95 Ford Ranger 3.0 Manual 4x2 Transmission Replacement

[greg95Ranger]

My Ranger has run great for years, but recently developed a loud knock which seems to be coming from the transmission. I know it is not the clutch, as I already took it to a shop which said the noise was from the clutch and they replaced the clutch. But it did not help at all. The clutch was actually running fine before.

I made a video of the sound here

I took it to Aamco and they said it would cost between 2 -3.5 K to fix which is definably above my budget of zero dollars.

I have read the Transmission Diagnosing section of this site, and my tranny fits none of those: It actually works great except for the slow knock. And strangely, once it gets to fourth gear, there is no more knock. I can still drive it just fine, but it is painful to hear the knock which sounds like a hammer hitting metal every few seconds. (watch the video and you will hear it loud and clear).

So my plan is to go to my local Pick Your Part and get a replacement and drop it in. I have checked, and the tranny is available for about $350 which seems reasonable.

I have never done a transmission replacement, but the video I watched on YouTube made it look like it is not all that difficult.

I have a way to lift the vehicle, and I will get a jack stand from my local harbor freight and I have the general hand tools. I have already ordered the special high pressure quick release tool for that.

So, I think I am all set. Before I dive in, any suggestions or advice?

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, it does sound like transmission noise, but never heard that noise before

Yes, its just wrench work to swap a transmission, especially a Manual, no special tools or knowledge, just common sense, lol

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) model transmission, used from 1988 thru 2011 in ALL Rangers and Mazda B-series
Model is a key word, as the M5R1's are all engine specific and drive specific, and some years require specific versions

You need a 3.0l M5R1 and a 2WD version, also 1991-1997 version so it has the Speedometer hole and gear needed in 1995, well needed 1991-1997, lol

M5R1 from a 4.0l or 2.3l won't work, or a 4x4 version
1998 and up won't have the speedometer hole and gear, although you can swap over your tail shaft housing and gear to a later model M5R1, just 6 bolts, not hard to do

Between the engine and transmission is a thin plate called a "block plate" or separator plate, remember to reinstall that
There are 2 alignment dowels or sleeves, one on each side, these are there to center/align the crank shaft and input shaft(of trans) so they spin true
After all the bolts are out you need to wiggle the trans to get these to release as they are, and should, be a very tight fit, or the alignment would be off
If you can get a gap between engine and trans a screwdriver or pry bar can be used to slide trans back away from the dowels, they usually stay in the engine side, by can stay in trans side, doesn't matter
Dowels are in the lower side bolts as sleeves or near them as dowels

 

[fixizin]

Err, umm, your title says 4x2, but in your video I can clearly the 4x4 selector knob????
You sure there's not a transfer case hiding under there?

 

[superj]

that would be a nice surprise. i would love to go under mine and find a hidden tranfer case and associated 4x4 stuff.

 

[greg95Ranger]

Err, umm, your title says 4x2, but in your video I can clearly the 4x4 selector knob????
You sure there's not a transfer case hiding under there?

You are right that the video shows a 4x4 selector knob, but that is because I replaced the plastic panel around the radio a few years ago, and the 4x4 was the only one I could find at the time. For sure it is a 4x2.

 

[greg95Ranger]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, it does sound like transmission noise, but never heard that noise before

Yes, its just wrench work to swap a transmission, especially a Manual, no special tools or knowledge, just common sense, lol

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) model transmission, used from 1988 thru 2011 in ALL Rangers and Mazda B-series
Model is a key word, as the M5R1's are all engine specific and drive specific, and some years require specific versions

You need a 3.0l M5R1 and a 2WD version, also 1991-1997 version so it has the Speedometer hole and gear needed in 1995, well needed 1991-1997, lol

M5R1 from a 4.0l or 2.3l won't work, or a 4x4 version
1998 and up won't have the speedometer hole and gear, although you can swap over your tail shaft housing and gear to a later model M5R1, just 6 bolts, not hard to do

Between the engine and transmission is a thin plate called a "block plate" or separator plate, remember to reinstall that
There are 2 alignment dowels or sleeves, one on each side, these are there to center/align the crank shaft and input shaft(of trans) so they spin true
After all the bolts are out you need to wiggle the trans to get these to release as they are, and should, be a very tight fit, or the alignment would be off
If you can get a gap between engine and trans a screwdriver or pry bar can be used to slide trans back away from the dowels, they usually stay in the engine side, by can stay in trans side, doesn't matter
Dowels are in the lower side bolts as sleeves or near them as dowels

Thank you so much for the details on this, it is very helpful. I went to Pick Your Part, but they did not have any 4x2 3.0 manual transmission, but I just found a used one locally for $400 with a 100 day warranty I am going to go pick up.

