Reason being is that jumping the EEC/PCM relay will get computer and Spark module to boot up but not the coil pack, that was powered by ignition switch key ON(run)

You could jumper coil pack's Red/green wire with 12v

Yes, on the starter relay(solenoid) pull off the red/blue wire from its smaller "S" post, and then jumper that post with 12v and that will activate the relay and starter motor

Gas in the tank?
If its older than 6 months then its not gasoline any more, lol, I would disconnect fuel pump relay so you don't pump any of it into the fuel rail
Just spray good gas or ether into the intake to start and keep it running

 

[89RanBrII]

1992 has no dash but does it still have the ignition switch under the steering column or hanging down?

The dash wiring is gone as well
I was thinking I would just hot wire the pin from the ignition

 

[RonD]

Yes, then jumper EEC/PCM relay and hot wire coils Red wire

Make sure there is some oil in the engine and as said if gas is old pull fuel pump relay, the green one
And feed in gas/fuel manually

 

[89RanBrII]

So will the ignition run wire (RED/LT GRN) not put power to the red wire?

 

[RonD]

Yes, if you have access to that wire
But it will also turn on the EEC/PCM relay so no need to jump it

 

[89RanBrII]

So it runs, I tested it this afternoon and it purrs likely a cat
Wiring question: Do I change the headlight harness and move the BWP pins or keep the BrII HL harness and fix individual pins...?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Headlight harness shouldn’t need to change, but you’ll need the engine harness and computer for the 4.0 and have to do a little splicing

 

[89RanBrII]

Thanks
Hopefully I will get started on it this week. I have to finish doing a little body work on my ranger and then on to the Brll!

 

[89RanBrII]

Well I got my leaf spring perches yesterday. I am wondering if I should put them on the same angle as they were on the explorer or if I should tilt it up a little for the Brll?

 

[Shran]

Welcome from across the border!

I would measure your pinion angle on the B2 and make the perches on your new axle match that. I have found that 6 degrees seems to be a normal number for Rangers but I'm not sure on the B2, might be the same.

 

[franklin2]

Bronco II is closer to 9 degrees. In other words, the rear u-joint is pretty much straight with hardly any angle to it, and all the angle is taken care of by the special double cardan joint at the transfer case.

The BII has a different rear axle. The leaf springs are mounted at a different width, and the perches are welded on to achieve the 9 degree pinion angle. I tried to force a ranger axle under mine. I did it, but the leaf springs were really twisted. I ended up cutting the old perches off, and found trailer ones from tractor supply fit perfectly. I installed them without welding them, got the axle centered and the pinion angle correct with the BII weight on the rear axle, and then I welded them in place. Been working good for several years now.

 

[bobbywalter]

Bronco II is closer to 9 degrees. In other words, the rear u-joint is pretty much straight with hardly any angle to it, and all the angle is taken care of by the special double cardan joint at the transfer case.

The BII has a different rear axle. The leaf springs are mounted at a different width, and the perches are welded on to achieve the 9 degree pinion angle. I tried to force a ranger axle under mine. I did it, but the leaf springs were really twisted. I ended up cutting the old perches off, and found trailer ones from tractor supply fit perfectly. I installed them without welding them, got the axle centered and the pinion angle correct with the BII weight on the rear axle, and then I welded them in place. Been working good for several years now.

this....


for sure its easier to live with a b2 axle under a ranger then a ranger axle under a b2...in regards to spring bind and rake....but if you have the large gas tank skidplate in an extended cab it likes to rub full droop with the b2 axle....but you can get by with it in a jam.




there is variance on the perches regardless.... 5-10 degrees depending on what you are working with.