 

[pjtoledo]

I find using a couple guide bolts helps with alignment going both off and on.
pull 2 lower bell housing bolts and insert these.
12mm x 1.75 x 100mm length. cut the heads off and file/grind flats.

a couple bolts may be easier to get to if you use a 24" extension which puts your ratchet/bar at the back of the transmission.

 

[Josh B]

I'd recommend getting at least two jacks and 2 jack stands, those Ford factory jacks are great for working on a flat spot and doing transmissions (mostly just for holding it up, along with a jack stand) that gives you two front supports on each side, be sure to block the rear wheels too.
You might also watch for Mazda pick-ups of the years you are looking at for your replacement
Good luck with it man, and make safety a priority

Those jackstand ideas were mostly for your place, not the wrecking yard. You want to be safe there too tho. The yards here use 2 steel rims welded together and block up each vehicle with 4 of those

 

[greg95Ranger]

I find using a couple guide bolts helps with alignment going both off and on.
pull 2 lower bell housing bolts and insert these.
12mm x 1.75 x 100mm length. cut the heads off and file/grind flats.

a couple bolts may be easier to get to if you use a 24" extension which puts your ratchet/bar at the back of the transmission.

Great, thank you. The bolts and extension are both on order and will be here in two days

 

[greg95Ranger]

The yards here use 2 steel rims welded together and block up each vehicle with 4 of those

I saw some of those at the Pick Your Part, but I didn't realize they were welded together. They seem pretty flimsy to me, but I shook a couple of the Trucks just to be sure and they seemed pretty solid.

 

[don4331]

Do you have the requisite 12mm 12pt socket to undo the driveshaft from the rear axle? (Will need to be 1/2" drive and you will need to have eaten your Wheaties as the bolts are Loctite in place.

When the transmission is in 4th; power is going directly from input to output (no intermediate gears). So, it would suggest a countershaft issue. But the frequency of the noise doesn't match what I would have expected.

Dumb question: Does the transmission have oil? M5ODR-1 has bad rep for leaking out the rubber plugs for the shifter.​

​

I actually prefer just ramps (2 pairs - front and rear) over jack stands for swapping manual in Ranger - I don't use a transmission jack, just lift it out/in and ramps keep it from being too high; truck is way more stable sitting on all 4 tires.

I also go to muffler shop and have them undo the exhaust at the exhaust manifolds (then do it back up). Installing the transmission is sooo much easier if you can lower the exhaust out of the way. The cost is well worth reduced frustration for me.

My version of the quick release tool is a small straight blade screwdriver.

Rocking back and forth from output end usually helps slide off the locating dowels; as it has been apart for the clutch, it should come apart again fairly easy. The bolts suggested by @pjtoledo are capital idea (I have a pair too)

Remember to undo/redo the electrical.

Those would be my suggestions.

 

[greg95Ranger]

Do you have the requisite 12mm 12pt socket to undo the driveshaft from the rear axle?

I checked and I did not, so that is now on order.

​

​

Dumb question: Does the transmission have oil?​

​

​

I did check the transmission oil level and actually I changed it to fresh about two weeks ago. The oil level was full, and the color of it was very good - it was the color of fresh engine oil (ie gold colored, not black or dirty). I replaced it with red Mercon V. I thought it was strange that the original color was completely different from the red Mercon V.

I actually prefer just ramps (2 pairs - front and rear) over jack stands for swapping manual in Ranger - I don't use a transmission jack, just lift it out/in and ramps keep it from being too high; truck is way more stable sitting on all 4 tires.

I made two sets of wooden wheel cribs like the below for the front tires, and then two 6 ton jack stands on the back and it is plenty high and very stable.

I also go to muffler shop and have them undo the exhaust at the exhaust manifolds (then do it back up). Installing the transmission is sooo much easier if you can lower the exhaust out of the way. The cost is well worth reduced frustration for me.

Great idea, I think I will do this also.

Thank you so much for the suggestions

 

[pjtoledo]

on my cribs I drilled vertical holes at the corners and ran threaded rod top to bottom with large washers.
keeps them good 'n tight and allows for height adjustment.

 

[Josh B]

I've had mine off a dozen times and never even heard of a 12 point
Ahhh, that's a double 6 point eh

 

[greg95Ranger]

on my cribs I drilled vertical holes at the corners and ran threaded rod top to bottom with large washers.
keeps them good 'n tight and allows for height adjustment.

Great idea!